Primer

Some folks have good luck with rattle can primers. I have not. I airbrush primer like any other paint. Specifically, I use Testors Model Master enamel primer. I have had good luck with these, but I am considering trying Mr Surfacer...if I can find some.

From what you are describing, I would say that your putting on the coats too thick. Try several lighter coats, then one big one. Keep the can moving across the parts so you avoid any paint build up and don't spray too close to the parts. Practice on some scrap styrene or something of similar non-poreous surface properties.

Why not try automotive primer lacquer base? It is cheaper and stronger.

QUOTE: Originally posted by beSeen Why not try automotive primer lacquer base? It is cheaper and stronger.

I don't think it's the "type" of primer. Rather, it's a question of application technique...

Thanks to all!

Is it possible that the primer could attack the plastic?

Cheers,

Jürgen

I usually use Krylon's grey spray can primer. I find that I can get a pretty even finish with multiple light coats. Though I must admit I prefer the finish of an airbrushed primer. I'm waiting for some primer to arrive from a mail order shop and then I'll get back to more airbrushed primer.

As for getting the most out of your spray primer -
1) float the rattle can in a sink full of warm water -- warm, not hot. They function best at slightly above room temperature. Another way to do this is to just put it in your arm pit for a while.
2) Shake like a mad man. 2 minutes solid before you even start painting. Then after each series of "swipes" of the can, give it another shake or two
3) Paint in a swiping motion about a foot away from the kit. You want a thin coat, so move the can fairly quickly. There's no need to keep the paint flowing all the time-- you basically want to paint the swipes in a single direction, stopping the spray while you bring your army back. You want a rapid fire "sheet!... sheet!... sheet!" effect.
4) After you've got it mostly covered, stop and let it dry/cure for the time it recommends between coats on the can or longer.
5) Repeat the process to put on another thin coat. Multiple thin coats are way better than one thick coat. if you can still see some of the plastic colour after your first coat, that's fine-- get it with the second. If you put on too much you'll obscure detail or get a chalky finish.

I never face any problem airbrushing automotive primer. It did not eat plastic model, stick very strong. Trial & error at scrap plastic should be done to achieve what is the best result for you.

I use the tamiya stuff from a rattle can. At first it scared me because it was so thin, but I found the thin coat to be as smooth as a baby's bottom. So far I havent had any problems with it. Just use it is short bursts, not long sprays.

i to use Humbrol spray can stuff and Games-Workshop and the Humbrol stuff is supposed to come out that way.

I've used 'Plasti-kote' sandible gray lacquer primer for years and never had a problem with doing anything to the plastic other than covering it. It comes in a spray can and can be found in many auto parts stores.

Glenn