paint types

most acrylics are water base paints. enamels are solvent base paints. iguess it would depend on your own prefrence buy a bottle of each and air brush a scrap peace of plastic and let them dry see witch one you like best.

http://www.craigcentral.com/models/paint.asp

Also make sure when buying and especially before painting, which type of paint you use. I had a bad weekend...all paint related.here goes:

1) The 1/48 scale Hustler I painted with solvent based enamel (Silver Model Master) paint was fine until I took the can of clear to it to seal the decals and paint.....Unfortunately I picked up the wrong can and sprayed enamel glosscoat over it...immediately the Silver paint ran and separated...the enamel Black did not however. So the model now looks like it has been through the war. maybe eventually I will repaint it and purchase a new set of decals. I was going to spray an acrylic coat 1st, then gloss it with enamel.

2) The 1/48 scale A-10 warthog was next in line. as soon as I had sprayed the testors dullcoat on it, I realized I should have also looked at the label closer. This was a Clear Dullcoat...but a lacquer. I did not have the canopy masked, and it fogged it up severely. Now the interior details can not be seen. The lacquer paint and the clear canopy material do not react well to each other.

Remember...always read your labels, and don't be in a hurry. Acrylic is water based, Enamel is Oil/solvent based, and Iacquer I believe is also water based...at least the can I had was acrylic lacquer. Another tip is if using rattlecans, to warm them to room temperature in warm water (DO NOT APPLY HEAT DIRECTLY---BOOM!)...the warming will thin the paint and spray easier...also warm the "cans of air" for airbrushing if using those..your paint will keep flowing. For detailing or such use the opposite paint for a clearcoat or a wash coat that you would for basecoat. I.e. if enamel base, use acrylic clear/wash. Lacquer paints will co-exist well with either enamel or acrylic...so a three way paint is a good way to detail. I hope this helps a bit...and maybe saves someone a possible headache before what happened to me comes around.

Dave

#1 Rule – Paint based “Heat” (refers to the strength of solvent and not temperature)

Coolest - Acrylics < Enamels < Lacquers – Hottest

Don’t ever put a “Hot” paint on top of a “Cool” paint. They will wreak havoc on each other. And, don’t put Lacquers on top of Lacquers, they will dissolve each other.

Acrylics dry faster, but don’t adhere as well to plastic as Enamels or Lacquers. Acrylics also have larger pigments, which causes some issues when airbrushing. And most Acrylics clean up with ammonia based cleaners (Windex)

Enamels and Lacquers adhere well to plastic (they resist paint “lifting” when masking with tape) Enamels and Lacquers have smaller pigments which let them “flow” better through airbrushes. Enamels and Lacquers have strong fumes and require their respective “solvents” to clean up.

Personally, I “prime” with Enamels (because of the superior adhesion properties) and “paint” with Acrylics (because of the fumes)

Hope that helps

QUOTE: Don’t ever put a “Hot” paint on top of a “Cool” paint. They will wreak havoc on each other. And, don’t put Lacquers on top of Lacquers, they will dissolve each other.

As long as the under coat of paint is fully cured, nothing will happen. Lacquers won't dissolve each other. I've painted a car with lacquers and didn't even let the undercoat dry before I used the 2nd color with no problems.

I have sprayed lacquer over top of acrylics lots of times with no problems at all. I'm talking about both Modelmaster metalizer and Alclad2, over Tamiya acrylic paint and Alclad2 over Future, which is also acrylic. Not arguing with anyone just sharing what I have experienced.

Rich

Better safe than sorry. ryanpm is right. If you let it cure properly, you "should" be fine. But if it's not cured or you have an application problem, don't wait long enough to cure...etc, the risk is still there and this is what can happen:
http://www.finescale.com/fsm/community/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=52270

This explains why I've been having problems with masking tape lifting my paint.  I'd better start reading my paint bottles more closely!