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Clogging Aztek

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  • Member since
    November 2005
Clogging Aztek
Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, November 3, 2005 7:11 AM
i've got a metal body DA aztek that i'm learning to use. the problem i'm starting to run into is that the brush will start clogging up after a while of painting. This is with the fine acrylic (beige) tip. the paint flow will stop and i can get it started again by opening up the nozzle but then the paint flow will stop again pretty much right away if i bring it to near closed. the hazard in this is that i'll usually pull the handle back to get more paint flow, do it too much because nothing is coming out and then get a big SPLAT and run of paint all of a sudden.

The paint is valejo (the non-ab kind) thinned 10-7 with water. anything i can do to prevent this besides spraying water through the tip ever 3 minutes of painting to prevent the build-up? i would thin the paint out more but i'm afraid it'll get runs if it's any thinner since i'm trying to do very fine lines.

if anyone has any advice, i'd appreciate it. btw no need to take the time to trash the aztek in response, i know the rep, it's alright.
  • Member since
    October 2005
  • From: Maryland
Posted by usmc1371 on Thursday, November 3, 2005 9:47 AM
Try thinning with an acrylic retarder. The retarder slows down the drying time of acrylics. Tamiya's thinner has a retarder in it. You can also get acrylic retarder from hardware stores.

Also, try using a cotton swab moisten with rubbing alcohol to clean the nozzle tip regularly while painting to avoid build up and clogging.

Jesse
  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: NYC, USA
Posted by waikong on Thursday, November 3, 2005 12:14 PM
The retarder is a good tip, I do that and it helps eliminate the problem

The beige tip by the way is not an acrylic paint tip, thus its tendency to clog more. The black tip is the smallest Acrylic tip aztek makes, That will not clog as easily with acrylic. Unless you need really fine lines, the black tip will work.
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, November 3, 2005 12:26 PM
Have you given your tipa good thourough cleaning? It may need it. Just take the thing apart.

I found out that the Aztec nozzles can come apart into 4 parts: the tan body, the white-ish inner section, the needle itself, and the spring.

To take it apart, pull the white inner piece out of the tan body. Next, pull the end of the needle out. This is NOT the pointy end, it's the plastic end. The end of the needle that I'm talking about is a tan colored plastic that pushes towards the tip. It should come out fairly easily, but don't worry you shouldn't be able to break it. I haven't yet. When you get that out, you'll notice the spring. This simply slides off the needle.

The first time I cleaned mine really good, there was a lot of paint built up in the inside of the white piece and also in the spring and on the needle. I use 91% alcohol and Q-tips to clean it. If the build up is really bad, you can soak it for a while in the alcohol.

I had a similar problem before I did this the first time, now It has gotten better. I clean this way now after every long session, when I'm ready to stop using the brush for more than a few hours. Shooting some solvent through works well for quick color changes, but this routine I use is for the deep cleaning.
Hope this helps.
  • Member since
    December 2003
  • From: CT - USA
Posted by thevinman on Thursday, November 3, 2005 12:27 PM
QUOTE: Originally posted by usmc1371

Try thinning with an acrylic retarder. The retarder slows down the drying time of acrylics. Tamiya's thinner has a retarder in it. You can also get acrylic retarder from hardware stores.

Also, try using a cotton swab moisten with rubbing alcohol to clean the nozzle tip regularly while painting to avoid build up and clogging.

Jesse


Sign - Ditto [#ditto] Also, remember to RETRACT the needle when swabbing...
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, November 3, 2005 1:45 PM
thanks a lot, very good info. i remember now that the beige tip is for enamels. anyone know a good chart/table/list of which color nozzle is what? i've gathered bits and pieces but nothing detailed. all i know for sure (i THINK Smile [:)]) is that the red tip is the medium acrylic.
  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Cornebarrieu (near Blagnac), France
Posted by Torio on Thursday, November 3, 2005 1:48 PM
And take care of the sense of the spring on the needle : one way is right, the other way leaves the needle fall off the nozzle.
You can get all details on what nozzle is for what use on the Testors site in the spare parts section.

Thank you all for coming José

  • Member since
    August 2004
  • From: Nowhere. (Long Island)
Posted by Tankmaster7 on Thursday, November 3, 2005 3:02 PM
QUOTE: Originally posted by goatmonkey

thanks a lot, very good info. i remember now that the beige tip is for enamels. anyone know a good chart/table/list of which color nozzle is what? i've gathered bits and pieces but nothing detailed. all i know for sure (i THINK Smile [:)]) is that the red tip is the medium acrylic.


red tip is medium anything. It works fro enamels and acrylics.
-Tanky Welcome to the United States of America, a subsidiary of Exxon Mobil Corporation, in partnership with Halliburton. Security for your constitutional rights provided by Blackwater International.
  • Member since
    February 2004
  • From: Connecticut
Posted by Tailspinturtle on Thursday, November 3, 2005 4:04 PM
Nozzles - go to the Testors web site on airbrushing and look at page 15:

http://www.testors.com/tes_cds/hobby_guides/06%20Airbrushing.pdf
  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: SETX. USA
Posted by tho9900 on Thursday, November 3, 2005 6:09 PM
don't use Tamiya thinner with Vallejo paints... they tend to clump kind of like cottage cheese or milk gone bad with it.. The Vallejo acrylics are water versus solvent based.. they recommend water to thin with BUT sell a wonderful thinner of their own with an adhesion aid and retarder. It looks a lot like the Liquitex airbrush medium retarder I bought from the art store so I imagine it is similar enough that you could use that instead. (one day I'm going to add a touch of white glue to the liquitex and see if it reacts the same as spraying with the real Vallejo thinner)

the Qtip soaked in thinner or windex works wonders as was stated above... also every once in awhile giving a heavier than normal blast of paint onto a paper towel while spraying keeps you from having to use the swab so much... it clears the channel the paint goes through...
---Tom--- O' brave new world, That has such people in it!
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