SEARCH FINESCALE.COM

Enter keywords or a search phrase below:

Acrylic paints - too soft to wet 'n dry?

7096 views
16 replies
1 rating 2 rating 3 rating 4 rating 5 rating
  • Member since
    December 2003
Acrylic paints - too soft to wet 'n dry?
Posted by clc5@ryford on Saturday, November 5, 2005 1:23 PM
Confused [%-)]My subject title says it all. I'm trying to move from enamel to acrylic for a variety of reasons. Tamiya acrylics spray beautifully and are more consistent in quality than the enamels i use, but it never seems to cure hard enough for my liking. I like to get a good finish.Whereas the enamel paints can take a little rubbing down with wet 'n dry to take off any dust particles etc. (which inevitably get in the paint) ,the acrylic just roughs up! Also because it never seems to get hard enough it also scuffs too easily when handling (before i get a chance to get a coat of future on.)
I use isopropyl alcohol as a thinner at a ratio 2:1 paint /thinner.I have used very fine grade wet ,n dry!
I am sure some readers have come across this problem and found a work-around!
  • Member since
    May 2005
  • From: Left forever
Posted by Bgrigg on Saturday, November 5, 2005 1:33 PM
Acrylics need to be babyed a bit, though the results are worth it. Especially when you consider the ease of cleanup. I find that they need 24-48 hours minimum, and sometimes up to a week depending on the colour and finish.

I'm assuming you mean Wet Ones pre-moistened towelettes. I have no idea what they put in them to keep them moist, but I'm betting it's not just water. Get hold of some tack cloth for dust removal, and I'm sure your results will improve dramatically!

So long folks!

  • Member since
    January 2004
  • From: USA
Posted by MusicCity on Saturday, November 5, 2005 1:58 PM
The names of the paints say it all .... Enamel (ceramic-like, hard); Acrylic (plastic). Enamels do cure harder than acrylics because acrylics are basically a coat of plastic around the parts.
Scott Craig -- Nashville, TN -- My Website -- My Models Page
  • Member since
    December 2003
Posted by clc5@ryford on Saturday, November 5, 2005 4:20 PM
Thanks MusicCity and Bgrigg. I'm in the U.K. Wet 'N 'Dry is what we call the grey (gray?) abrasive paper sold in auto spares shops for rubbing down car (automobile?) paintwork between paint coats. It may go by a different name your side of the pond (Atlantic).
  • Member since
    May 2005
  • From: Left forever
Posted by Bgrigg on Saturday, November 5, 2005 4:37 PM
Ah, then you're using an abrasive that is far too coarse for acrylics. Properly sprayed acrylics shouldn't need any sanding between coats. I've never felt the need.

If you are painting car models, then stick to lacquers! I use acrylics almost exclusively. The only time I don't is on car bodies, then I use Tamiya TS series rattle cans, which I understand is a synthetic lacquer. Then I do a light wet sanding between coats.

So long folks!

  • Member since
    September 2005
Posted by nathaniel on Saturday, November 5, 2005 5:16 PM
A great subsitute for wetndry for acrylics would be paper coffee filters. You can buff acrylics with them and hopefully get the same results that you were getting with wetndry on the enamels. They are softer and require more gentle abbrasives.
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Saturday, November 5, 2005 6:15 PM
Try using the tamiya acrylic thinner for your tamiya paints. you'll get a better finish rather than just using isop. alcohol.
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Saturday, November 5, 2005 6:16 PM
Try using the tamiya acrylic thinner for your tamiya paints. you'll get a better finish rather than just using isop. alcohol.
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Saturday, November 5, 2005 6:17 PM
Try using the tamiya acrylic thinner for your tamiya paints. you'll get a better finish rather than just using isop. alcohol.
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Saturday, November 5, 2005 6:18 PM
Try using the tamiya acrylic thinner for your tamiya paints. you'll get a better finish rather than just using isop. alcohol.
  • Member since
    September 2005
Posted by nathaniel on Sunday, November 6, 2005 3:15 AM
I've noticed no difference between their thinner and 99% isopropynol. Now the 70% or 55% ispropynol does predouce different (worse) results.

That's a lot of posts!
  • Member since
    December 2003
  • From: Phoenix,Az
Posted by 9x19mm on Sunday, November 6, 2005 3:43 AM
I tried lacquer thinner to thin Tamiya acrylics and loved the results. I have made the switch to Tamiya exclusively and when I finish my bottle of Tamiya thinner I will go back to lacquer thinner. Oh and by the way for some reason everyone asks if they can still clean their AB with Windex (or any other acrylic clean up metthod) and the answer is yes.
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, November 6, 2005 6:58 AM
Luis, there is an edit button. Please use it.
  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: SETX. USA
Posted by tho9900 on Sunday, November 6, 2005 9:04 AM
ryan - it's either the forum or the net connection. the same thing happened to me the other day and I didn't realize it till later when I read it. He probably hasn't come back in and seen that it posted multiple times..
---Tom--- O' brave new world, That has such people in it!
  • Member since
    January 2003
  • From: The Hoosier State
Posted by plasticmod992 on Sunday, November 6, 2005 6:20 PM
I have been tinkering with acrylics a bit as well, and have recently finished a model entirely with Tamiya paints. The paint scheme was day-glo red and white for a T-45A Goshawk. Being that my base color was white, It would have to serve as a primer for the subsequent red areas. For the base white, I thinned the Tamiya with laquer thinner and airbrushed the model as normal. The paint airbrushed very well, at a ratio of approx. 2:1, compressor at between 15 and 18 psi. I allowed the white base color to cure for a day, but I noticed that the paint had cured in half that time. As someone had metioned above, I had a few rough areas I wanted to lightly sand as well. I was able to gently sand these minor rough areas with a Squadron fine sanding stick with no problems, as long as I went lightly. After sanding, the offending areas were smooth and no paint came off. This is the method I use when airbrushing acrylics, especially when laying down base coats for subsquent colors for a very nice finish. After airbrushing base coats, thinning with Laquer thinner, I thin subsequent colors with denatured alcohol and airbrush as normal. Check out the finished model below.

Italeri 1/72nd scale T-45A Goshawk


Greg Williams Owner/ Manager Modern Hobbies LLC Indianapolis, IN. IPMS #44084
  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: SETX. USA
Posted by tho9900 on Sunday, November 6, 2005 6:43 PM
wow!!! that's spectacular! I went a different road when dealing with acrylics... I chose to start using Vallejo made acrylics and fell in love with them. You have definitely put a home run in for the Tamiya acrylics!
---Tom--- O' brave new world, That has such people in it!
  • Member since
    May 2004
  • From: Singapore
Posted by albert_sy2 on Wednesday, November 9, 2005 7:15 AM

In my experience, Tamiya acrylics should never be sandpapered. You will scuff the paint. Just try to thin the paint a bit more and apply more coatings.

Another tip: avoid dust! Dust is one of our worst enemies.

Groovy baby
JOIN OUR COMMUNITY!

Our community is FREE to join. To participate you must either login or register for an account.

SEARCH FORUMS
FREE NEWSLETTER
By signing up you may also receive reader surveys and occasional special offers. We do not sell, rent or trade our email lists. View our Privacy Policy.