Orange peel from my Air brush

Orange peel is primarily caused by too much air pressure, or being too close to the surface you are painting. The viscosity of the paint, the temperature, the humidity, the type of thinner and/or "dryer", and other environmental conditions, can all contribute to the problem.

I find that the best performance can be obtained from the paints if you use the same brand of thinner as the paint, eg Testors enamel and Testors recommended enamel thinner .

You can repair or correct the "orange peel" by sanding the surface smooth and recoating it. Because sanding can ruin "detail", and more paint can cover up detail, consider using Poly-S Paint and Decal Remover and start over.

It is also important to use FRESH paint and thinner that has been thouroughly mixed and filtered when it is poured into the paint cup or bottle for spraying. Just as important is having a PERFECTLY clean airbrush EVERY time you use it. Compressed air should be run through a filter/dryer. Lastly, never ever pour paint mixed with thinner back into the paint bottle.

Most of the work for a paint job is in the preparation.

Find a system of tools and products that works well for you.

If you ever get a PERFECT paint job, it is time to quit. Otherwise, lets keep striving for that perfect paint job. Cheers, rangerj

panzer striker,

Just about any hobby shop carries airbrushes. I personally use the Testors Aztec 470 aribrush, and have had no problems with it. You can also buy them on-line at www.squadron.com, or www.modelexpoonline.com, or.www.testors.com, etc. If you plan on using your airbrush with an air compressor, make sure that you get a water trap and pressure regulator to go with it. Good Luck!!

were do you guys buy those airbrushs,i need to get one,im new at this hobby

There's a couple of things that you can do to fix it. It all depends on how smooth you want the finish.

1. Strip and refinish
2. Start by putting on a coat or two of future (it's self leveling and will fill in the "bumps"), then sand with extra fine steel wool and buff with a buffing pad in a dremel (lowest speed) before putting on a wet coat - use denatured alcohol for acrylic paints. I normally don't use acrylics but every once in awhile I will and use denatured alcohol.
3. Go to the auto parts store and pick up some papers up to 2000 grit and sand to hearts content. Again finish coats of paint should be less paint and more thinner sparyed lightly.

You could also try mixing some acrlyic paint into future.

I dont use Testors acrylic , I use Tamiya.
This uses 2 parts alcohol to 1 part paint.
I gave up using water as it degraded the way the paint sprayed and adhered to the plastic.
Your problem may be the fact that you are using water as your thinner.
when this happened to me in the past ,stripping was the only way to ensure that the finish would be good.
If the paint is water based, like the old Humbrol acrylics ,I used a 1 to 1 ratio when spraying and had to build up the coats very slowly as the gloss orange
took quite a while to dry , but coated very thinly.
Spraying a flat white undercoat helped a lot , but it was hit and miss for a while.
The first 5 coats had the orange peel finish, but it eventually finished quite well.
you should run tests with different mix ratios ans also check your tip,head and airbrush needle for damage as this could also cause problems .

Thanks it is raining here I never thought of humidity?

Sounds like you have too much moisture in the air. I have always had good luck with Model Master oil based, even if you don't mix it just right. They are very forgiving. Try sanding smooth the surface and priming before adding your color coat. 1000 is pretty fine. Finish with 600. Good Luck.