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Micro Mask

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  • Member since
    January 2004
  • From: USA
Posted by MusicCity on Sunday, December 11, 2005 10:36 AM
So now after I apply the tape mask, I immediatly coat all the overlapping areas on the tape mask with Maskol.  Seals any small holes I might have missed and glues down those areas that might lift before I paint.  Takes a little longer but keeps down the frustration levels

Quincy that's a really good idea.  I have a couple of bottles of liquid mask down stairs and I wondered what I'd ever use it for.  Like you, I've had my share of problems with them and swore I'd never use them again.
Scott Craig -- Nashville, TN -- My Website -- My Models Page
  • Member since
    May 2003
  • From: Central USA
Posted by qmiester on Sunday, December 11, 2005 8:48 AM
I don't use Maskol (or the like products on the market) that much (lets just say I have problems with them and let it go at that), normaly using tape instead.  However, this leads to problems especially with airbrushing.  No matter how I try, I will either leave a small gap somewhere in the mask, or the tape will pull away before I get the thing painted (How'd that triangle of OD get on the canopy? -  Crap!).  So now after I apply the tape mask, I immediatly coat all the overlapping areas on the tape mask with Maskol.  Seals any small holes I might have missed and glues down those areas that might lift before I paint.  Takes a little longer but keeps down the frustration levels
Quincy
  • Member since
    August 2003
  • From: Alice Springs Australia
Posted by tweety1 on Sunday, December 11, 2005 7:48 AM

Hiya Bill.

I also used to use Micro Mask a long time ago, and found it difficult to remove, especially if it was applied over acrylics paints, or if acrylic paints were sprayed over it.

Micro mask reacts with acyrlics and will bond to them like the preverbial to a blanket, so if you are masking over any acrylics I would advise you to stop.

Micro Mask really does bed down well on parts, leaving a thin film, and I have found that on clear parts a flattened toothpick helps a fair bit, but it is still too difficult for me, hence I changed to Bare Metal Foil.

Do you dip your clear parts in Future, or any other acrylic based coating?

If so, this might also be an issue using Micro Mask.

I can't say for sure as I have never used MM over Future, but Future is an acrylic floor covering, and that could also make it a little more difficult to remove.

--Sean-- If you are driving at the speed of light and you turn on the headlights, what happens???
  • Member since
    March 2005
  • From: West Virginia, USA
Posted by mfsob on Saturday, December 10, 2005 8:15 AM
Well, I know that Goo Gone, a citrus-based cleaner, will remove the leftover bits of adhesive from the Bare Metal Foil you use to mask canopies, so I assume it would work on Maskol as well. Just use it sparingly.
  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Wagga Wagga, NSW, AUSTRALIA
Micro Mask
Posted by Bill Clarke on Saturday, December 10, 2005 12:46 AM

Hi everybody, I have recently purchased this product as I found Maskol tended to marr clear parts and affected acrylic paints that I use. I tested some of it on an old painted model and found it somewhat hard to remove, it really appears to stick, unlike Maskol which peels off effortlessly.

Can anyone give me some advice on this please ?

Thanks.

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