Peak C-5

Mikalos - the trigger for air on a double action is an "on or off" type set up, you can't control the ait going through.  Your regulator on the compressor does that.  What really controls how much detail or coverage you can do is the pressure you are spraying at as well as how far you pull the trigger back...

I would be interested in seeing how it does at lower pressure (10psi or below) with the trigger pulled only a little back (just enough to put some paint through it)

Good luck on your new airbrush!!!  I hope it is a good one for you!  Although seeing which airbrush it probably is (the Iwata) I am sure it will serve you well!

Now it is time to buy a gallon of water so you can prime it and try painting ALL over it!!!  that is the best way to learn in my experience!

mikalos wrote:

Is there something I can paint or do basic strokes, lines, etc.. to show on the board here that may help you make a decision? Any color schemes? Put a scale against lines?

Mikalos, did you happen to tell bearair you were a first time customer.  If so they usually send a free createx video.  If you watch it  there is some guy painting shirts.  It's boring but he does show some practice strokes.  Things like dots, lines, and daggers.  I don't think they are useful practice for model painting though.  Tho's milk carton is a good way to go.  Nothing beats practicing on real plastic.  I usually write my name in cursive 3 times to warm up.  Once big, once smaller, and then as small as I can.  BTW: did you try using the preset handle yet?  It really is a great addition to that airbrush

I-beam

I just picked up 10 or so bottles of paint today. Mostly Model Masters with a few Polly Scale and Tamiya mixed in. So hopefully within the next day or so I can get some real practice in.

I did get the video of createx. I watched it and then bought one bottle of Createx paint. I only had small water bottles and shot them. The Createx did not seem to stick well. So I sprayed on paper to get used to the airbrush.

The first thing I tried was what tho9900 wanted. Low air preasure small pull on the trigger. I used the preset to do this. At first the paint seemed to come out fine right out of the gates (first time use). Then I had to increase the air pressure and or allow more pull back on the trigger. This was with the paint right out of the bottle no thinning as I wanted to see what that did. I later did thin it but with no exact measurements and with distilled water.  I see good benefits with the preset. Wish it had marks so I know how far to turn it for desired applications....but I can figure that out.

Some things I saw: overspray, whiskering (to close so air blew paint?), after awhile turning on air with trigger I would first get some clumping coming out (heavier specks)..I think I saw this issue in another thread....etc... I contribute this to me being new at airbrushing and not thinning the paint correctly. I never went above 20 psi. If I angled brush seemed to help.

What I saw during cleaning: I sprayed the createx airbrush cleaner that came from airbear. I sprayed this through the airbrush. Then took brush apart and cleaned as I went. I did notice the needle had dried specks of paint on which I had to dip in the solution for a bit for it to come off. That needle is very fine. I should have ordered another incase I damage this one. I think this paint on needle caused some issues with airbrushing?

Anyways as usual I write a book so will end there.

Mikalos - welcome to the C5 AND some of the issues with spraying acrylics.

The spraying fine then slowly requiring more pressure or trigger pull to continue is what's called tip dry, the paint dries onto the tip of the needle as you are spraying..  I spray 99% acrylics and just keep a Q-tip moistened with the appropriate thinner and every so often run it over the head (pulling the needle back with the trigger first... and make sure you don't PRESS the trigger when you do this!  ) then rub gently till the dried paint dissapears.  The second thing that helps is using a retarder, Tamiya acrylic thinner contains a retarder already so is what I use to thin most acrylics.  For water based acrylics like Vallejo I bought some Liquitex Airbrush Medium which is a retarder.  Thin, add a few drops of the liquitex retarder and off you go!

Also as far as the paint drying on the needle, a bottle of needle lube would help you a lot.  They are about $5 US and help keep paint fron drying on the needle.  (causing the aforementioned problem).  You can get them online as Badger Regdab Needle Juice, or Medea Needle Lube from www.squadron.com or www.greatmodels.com.  Some also just buy glycerin from the local pharmacy to lube with.  A drop or so then coat it all over the front 1/3rd or so of the needle and again... off you go!  It also helps lube the trigger if you put a drop or two down in where the body where the trigger is.  When you are through spraying or the spray pattern becomes erratic you can remove the needle, put in on a soft cloth like a t-shirt and gently roll it to remove the dried paint.  Don't push it too hard to keep from bending it.

Whiskering is caused more by too thin of paint or too high of pressure while too close to the kit or all of the above.  Either thinning less or shooting farther back from the model helps.

Some of the art and Tshirt acrylics like Createx don't stick to models well.  If you really want to use them a dab of liquid detergent might help cut down the surface tension and help it to lay down.  Also Vallejo thinner which is for water based acrylics contains both a retarder AND an adhesion agent.  Basically I stick to model paints though, it's a lot easier for me.