Pretty thorough article, but there are a couple of things I'd add:
o Most airbrushes have air passages that go from the air valve to
the front of the body. Contrary to popular belief, air does NOT
blow through the nozzle of most airbrushes, it blows around the nozzle
and pulls the paint out through the nozzle. The air passage is
bored through the body from the front to the air valve and from time to
time it should be cleaned out. Steel airbrushes can be soaked in
laquer thinner (remove anything that might have an o-ring in it to be
safe) and then blown out with compressed air. The smaller
inter-dental brushes can also be used to clean parts of the passages
but will seldom be long enough to get much of it.
o Dry threads will occasionally seize. I like to put a tiny
bit of airbrush lube on everything that is threaded, as well as my
trigger mechanisms.
o Regarding the small inter-dental brushes, I actually prefer the
"Refills" that are available to the ones with a handle. Both
types are handy, but I drill a hole in the end of a wooden toothpick
and glue a "Refill" into the hole (they have a wire stem that makes
that easy). That allows me to get to the needle bearing and other
tight spots in the body that the handles prevent me being able to get
to.
o Pipe cleaners are very handy for cleaning hard to reach places,
but be sure to blow everything out with compressed air afterwards to
remove any "Fuzz" that might get left behind.
o Some head assemblies have very tiny nozzles (such as the Badger
100, 150, and 200) that thread into the head. They are usually
sealed but if the seal breaks loose and you start twisting a piece of
tissue or a pipe cleaner in them the nozzle can unscrew and get
lost. Always twist countercloskwise when viewed from the rear of
the nozzle. This will tighten the nozzle rather than unscrew it.