Which compressor do you have?

You don't have to get a compressor sold specifically to the hobby—mine came used from a hospital scrap pile, I bought one for my son that was sold by an online auto parts dealer. Ace hardware sells a perfectly useable one (for inflating tires) for about $50, if I recall correctly. The drawback of these "non-hobby" compressors is that they usually make a lot of noise. That's easily solved with a box made of half inch plywood and lined with foam. It may also be a good idea to buy a filter for the outlet air line—most of these are piston compressors (as opposed to diaphram compressors) and there is a possibility of compressor oil in the air stream.

Diaphram compressors are quieter, cleaner, and more expensive.

The compressor should be capable of generating at least 40 psi or so. You'll probably never use that much pressure, but that will give you capacity to fill a stilling tank and plenty of air line.

I strongly recommend a foot switch for the compressor, either supplied with or added on by you.

It pays to shop around, and not just at hobby retailers. Scrounging saves money!

I have a Badger Million Air and it is very quiet.
They run $449 from Bear Air but you can get a refurbished one a little cheaper.
I also have a Jun-Air silent compressor that I bought on Ebay and it is also very good.
I have 12 different airbrushes but prefer the Omni 4000, and Badger 100LG for modeling.

Mike

For a compressor I have a Badger 180-1 Cyclone.  It is an oiless, tankless compressor, and by the time I added a moisture trap and regulator, it was close to $200 which is probalbly kind of pricey.  However, aside for the price, the performance is good.  I think is supplies about 30PSI under load, although I normally airbrush anywher from 10 to 20PSI, so it has more than enough pressure.  It isn't silent by any stretch, but neither is it ridiculously noisy like an industrial compressor.  Like many compressors it lacks an on-off switch, so when I buit my spray booth, I incorporated a switched power outlet into the electrical design.

For airbrushes, I had an Aztek double action, which worked adequately prior to it breaking.  I then switched to a Badger 200NH, which is a single-action airbush that has the same needle/tip used by thier double action Anthem 155.  Being single action, I found it pretty easy to get the hang of using, and I have not yet found any model building building situations in which having the double action version would provide any real advantage.

I also have a Paasche H, which is a traditional single action design.  I use it for painting acrylics which is usually clear coats and vinyl tank tracks.  Technically there's no real reason for having one airbrush for enamel and another for acrylic painting, although by having separate airbrushes, I don't have to worry about leftover thinner in the tip messing up a subsequent paint job.

Some people said Badger 175 Crescendo is almost the best for modeling, because of the 3 needle change, fine, med, heavy, for all kind of detail job. Is it a good one?

I use a "garage" style compressor, private labeled from Home Depot $119 CDN bundled with a 2" nailgun and 25' hose. 120psi max, 2 gallon circular tank. Noisy doesn't even begin to cover it, but it's outside in a box with a 50' hose running to the spray booth and I can barely hear it when it's running. Once filled the tank holds enough air for about 10 minutes steady spraying before the compressor kicks back on again. It has a regulator at the tank, which I have set for 50psi, and another regulator with moisture trap at the "business" end so I can knock that down to the 10-15psi I normally spray at. I crank it up to 40-50psi for cleaning.

The compressor has a dual purpose as it not only feeds my Badger 150 airbrush, but gets used to power my pneumatic nailgun and keeps the kid's tires inflated. I'm slowly refurbishing my house, which was the justification to replace my ancient 25psi hobby compressor, which worked just fine and remains in my possession as backup. It was also noisy, but not as noisy as the new one. It was indoors, so I'm glad to have upgraded.

My plan is to buy a Badger 100G for the rare bit of detail work the 150 can't handle. Which isn't much! The neat thing is that the head assembly, valve and needles are interchangeable betweeen the two airbrushes.

edit The crescendo isn't a bad airbrush at all, the fine and medium needles are good for modeling, but the heavy is just too darn big for any real use. I find the body on it a bit fat, so I went with the 150 which offers the same options for changing the needles and heads. Actually I have two 150s, an 20+ yr old one with a medium head/needle and a new one with the fine head/needle. /edit

I have a Crescendo 175. Its a pretty good A/B IMHO. If I can turn out a decent paint job wiht my fat hands with it, anybody can Right now I am using an airtank, but hopefully soon I can buy a compressor, cause this running out of air and having to run out to the barn in the middle of the night is getting old. http://www.airbrushcity.com/121tk.htm That is the compressor I am planning on getting, I have been told its really, really quite, which is what I'm looking for.

I have a Delta 2 Gallons 1.5HP compressor. It's noisy, but work great. About 80$

 

Airbrush wise, I have a Badger Anthem (70$) and an Iwata HP-C Plus (160$)

eizzle, that's a sweet looking little compressor you've got your eye on!

i have a craftsman 3 gallon, but my wife needs a lighter one. i have contemplated the scorpion 1 from hobby lobby, but i think i'm going to get her the air shuttle from airbrush city. http://www.airbrushcity.com/8751t.htm  it comes with an AB so she'll be set .

Joxy wrote:

Hi all What model compressor do you have? Is your compressor is silent? How much it cost? Is it work good? And what airbrush u use? If i ask that all that is to be sure to buy the right material.

1) Central Pneumatic Model 90168 (Exclusively from Harbor Freight)

2) No, not silent

3) $99.99 USD (I got mine when it was on sale for $79.99)

4) Aztek 4704

Triarius wrote:

eizzle, that's a sweet looking little compressor you've got your eye on!

If its as quite as I was told, It will be perfect! The person who posted the link said it was quite enough that his wife could be using it and he could watch tv in the same room, sounds pretty quite to me!

I use a 20lb CO2 tank.  Cost for the entire rig (tank, regulator w/fittings and fill) was $182.54.  Future costs will be about $12 to fill it, but I doubt that'll be for at least 6 months, closer to a year, the way I paint.

Completely silent, since there are no moving parts.  The only noise I hear is the click of the airbrush trigger and the hiss of the air/paint mix leaving the airbrush.  Pressure is easy to regulate and consistent.

I've tried diaphram and tanked compressors, and this is my preferred method, hands down.

A note about safety: a compressed air tank is a torpedo waiting to happen if the valve is knocked off.  That being said, secure your "torpedo" in some way so that if it does get bumped it won't cause any damage or injuries.

knight667 wrote:

…A note about safety: a compressed air tank is a torpedo waiting to happen if the valve is knocked off.  That being said, secure your "torpedo" in some way so that if it does get bumped it won't cause any damage or injuries.

Actually, the valve is the most dangerous part! Which in not to say that the tank isn't dangerous. The valve can, and will, go through most interior walls, regardless of whether or not it hits a stud. There will be no time to dodge. Whatever it hits will be seriously damaged or killed. The tank accelerates slowly enough that you might get out of the way. Remember mv=mv! The tank has less velocity, but more mass. Whatever it hits will be damaged, often severely.

OSHA requires that pressurized tanks be securely fastened upright to a wall or structural member so that they cannot fall over. A piece of chain, one or two eyebolts, and one or two snap hooks are all it takes. Five bucks worth of safety prevents a lot of pain.

Triarius wrote:

knight667 wrote: …A note about safety: a compressed air tank is a torpedo waiting to happen if the valve is knocked off.  That being said, secure your "torpedo" in some way so that if it does get bumped it won't cause any damage or injuries. Actually, the valve is the most dangerous part! Which in not to say that the tank isn't dangerous. The valve can, and will, go through most interior walls, regardless of whether or not it hits a stud. There will be no time to dodge. Whatever it hits will be seriously damaged or killed. The tank accelerates slowly enough that you might get out of the way. Remember mv=mv! The tank has less velocity, but more mass. Whatever it hits will be damaged, often severely. OSHA requires that pressurized tanks be securely fastened upright to a wall or structural member so that they cannot fall over. A piece of chain, one or two eyebolts, and one or two snap hooks are all it takes. Five bucks worth of safety prevents a lot of pain.

And when your tank isn't in use, thread the steel cap back on it so if something does happen, there is even more protection, and it keeps small hands from messing with potential bombs as well!

eizzle wrote:

Triarius wrote:  knight667 wrote: …A note about safety: a compressed air tank is a torpedo waiting to happen if the valve is knocked off.  That being said, secure your "torpedo" in some way so that if it does get bumped it won't cause any damage or injuries. Actually, the valve is the most dangerous part! Which in not to say that the tank isn't dangerous. The valve can, and will, go through most interior walls, regardless of whether or not it hits a stud. There will be no time to dodge. Whatever it hits will be seriously damaged or killed. The tank accelerates slowly enough that you might get out of the way. Remember mv=mv! The tank has less velocity, but more mass. Whatever it hits will be damaged, often severely. OSHA requires that pressurized tanks be securely fastened upright to a wall or structural member so that they cannot fall over. A piece of chain, one or two eyebolts, and one or two snap hooks are all it takes. Five bucks worth of safety prevents a lot of pain. And when your tank isn't in use, thread the steel cap back on it so if something does happen, there is even more protection, and it keeps small hands from messing with potential bombs as well!

Mine lives in my garage/workshop, and we have no "small hands" around, so it's just me and my wife. :)  But safety is always good.

eizzle wrote:

Triarius wrote: eizzle, that's a sweet looking little compressor you've got your eye on! If its as quite as I was told, It will be perfect! The person who posted the link said it was quite enough that his wife could be using it and he could watch tv in the same room, sounds pretty quite to me!

Yep...

It's as quite as I could find after searching all of my local resourses.

My wife and I are very happy with it and we were very surprised at how quite it actually is once we got it.

This is what we actually got - Iwata Kit
But I believe it's the same as the link eizzle gave to Airbrush City.

Come summer I plan to purchase either an Iwata High Performance HP-B Plus or the HP-SB Plus for real fine detail work, depending on where our interest go (I'm thinking also about auto/motorcycle detailing again). I also have a very large garage size compressor for automotive work.

Triarius wrote:

knight667 wrote: …A note about safety: a compressed air tank is a torpedo waiting to happen if the valve is knocked off.  That being said, secure your "torpedo" in some way so that if it does get bumped it won't cause any damage or injuries. Actually, the valve is the most dangerous part! Which in not to say that the tank isn't dangerous. The valve can, and will, go through most interior walls, regardless of whether or not it hits a stud. There will be no time to dodge. Whatever it hits will be seriously damaged or killed. The tank accelerates slowly enough that you might get out of the way. Remember mv=mv! The tank has less velocity, but more mass. Whatever it hits will be damaged, often severely. OSHA requires that pressurized tanks be securely fastened upright to a wall or structural member so that they cannot fall over. A piece of chain, one or two eyebolts, and one or two snap hooks are all it takes. Five bucks worth of safety prevents a lot of pain.

When I was in high school some 30 years ago (OMG!), some bright eyed idjut laid the Nitrogen tank used in the auto shop on it's side before locking up for the summer. Mid August the valve let go. It might accelerate slowly, but it still punched a jeezly big hole through a cinder block wall and plowed a furrow across the center of the school field before finally fetching up against the chain link fence over 200 yards away. It barely moved the fence, so it was likely spent by the time it got there. Needless to say the next year all tanks were bolted upright!

Bgrigg wrote:

Triarius wrote:  knight667 wrote: …A note about safety: a compressed air tank is a torpedo waiting to happen if the valve is knocked off.  That being said, secure your "torpedo" in some way so that if it does get bumped it won't cause any damage or injuries. Actually, the valve is the most dangerous part! Which in not to say that the tank isn't dangerous. The valve can, and will, go through most interior walls, regardless of whether or not it hits a stud. There will be no time to dodge. Whatever it hits will be seriously damaged or killed. The tank accelerates slowly enough that you might get out of the way. Remember mv=mv! The tank has less velocity, but more mass. Whatever it hits will be damaged, often severely. OSHA requires that pressurized tanks be securely fastened upright to a wall or structural member so that they cannot fall over. A piece of chain, one or two eyebolts, and one or two snap hooks are all it takes. Five bucks worth of safety prevents a lot of pain. When I was in high school some 30 years ago (OMG!), some bright eyed idjut laid the Nitrogen tank used in the auto shop on it's side before locking up for the summer. Mid August the valve let go. It might accelerate slowly, but it still punched a jeezly big hole through a cinder block wall and plowed a furrow across the center of the school field before finally fetching up against the chain link fence over 200 yards away. It barely moved the fence, so it was likely spent by the time it got there. Needless to say the next year all tanks were bolted upright!

And where was the valve, just out of curiosity?

I didn't mean to imply that the tank was not dangerous—just that you might have a chance to get out of the way. Once it gets going, it's going to keep going for awhile. Probably won't punch a hole through you, just break you up a bit, possibly fatally. The valve hitting you will make a hole, or tear off chunks.

I once saw the back end of a car that had a full scuba tank let go inside the trunk. Car was totaled.

Hi,

Iwata Power Jet Lite, it costed me 250$ + shippment.

It is silent, hobby compressor.

It was a great choice for me. Does not have air tank, but it is double piston with moister filter and air regulator built in. Free of any pulsation. If you have budget I recommend this comp.

Airbrushes.

I use Tamiya HG Double 0.3 as my work horse for all mid to fine jobs which it takes effortlesly. The second one is Gunze Procon LWA 0.5 (is like a spray gun) which I use for large jobs. I do model cars so I paint a lot glossy finishes. I use it only few times since purchase (just 2 weeks ago) and I am very satisfied. Built quality on the same level as Tamiya or Iwata

Hope this helps

Macio

 

 

Triarius wrote:

Bgrigg wrote:  Triarius wrote:  knight667 wrote: …A note about safety: a compressed air tank is a torpedo waiting to happen if the valve is knocked off.  That being said, secure your "torpedo" in some way so that if it does get bumped it won't cause any damage or injuries. Actually, the valve is the most dangerous part! Which in not to say that the tank isn't dangerous. The valve can, and will, go through most interior walls, regardless of whether or not it hits a stud. There will be no time to dodge. Whatever it hits will be seriously damaged or killed. The tank accelerates slowly enough that you might get out of the way. Remember mv=mv! The tank has less velocity, but more mass. Whatever it hits will be damaged, often severely. OSHA requires that pressurized tanks be securely fastened upright to a wall or structural member so that they cannot fall over. A piece of chain, one or two eyebolts, and one or two snap hooks are all it takes. Five bucks worth of safety prevents a lot of pain. When I was in high school some 30 years ago (OMG!), some bright eyed idjut laid the Nitrogen tank used in the auto shop on it's side before locking up for the summer. Mid August the valve let go. It might accelerate slowly, but it still punched a jeezly big hole through a cinder block wall and plowed a furrow across the center of the school field before finally fetching up against the chain link fence over 200 yards away. It barely moved the fence, so it was likely spent by the time it got there. Needless to say the next year all tanks were bolted upright! And where was the valve, just out of curiosity? I didn't mean to imply that the tank was not dangerous—just that you might have a chance to get out of the way. Once it gets going, it's going to keep going for awhile. Probably won't punch a hole through you, just break you up a bit, possibly fatally. The valve hitting you will make a hole, or tear off chunks. I once saw the back end of a car that had a full scuba tank let go inside the trunk. Car was totaled.

And I didn't mean to imply the valve wasn't dangerous! IIRC the valve had embedded itself into the 4x4 wooden leg of one of the shop tables. All I know is I'm glad I wasn't around when the valve blew! I used to work for a propane company (official tank inspector, impressive huh?) and have seen videos of valves going wrong. You don't want that to happen near you.

Which reminds me, LPG stand for Liquid Propane Gas, doesn't it?

Bgrigg wrote:

Triarius wrote:  Bgrigg wrote:  Triarius wrote:  knight667 wrote: …A note about safety: a compressed air tank is a torpedo waiting to happen if the valve is knocked off.  That being said, secure your "torpedo" in some way so that if it does get bumped it won't cause any damage or injuries. Actually, the valve is the most dangerous part! Which in not to say that the tank isn't dangerous. The valve can, and will, go through most interior walls, regardless of whether or not it hits a stud. There will be no time to dodge. Whatever it hits will be seriously damaged or killed. The tank accelerates slowly enough that you might get out of the way. Remember mv=mv! The tank has less velocity, but more mass. Whatever it hits will be damaged, often severely. OSHA requires that pressurized tanks be securely fastened upright to a wall or structural member so that they cannot fall over. A piece of chain, one or two eyebolts, and one or two snap hooks are all it takes. Five bucks worth of safety prevents a lot of pain. When I was in high school some 30 years ago (OMG!), some bright eyed idjut laid the Nitrogen tank used in the auto shop on it's side before locking up for the summer. Mid August the valve let go. It might accelerate slowly, but it still punched a jeezly big hole through a cinder block wall and plowed a furrow across the center of the school field before finally fetching up against the chain link fence over 200 yards away. It barely moved the fence, so it was likely spent by the time it got there. Needless to say the next year all tanks were bolted upright! And where was the valve, just out of curiosity? I didn't mean to imply that the tank was not dangerous—just that you might have a chance to get out of the way. Once it gets going, it's going to keep going for awhile. Probably won't punch a hole through you, just break you up a bit, possibly fatally. The valve hitting you will make a hole, or tear off chunks. I once saw the back end of a car that had a full scuba tank let go inside the trunk. Car was totaled. And I didn't mean to imply the valve wasn't dangerous! IIRC the valve had embedded itself into the 4x4 wooden leg of one of the shop tables. All I know is I'm glad I wasn't around when the valve blew! I used to work for a propane company (official tank inspector, impressive huh?) and have seen videos of valves going wrong. You don't want that to happen near you. Which reminds me, LPG stand for Liquid Propane Gas, doesn't it?

Little Purple Gnome or
Large Predatory Gargoyle or
Licensed Professional Geologist

I have a powercat from eBaY. i think they sell on ebay pretty cheap, and mine isnt very loud. it's oiless, tankless, all that good stuff. it has about 18psi normally, but that's all i need

Iwata Sprint-Jet compressor, very quiet.  Spraying with a Thayer & Chandler OMNI 4000 dual action.

I use a compressor I bought from home depot.  It is oiless and extremely handy for other projects besides being my airbrush supply. It also has a 1.75 gallon tank that only requires intermittent operation of the compressor when its full. I highly recommend it if you need a compressor for other things (e.g., tire inflator, light air power tools) besides powering your airbrush.

Husky Compressor
Internet number 167336

For airbrushes, I used to use an Aztec A4709, but now have moved to a Cresendo 175 and Iwata HP-CS.

I use HK (HKX) brand Modeller's Automatic Compressor. It's cost around 100$ and can feed for 60psi. Not noisy but the air comeout with many moisture. So, I bought more 2 moisture trap, one is regulator built-in which connect via middle of whole hose and other is connect with my IWATA-HPCP (Gunze mr drain and dust catcher). It's work very very well for modeller (Gundam).

I use a home built one. It works great for me. My dad has worked with hydraulics and pneumatics for almost 30 years so he made one himself out of an old  refrigerator compressor and a tank.

Here's what it looks like.

The compressor.

The garage is messy so don't mind the grill from a SAAB and a motor from an old Puch Dakota (a moped) lying around.