which airbrush is the best for detailed work?

First to the forums! Pull up a keyboard and stay a while.

Second, respectfully speaking but who ever told you nobody uses airbrushes anymore is a moron. While computers definitely have become the tool of choice for many graphic designers, artists still use 'em, and use 'em well. I would like to know how a body artist, one-off Tshirt artist, motorcycle helmut and tank artist is supposed to work on a computer for their finished products. I work in printing and have seen some amazing computer art in my time. I have yet to see something that has surpassed art created by hand. Hell, I know artists that use a technical pen for pointalism. Who uses those anymore? Lots of artists, that's who.

I suggest avoiding these so-called tutors in the future.

I've never used a 360, nor the Iwata products. But I do know some old time graphic illustrators who will never give up their Badger 150 for all around illustration use, from photo re-touching, to photo-realism, to spraying a camo on a 1:48 Bf 109. So that's what I use. In fact, my first AB was a gift from one, and is well over 20 years old. I liked it so much that I bought a new one, just so I didn't have to keep switching needles and head assemblies.

My belief is that while a siphon feed won't be able to spray as fine a line as a fine tipped gravity fed brush, it comes pretty darn close, and can hold a much larger amount of ink and paint. Something a large format artist would appreciate. You can also attach a 1/4 oz color cup for those tiny amounts of spray media. My next airbrush will be the Badger 100G, which shares parts with my trusty 150s, so I can get better with those thin squiggle camos the luftwaffe uses to confound me.

I met and been talking to a gentleman that does some very detailed work on automobiles, he sprays different types of media too.

He swears by his Iwata HP-Plus gravity feeds with a .2mm nozzle for really intricate work.

He convinced me to start off with an Eclipse BCS for general purpose spraying, it does a pretty good job even for small (not really super fine) details. Next I'll be getting one of those HP-Plus gravity feeds.

Hello, chap

If you think you will only need your airbrush for intricate detail work without having to spread rather large areas, you could consider a Paasche Turbo or a Sotar as they are designed for this ( well, that is like I see them in my humble opinion ); but take notice that they are a little high priced, that you won't spray high viscosity mediums with them and, speaking of the Paasche, that  tuning it can be very tricky.  What I  say does not exclude other airbrushes , and you'll  soon see  that everyone has his favourite horse but  whatever choice you'll make, it will imply a minimum of impedimenta ( compressor or alternatives, spare parts, masking mediums, etc... ) and overall a lot of practice.

Hi David and to the forums, I hope you enjoy your time with us.

I don't know what the person who told you that know body uses air brushes anymore was smoking when they told you that, but for modeling it certainly is not true.  Personally I use an Iwata HP-CS and have found it to be an excellent airbrush, I have and extra needle and nozzle for it (the .5mm from the BCS) to allow it to do broad coverage as well as detail work.  I personally haven't used the other brushes you mentioned but I am sure they would give equal performance to the IWATA.

I prefer a gravity feed brush personally but that comes to individual taste and needs (I have used both btw), but for fine detail work I find the gravity feed is just perfect.

Cheers

The airbrush needs to be, in general terms, matched to the medium to be used.  An airbrush that is best suited for illustrations using ink will not perform well when spraying high-viscosity mediums such as modeling paint.  The paint pigment is just too large to go through a nozzle designed for ink.  Likewise an airbrush designed for mediums such as modeling paint will not perform as well as a purpose-designed airbrush when spraying inks because the nozzle is too large.  There are a number of brushes that perform "Well" at both tasks but if you want the "Best" you need to specialize for each.

In my opinion the "Best" airbrush that will perform well at all tasks is either the Badger 100 or 150.  They are the same airbrush, the 100 is gravity feed and the 150 is siphon feed.  There are three head assemblies available that will provide excellent results with any medium by changing the heads and needles.

Torio also touched on a subject that you may have overlooked.  The one thing that I have never seen packaged with any airbrush made is practice.  If you are under the impression that you will take an airbrush out of the box and immediately start producing detailed sketches you are most likely going to be disappointed.  Getting proficient with ANY airbrush takes a lot of practice and a lot of frustration.  For the beginner just getting one to perform reliably is a task unto itself.  Expect to spend a LOT of time practicing before you become truly proficient with any of them.  That's one reason I recommend the Badger 100/150 over the Sotar 2020, they will be more "Beginner Friendly".

I have an Iwata HP-C Plus and I love it. great for details.

I think the Badger 360 is about the same as the 155 but gravity/syphon, if so, it's not that great for detail work. I have a Badger 155 and an Iwata HP-C Plus, and it's day and night. For detail work, go with the HP-C Plus. The HP-CS (Eclipse) is a great brush, but a bit less good for details. The HP-C Plus have a 0.3mm needle which work with everything I tried. The HP-A or others with 0.2mm needle might be too small to use acrylic paint and other "hi pigment" paint. So the HP-C Plus is the best of both world. (Detail and usability of every medium.)

If you aren't in US, there is a guy from Japan on eBay that sell all Iwata product. He is great and he is much cheaper than US store that ship outside US. But if you are in US, then you will get a better deal with dixieart for example. I paid 128$us + 30$ shipping for my HP-C Plus (while Dixieart asked me 179$ + customs) 

btw, the HP-Plus isn't a model. It's HP-C Plus, HP-A Plus, HP-B Plus, HP-SB Plus. They are all great airbrush, but some offer more flexibility with paint than other. Gravity or side feed is a much for detail work.

The difference between the "normal" and Plus are: Newer model - Better color cup - easier to clean - Preset cut away handle (worth 30$ alone) - better thread for easier and safer screwing of the nozzle and few other fix. So it worth it to get the Plus version.

 

Well with this question, its all simply a matter of personal preference. If you lined up 20 artists and asked them which they prefer.. you will get many different awnsers. I have tried many different types over the years. I personally prefer the Iwata HP-CH. Its an amazing brush that works well for all mediums. I use my brush for more than just modeling. I paint car graphics, motorcycle helmets, models and just about anything else I can get my hands on. The iwata brush works well with all types of paint up to and including automotive 2 phase and clears/candies. In my opinion you may pay a little more at first for the tool but you get what you pay for. I was personally steered in the Iwata direction by world famous airbrush artist Craig Fraser. After speaking with him and watching him work switching to Iwata was not even a question.
          The bottom line is... you can be good with lots of different tools if you practice and practice some more.

The bottom line is... you can be good with lots of different tools if you practice and practice some more.

Absolutely correct.  The airbrush is just a tool.  The hand that holds the tool provides the talent and ability.  Good tools are a necessity but until you learn to use them properly you won't get the results you expect.  Put the worst airbrush made in the hands of a true artist and you'll get better results than the best airbrush made in the hands of someone like me.

I use a Badger 100SG for all my detail paintwork, but any of the brushes in the 100 range would do, particularly if you buy one with a fine or medium head.

Assuming that you're in the UK from your name, Badger ABs and spares are more widely available in the UK than Iwata, as well as being considerably cheaper on this side of the pond.

Karl