Grrr...

And after all you've been through with the Aztec. you'll appreciate the 150 even more!!!

Well, you can think about it like this, if you become good at something when it is at its hardest, its only going to get easier from there!

eizzle wrote:

Ya know, it seems to me that for what the super, top of the line Aztek kit costs, (I have seen them for over $200!) there wouldn't be a problem like this? Maybe its just me, but, and this is from what I have read about them, they are really a pain to clean, and with all the problems most have with them, how do they stay on the market when you can buy a Badger, Iwata, or a lot of others for half that price and sometimes less?

 

Yeah I know what you mean. I got mine for $90. Thought it was a great deal. Came with extra nozzles... supposedly a low maint airbrush... Capable of single and dual action... Figured it would be perfect for a beginner. Very frustrating. The directions that came with the brush clearly states NOT to disassemble the nozzles. Have no idea why. After getting some tips from the others here, I find they come apart fairly easily so I don't know what the big deal is about not taking the nozzles apart. After following the tips posted here I will say that I am no longer as frustrated by the Aztek  I will still keep and use this brush. Maybe for just primering or something. However my 150 has been delivered and I can't wait to try it out.

Ya know, it seems to me that for what the super, top of the line Aztek kit costs, (I have seen them for over $200!) there wouldn't be a problem like this? Maybe its just me, but, and this is from what I have read about them, they are really a pain to clean, and with all the problems most have with them, how do they stay on the market when you can buy a Badger, Iwata, or a lot of others for half that price and sometimes less?

When I actually use it, I use an old Binks air brush. My dad gave it to me when I started to build again. I've started a t34/85 and will use the Binks again. If I use it enough to get good maybe I'll come back and ask you pro's what to buy! Good advice here.

use the red nozzle for acrylics.  the black one always clogs on me too but it's just too fine.  i'll only use it with extremely thinned down acrylic or ink.  the orange is good for large applications like wide area acrlyic coverage or clear-coat.

oh and yes, soak the nozzles in rubbing alcohol overnight or for a few hours at least and take them apart to clean them.

Taking the nozzles apart and cleaning them appear to be doing the trick. I have sprayed twice since taking the nozzles apart and cleaning them. So far so good. The needle had a bunch of crud on it. I wonder why Testors instructions state not to take the nozzles apart? Oh well. Still can't wait for my 150 to get here. I guess the only thing better than an airbrush is two airbrushes.  Thanks for sharing guys! 

I take the nozzles apart every time I spray just to make sure, then place in a pot with lid gently shake it clean, As for the ab itself I place the end in a cup of thinners/water so it past the hole for the cup,and gently spray, then a cotton bud with thinners in evey nook & crany. This has worked for me.

Scott.

yeah it has retarder in it, I use that for the MM and Tamiya type colors...

Backflushing is basically blocking the air going out of the brush and forcing it back down the way it came to force any residual paint back into the paint cup.  Sometimes just spraying it doesn't get all of it, the flow won't touch certain parts, when you backflush it creates a turbulent backflow, kinda like a washing machine...  When you get the 150 after spraying about half of the thinner out when cleaning, put a soft towel or such over the tip and slowly pull back on the trigger while pushing down until you see bubbles coming up in the cup...

Thanks for all the comments guys! I am definitely gonna take the nozzles apart and soak it to see if that helps. Was kinda afraid to. Not only do their instructions say not to but I always had this image of taking the nozzle apart and seeing some spring or something go flying. Doh! Um... Whats back flushing? Also I am using Taimya Acrylic thinner X-20A. Does this have the retarder in it? I thought I read that it did. If not could I use the ones you listed with the Acrylic paints I use?

My first brush on coming back to modeling was also an Aztek... What Scott said is true, you have to dissasemble the nozzles to get the really clean.  You'll be surprised how much stuff is in there when you do it the first time... just pull gently back on the needle and it will pull free of the shell.  Use a brush with thinner to clean off the needle and reinsert.

I found way back when that soaking the tip overnight in thinner was usually sufficient to get most of the junk out in it... About every third time of spraying it was time to take apart the nozzle though.  The 150 will be a breeze for ya though.  I don't own it but own two other Badgers and an Iwata and the difference with a metal body brush with a 'normal' needle and the Aztek is night and day.  clean the cup, dump in thinner, spray, back flush spary till empty and you're good to go till the next time!  Every so often take off the head and tip and soak them 30 min or so in lacquer thinner and BAM!  It sprays like the day you bought it.

If you spray only acrylics then getting the needle lube was a good choice.  It helps not only keep the clogging down a bit but makes it easier to clean the needle off at days end.  I also recommend getting an acrylic retarding agent if the clogging is more than your liking even with the new brush.  It slows the drying time a bit with acrylics and limits clogging and tip dry.  You can get it at an arts and craft store like Michaels or Hobby Lobby for about $4 or so.  It will either be milky in texture and color, or clear depending on which brand you by.  Some names are "Liquitex acrylic retarder" and "Goldens aibrush medium" to name a few. 

Could I be overlooking something? Could the brush be defective?

I don't think so, but again my personal experience with Azteks is zero.  I've seen a lot of posts about them and from what I gather that is just their nature.  Regardless of the claims made, they DO take a lot of cleaning to perform properly.  Yuo guys who own them feel free to correct me if I'm wrong, but that's the impression I've gotten.

When I was looking for an AB the Aztek appealed to me due to it's advertised simplicity in cleaning and changing nozzles. I figured it would be perfect for me the beginner. I had initially looked at Badger, Iwata, etc... but thought they looked "complicated". Don't get me wrong. When the brush works I enjoy using it and I am pleased with the results I get. I have a lot of practice ahead of me but I thought initial results were good. But right now I am messing with it more than using it. Thats what is so frustrating. My cleaning steps go well above and beyond what is recommended in the manual. But yet I am still getting clogs. At least it appears to be clogs.  Could I be overlooking something? Could the brush be defective? I bought the deluxe set since I figured that was a good option and I got, at least I think so, a  good deal on it. Also I really hate the idea of just writing off the money I spent on it. Ah well, at least the Aztek got me hooked on airbrushing. : )

My personal experience with Azteks is zero, but from what I've read on this and other forums, taking the nozzles apart to clean them is the only way to keep one working.  Regardless of Testor's advertisements paint does build up in the nozzle and the do have to be cleaned out.  I do know some people that use Azteks and turn out beautiful work with them, but I think that's because they take a lot of care with their cleaning.

The 150, on the other hand, really does only need to have some thinner blown through it to clean it.  An occasional complete disassembly is recommended, but most of the time you can get by with just spraying thinner through it.

I just bought it yesterday mail order. I won't receive it until the 17th. : ( Can't wait. Also picked up the needle lube. Read some posts where it sounds like it might be handy. I may also try and lube the needle on the 470 just to experiment. The instructions say not to take the nozzle apart but at this point I figure what do I have to lose. : D

Isn't that 150 a nice brush? I like it so much I have two, one with the fine needle/head and the other with the medium needle/head. That way I don't have to swap parts around for those tiny little lines. I use the medium combo 99% of the time. My plan is to buy the 100G as gravity fed brushes do offer a bit finer line and better control. As it's the same body, needle and head as the 150, I can share parts between them.