Arggghhh!

The tank had too much paint sprayed on it.  The paint pooled up.

Ryan is at least partially correct, the pattern does look like the paint flowed to the edges where it collected in a thicker layer. However, I suspect there is something else happening here. This sort of problem is also caused by too much reducer (thinner, but I'm using the technical term because in this case it is not a viscosity issue) in the paint as it arrives on the surface. Instead of evaporating on its way to the surface and creating a finer mist, it doesn't come out until after the paint reaches the surface. The problem usually occurs if the painted surface is cold, or if the paint is too cold, the paint is incompletely mixed with the reducer, or if there is too much reducer in the paint mixture.

I am assuming Tamiya TS-49 is a rattle can? If that's the case, then your statement about the different color on different parts of the model is another clue, especially if the tank was sprayed last. Incomplete mixing of the paint in the can with the reducer results in more paint sprayed at the start, and more reducer sprayed at the end. Even if the can was at room temperature when you started spraying, it will cool rapidly as you spray. This is especially true for small cans. They have to be shaken almost constantly, and it doesn't hurt to warm them in bath-temperature water between coats.

The tank looks like it has a case of "fish eye". Be sure to clean the part before you spray again. But "fish eye" can also be caused by oil. Not just reducer. Let us know how you make out and post the finnished pics. Good luck!

13b20 wrote:

The tank looks like it has a case of "fish eye". Be sure to clean the part before you spray again. But "fish eye" can also be caused by oil. Not just reducer. Let us know how you make out and post the finnished pics. Good luck!

That's what I thought at first, but fish-eyes usually occur all over, and are worst where the paint is thinnest. Fish eyes are almost always concave, and these are convex. True fish-eye is caused by any contaminant on the surface that repells the solvent/resin mixture, not reducer.

Nevertheless, your advice to clean the surface is always well taken, and it is particularly important when recoating a gloss paint that has been sanded.

Here is the finished product (minus a few tidbits).  I took the advice and layed several lighter coats just in case I was putting to much on.  I really didn't believe that was the case since I didn't see any other problems.  But I resanded, applied more primer, sanded again and sprayed.   It's not perfect but I'm finsihed fooling with it.  I don't even like Max Biaggi






If it matters any I am happy with the seam removal on the tank (I still have issues with this)


You can really tell the difference in the color on the lowers here


Thank you all for the help!
Erik

erik, Much better! Very nice fix on the tank. I think you saved a nice model. If anyone notices the color difference, just tell them the part needed to be replaced because of a racing incident!

wolfpac wrote:

Here is the finished product (minus a few tidbits).  I took the advice and layed several lighter coats just in case I was putting to much on.  I really didn't believe that was the case since I didn't see any other problems...

Erik, I'm glad you got it fixed up. It looks much better now. 

After looking at the photo's of the original tank spray job, I would have to say the main reason for the problem was too heavy of a coat of paint was applied at once. Those craters (the so called fish-eyes) were formed (non-technical terms, sorry Ross) from the solvent (gases) escaping as the paint was drying during the self leveling process. The top surface or exterior of the paint, if you will, was too dry to level out as the underlying wet surface blew bubbles (released the gases during curing), hence the popped bubble effect.
Fish-eye effect would be seen more of a thin transparent (crater) effect as the paint was incapable of sticking to the underlying surface.

You can really tell the difference in the color on the lowers here

I start with the can warm (warm water bath) and constantly shake the spray can during a spraying session. I also waste the first few seconds of spray from the can before hitting my subject. I lay all my pieces out in a row if possible and spray in a single pass. That way everything gets the same amount (and distance) per layer per pass.

Hope my 2 cents helps a bit or makes sence.
If not, thanks for reading anyways... LOL.