 Lehmann wrote: |
1.) do you paint your armor models after assembly, or in assembly groups
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Kind of depends on the situation, but generally assemble as much as is convenient. Keep in mind that as much as possible, you don't want to have to mask off parts that are not to be painted. Another thing to keep in mind is whether or not you want to paint little detail items such as tools separately or on the tank. It's a matter of preference. I find it easier to paint the tools separate and carefully glue them on after painting the tank. Others find it easier to glue on the tools, paint the tank, and then the tools.
| Lehmann wrote: |
2.) do you apply your base color or primer prior to assembly?( i recently got a tamyia sherman,it's molded on olive, or olive drab green. do i spray all the sprues and hull down with primer first, or build first, then prime/paint) what creates the best results??
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I never prime, but if I did I would do it off the sprue. About the only time that I paint parts on the sprue is if they are small parts that are hard to hold. The tradeoff is the ease of initial painting versus painting and the re-painting where the sprue attached to the part. Often times roadwheels will be convenient to paint on the sprue and then after removal touching up the sprue attachment points.
| Lehmann wrote: |
3.) i have a Badger 350 airbrush, will it do decient cammo schemes? work well for weathering? should i invest in another airbrush for detail painting.
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The 350 looks similar to a Paasche H, so it ought adequately for some 1/35 camo schemes, and obviously any masked schemes it would be perfectly adequate for. Most of my weathering effects are actually quite broad, so again you 350 should be adequate. At some point in the future, when you're really comfortable with airbrushing and are running into the 350's limitations, you might find an upgrade in order, but until then your 350 should be fine.
| Lehmann wrote: |
4.) whats the difference between a normal wash, and a "pin wash". when i was doing model railroading, a typical wash was a thinned "grimey black" wash. now it seems as modelers in armor will do different washes in different colors and styles. anyone care to elaborate on this.
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I'm not an expert with washes, but I believe a "pin wash" is a technique where you don't wash the entire kit, but just dab it here and there on detail items such as bolt heads and inside corners that you want to stand out.
Don't be afraid of trying new things and experimenting. I think doing new things is what keeps the hobby fun. And if you are afraid of trying a new technique on an expensive kit, pick up an oldTamiya early '70's vintage kit. Although not always the most accurate, or detailed, they are usually pretty cheap so destroying one won't hurt the pocketbook, but will still display quite attractively if built well.