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Painting with Tamiya acrylics

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  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: Tacoma WA
Posted by gjek on Sunday, April 16, 2006 9:51 PM
If I recall right one of the main reasons we were talking about DNA was it had better adhesion and allowed the Tamiya acrylics to flow like enamals. Me I'll try most anything. Get an old aircraft kit. Paint one wing with Tamiya and DNA, the other wing with Tamiya and ISO. Do the fusalage with Tamiya and Tamiya thinner. Compare. Not much lost but there is the potential of learning something useful.   Greg
Msgt USMC Ret M48, M60A1, M1A1
  • Member since
    January 2003
  • From: The Hoosier State
Posted by plasticmod992 on Saturday, April 15, 2006 1:28 AM

Mike,

Sorry for the delay in response..been working on this 1/48th scale Viper, reference my "rant" in Aircraft.  I read your post, sounds like you are getting all the results as I am.  And yep, I have that same brand of Sunnyside *DNA.  I have indeed noticed a bit of thickening in the color cup while I was priming with Tamiya's Neutral gray.  Dosn't happen often, but you're right.  I did pretty much the same, as you have described.  A drop or two into the mix and I was back in business.  As far as tip-dry, I just pull back on my Iwata's needle via the cut-away handle to clear the tip.  The high solvency of DNA seems to really clear the works.  But I've used Q-tips, a old paintbrush and sometimes my fingertips on occassion to quickly wipe the tip clean as well.  BTW, you're so right about the Super-Lube.

Greg Williams Owner/ Manager Modern Hobbies LLC Indianapolis, IN. IPMS #44084
  • Member since
    January 2003
  • From: Peoples Socialist Democratic Republic of Illinois
Posted by Triarius on Tuesday, April 11, 2006 4:13 PM
Mike,

Denatured alcohol has a very high evaporation rate, which is why you find the paint thickening in the cup after awhile. That is why I use 90 percent isopropyl, which has a lower evaporation rate.

If you're wedded to denatured alcohol, you might try using isopropyl as a cosolvent, or a combination of denatured, isopropyl, and deionized/distilled water as cosolvents. It should be possible to customize your solvent blend for different conditions, for example:

Hot and dry—denatured alcohol, a little more isopropyl, and more water.
Hot and wet—no water, maybe less isopropyl.
Cool and dry—denatured alcohol, some isopropyl, maybe a little water.
Cool and wet—denatured alcohol, a little isopropyl, and no water.

Ross Martinek A little strangeness, now and then, is a good thing… Wink

  • Member since
    April 2003
  • From: Hayward, CA
Posted by MikeV on Tuesday, April 11, 2006 3:45 PM
No problem Shooter.
If that thinner works well for you there is no reason to change my friend. Wink [;)]
I have not tried it or any other thinners yet but it would be fun to see how Iso alcohol, windex, Tamiya thinner, and others do. Tip dry was only a problem for me when trying to get fine lines and didn't bother normal spraying for coverage.

Wisdom is the right use of knowledge. To know is not to be wise. Many men know a great deal, and are all the greater fools for it. There is no fool so great a fool as a knowing fool. But to know how to use knowledge is to have wisdom. " Charles Spurgeon
  • Member since
    December 2003
  • From: Indiana
Posted by hkshooter on Tuesday, April 11, 2006 3:41 PM

Mike,

I'm still learning acrylics, as you know, and have watched the info and the experiances that you posted on the boards. I even bought a can of DNA to try. I have to say, though, that I havent tried it yet due to the fact that I already have the big bottle of the Tam thinner. Like $7.50 for the thing.

I've learned that nobody really has a problem with the Tam thinner but for the price. I've read and been told repeatedly that the product works well and my own experiance with it has been good so far. About the tip dry thing, I'm not sure of but last night I sprayed for nearly two hours with preshading and basecoating and never had any tip dry problems.  My paint was all Tamiya mixed 1:1 with Tamiya thinner. No wonder it took so long to cover that nearly white plastic!

Since the Tamiya thinner is working so well for me I've decided to stay with it. It's expensive by comparison but I look at it this way. I spend $30 on a kit, $15 on PE parts, $15 on an after market cockpit.  Maybe another $15 in misc paint, paper, masks, whatever. That's $75. Why would I not spend .05 on Tamiya thinner? I clean with Windex so I don't use any thinner there. It's not worth the risk of a lousy finish or aggravation with the airbrush/paint combo to save .04 on thinner when I've spent $75 on the kit.

Now, this is just my .02 and is not intended to be an attack on what others use and like. Just every since you told me price was the only reason to use something other than Tamiya thinner I've been thinking about it. And kinda wondering why it's such a big deal considering the aggravation it has/could cause vs the actual cost per kit/use?

  • Member since
    April 2003
  • From: Hayward, CA
Painting with Tamiya acrylics
Posted by MikeV on Tuesday, April 11, 2006 1:21 PM
I thought I would throw in my My 2 cents [2c] on spraying Tamiya paints so far and maybe offer some tips that might be of help to anyone spraying acrylics or other paints. Wink [;)]
I have been using Denatured Alcohol (DNA) as the thinner for the Tamiya paints that I have been trying and it has been working pretty good, but I have noticed that the paint starts to thicken in the cup after extended spraying times. I just add a little more thinner and go back to painting.
Maybe it's my brand of DNA (Sunnyside), I am not sure. Have you noticed this Greg?

I have found that 2 parts paint to 1 part thinner for normal spraying and a 1:1 ratio for finer line spraying works well. This is the ratios that Greg (Plasticmod992) told me about and he uses also.
I use a mixture of 2 parts filtered water, 1 part Windex and 1 part Simple Green in a squeeze bottle and it cleans acrylics great. I have yet to try DNA with any other paints but it would be interesting to see how it does with other brands. Tip dry is a problem with any acrylics but it is not too bad with this Tamiya mixture.
What you have to do is wipe the end of the needle every now and then with a small paintbrush dampened with thinner or a cotton swab and get that dried acrylic off. Then spraying will be better again until tip dry once again hampers smooth paint flow.
 
You can cut down on tip dry some by using Badger Needle Juice or Medea Super Lube but it still happens over extended spraying sessions and is just a fact of life with acrylics.
Also, when you finish a pass with the paint keep the airbrush trigger pushed down but move it forward so only air comes out as this actually cleans the needle tip some because of the air blowing across it.
This is an old T-shirt artists trick as they have tip dry much worse than we do with modeling paints.
I have done T-shirts in the past and still have the old habit of picking the paint off the end of the needle with my fingernails as I spray air out of the airbrush to clean it. Try it, it works if you have an exposed needle such as the Omni 4000, 155, 360 and others.
Another thing that helps a lot is if you are going to let the airbrush sit for a while without being sprayed, then shoot some thinner through it to get that paint out of it before it starts drying and causes problems when you pick it up 10 minutes later.
Hopefully this is helpful to someone. Wink [;)]

Wisdom is the right use of knowledge. To know is not to be wise. Many men know a great deal, and are all the greater fools for it. There is no fool so great a fool as a knowing fool. But to know how to use knowledge is to have wisdom. " Charles Spurgeon
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