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First attempt at this airbrush lark.

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  • Member since
    February 2006
  • From: Bedford, England
First attempt at this airbrush lark.
Posted by Tecs on Thursday, May 4, 2006 3:49 PM
Just had my first go with an airbrush, I have decided to try pre shading the panel lines and adding a bit of weathering to my 1/48 scale spitfire.

As the topic says this is the first time I have used my new airbrush and found it a little tricky getting the paint to flow smoothly and to keep the lines straight, any tips?

I am going to paint the underside of the spit first as this will be the lightest coulour, is this the right approach?

All help much appreciated as usual.


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Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, May 4, 2006 4:04 PM
it looks great!,when i watched the dvd of master modeler Floyd Werner doing this he says that it's actually better to not have "bone" straight lines when preshading that the crookedness actually helps the finished product look more realistic,it'll be fine and the more you practice the better you'll be
  • Member since
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  • From: SETX. USA
Posted by tho9900 on Thursday, May 4, 2006 9:05 PM

as far as advice... get you a plastic milk jug or such and primer it up and have a go at it with the airbrush!!!  practice going around curves, broad coverage, thin lines... and when it gets all painted???  if you still feel like you need to figure out something primer it again and go for it!!  you;ll figure out the rest as you go along...

and I must say that is a good job of preshading for a first time!  you're off to a good start!!!

---Tom--- O' brave new world, That has such people in it!
  • Member since
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  • From: Bedford, England
Posted by Tecs on Friday, May 5, 2006 4:37 PM
Ok I have done the underside of the spit' and am fairly happy, would appriciate some feedback. I had a little trouble getting the line fine enough without the paint running but I guess this will come with practice.


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Posted by tho9900 on Friday, May 5, 2006 7:56 PM
honestly you've done a great job... a straight line as stated a few posts above does not give the "feel" of the slight variations you've achieved.  And as far as thinness of the lines I would not worry about those as you can always use the main color to subdue them somewhat... that Spitfire is looking good in my eyes!  If you want thin lines then go for post shading or washes... but I think you did just right with what you did!
---Tom--- O' brave new world, That has such people in it!
  • Member since
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  • From: Bedford, England
Posted by Tecs on Saturday, May 6, 2006 2:01 AM
Thanks for the comments Tom, I am going to start the main fusilage tonight so will update in a couple of days. Just noticed I have lost a gun barrel from a wing so will have to search the spares box.
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  • From: Southern California, USA
Posted by ABARNE on Saturday, May 6, 2006 2:43 AM

 Tecs wrote:
Ok I have done the underside of the spit' and am fairly happy, would appriciate some feedback.

I personally disagree with shaded panel lines as being the most realistic representaion of weathering (shading vs non-shading in the aircraft forum is about like Aztek vs. non-Aztek hereBig Smile [:D]).  That disclaimer aside, your shaded panel lines look to be as effectively done as any that I can recall.  Oddly enough, your concerns about not being neat enough is precisely what makes your shading effective.  For future improvements, try to be even more random and less neat.  The last time there was a debate on shading vs. non-shading in the A/C forum, there was one photo produced which had some shading that sort of followed a number of the panel lines.  However it was certainly blotchy and uneven.  The shading on some panel lines were fairly dark, others lighter.  On some, the width was narrow and others wide.  Some panel lines might show no color variation and sometimes the shading woul be in the middle of a panel.

I would suggest on the upper surfaces, go for an even more subtle effect.  What I've observed from photos and real life, is that panel lines and any sort of shading, real or perceived, is lot more pronounced on light gray than darker colors.  All in all, you should be more thar fairly with Spit thus farThumbs Up [tup].

Andy

jwb
  • Member since
    February 2006
  • From: Parkton, NC
Posted by jwb on Sunday, May 7, 2006 7:10 AM
OK...... all I can say is I hope my first A/B attempt is that good. Wow!

Jon Bius

AgapeModels.com- Modeling with a Higher purpose

"For I know the plans I have for you," declares the Lord, "plans to prosper you and not to harm you, plans to give you hope and a future." ~ Jeremiah 29:11

  • Member since
    February 2006
  • From: Bedford, England
Posted by Tecs on Sunday, May 7, 2006 1:22 PM
Have just finished the top surface and have taken the advise and have decided to pick out the panel lines with an oil wash, so I have a couple of questions, should I use a black or burnt umber wash? (these are the only oils I have). What should I thin the oils with? and finally, how long after doing the main camo can I apply a coat of Future?

Your comments and encouragement has spurred me on to get this (my first kit in 20 years) finished so thanks.

I will post some pics when I have removed the masks.


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Posted by tho9900 on Sunday, May 7, 2006 1:50 PM

Let the paint cure, about 48 hours should be good for most paints.. acrylics a little shorter but better safe than sorry... Future the body after that and give it a good 6 hours or so before touching it... after that mix your oils with turpentine or one of the turpentine (non-smelly) subsitutes like "Turpenoid Odorless Turpentine Substitute."  Get it a nice flowable but dark mixture and go to town! 

As far as black or burnt umber that usually depends on what color the exterior is for me... for a (just a guess at which you are doing) Dk Green over Dk Earth I would mix a bit of the Black and the Umber together and use both.  If you are doing the Dk Green over Ocean Grey then black.  If the Dk Earth over Middlestone just the umber, or a bit of black mixed in with mainly umber.

---Tom--- O' brave new world, That has such people in it!
  • Member since
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  • From: Bedford, England
Posted by Tecs on Sunday, May 7, 2006 3:23 PM
Thanks for the tips, one other thing, the decals I have include the invasion stripes and I am a little worried about the cammo showing through the white, is this a problem and if so do you think I should paint the area under the decals white first?

N.B

I realise the colours are not historically accurate but this is more of a warm-up kit for me to hone some skills on, I mixed the grey myself and the green is out of the bottle, I think the grey is a little dark but you live and learn.


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Posted by tho9900 on Sunday, May 7, 2006 7:39 PM

Tecs - paiting the area under the stripes white might be a good idea... typically white doesn't cover well with decals..

-=edit=-

on the colors... they don't look too far off.. and with war weary A/C each plane has its own unique shade due to wear and weather...

---Tom--- O' brave new world, That has such people in it!
  • Member since
    April 2006
  • From: Maryville Tennessee
Posted by oleander13 on Monday, May 8, 2006 6:08 AM

Looks Great.  I'm still working on my first model with an airbrush.  I have to say your a lot braver thatn me going with preshading and camo on the first pass.  I'm working on a A6M2 Zero painted solid gray with the black engine cowling, pretty hard to screw up painting wise.  Anyway, looks great...looking forward to finished Spit!

Things could be worse. Suppose your errors were counted and published every day, like those of a baseball player. Life will always throw you curves, just keep fouling them off... the right pitch will come, but when it does, be prepared to run the bases.
  • Member since
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  • From: Bedford, England
Posted by Tecs on Monday, May 8, 2006 5:28 PM
Almost ready for the Future I just need to brush paint a few details, should I attach the spinner and wheel assembly now or wait till the decals are on?

I have painted the area under the invasion stripe decals the same colour as the underside so the colours will match all over, also I didn't have any white paint Wink [;)]. Fingers crossed I should be decalling in the next couple of days.


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Posted by tho9900 on Monday, May 8, 2006 5:41 PM
I usually wait and attach them after decals, before weathering.  The shorter they are on the body the less time for them to get broken off by clumsy fingers..  Wink [;)]  Looks good and good approach to the invasion stripes... you're right.. at leas they'll appear uniform!  You're going at this so good the next time you could try masking and painting the stripes on yourself... it looks a lot better that way... of course by some white paint first!  Wink [;)]
---Tom--- O' brave new world, That has such people in it!
  • Member since
    February 2006
  • From: Bedford, England
Posted by Tecs on Tuesday, May 9, 2006 4:36 PM
Just done two coats of future and all looks well, swanny's guide to future says 24 hours before decalling so looks like that will be the next step tomorrow night, stay tuned folks this could make or break me as all is going too well so far.  "Its quiet, too quiet"
In Progress: Trumpeter ME262 75% Dragon M4A2 (76) DONE! Dragon Abrams AIM 25% Rob "Audere est facere"
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Posted by Tecs on Wednesday, May 10, 2006 9:42 AM
Oh well minor disaster this afternoon, I attempted to apply the decals and managed to ruin the invasion stripes for the wings and for the fusilageAngry [:(!], out came the masking tape once again and I have now painted the white stripes in myself.  The only real concern is that the decal for the fusilage stripes had the roundel and squadron markings on as well.Evil [}:)]

Oh well this "warm up kit" is honing almost all of the skills I am going to need on future builds heck I might even break out the pastels and give that a go as well.Tongue [:P]
In Progress: Trumpeter ME262 75% Dragon M4A2 (76) DONE! Dragon Abrams AIM 25% Rob "Audere est facere"
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Posted by Tecs on Wednesday, May 10, 2006 5:00 PM
Phew!Make a Toast [#toast] that was hard work but I am quite happy with the results, going to fine sand the stripes to minimise the ridges from the tape and have done as best as I could to salvage the fusilage markings from the decals, two more nights and I should be done.






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Posted by tho9900 on Wednesday, May 10, 2006 8:43 PM

Tecs - I know it would take a week or two but I would be more than happy to send some roundels to you via post..  If your markings don't work out on the kit decals, feel free to email me and I'll get them in the post the same day to you.  I also have a comrade here online who lives somewhat near London I could query to see if he has some extra roundels.  You have done an absolutely marvelous job on this build, made more incredible by being your first with an airbrush.  I would hope we could help make it pristine for you by providing you with the appropriate markings if possible.  Let me know if you need them and they are yours!!! 

---Tom--- O' brave new world, That has such people in it!
  • Member since
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  • From: Bedford, England
Posted by Tecs on Thursday, May 11, 2006 3:01 AM
Thanks for the offer Tom, I may call you on it, but I want to have a go and get this done so I can get on with the F4U I have calling me and the TSR.2 and the BF109 and the... well you know the score! I may try to get and after market decal set from the LHS.

I will update soon.



Rob
In Progress: Trumpeter ME262 75% Dragon M4A2 (76) DONE! Dragon Abrams AIM 25% Rob "Audere est facere"
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Posted by Tecs on Thursday, May 11, 2006 2:44 PM
All decalled up and awaiting the future coat, I managed to create some pretty good roundels from another kit in my stash but the squdron mrks are from the original decal (some serious scissor work !). Just wondered how long to leave the decals to dry before futuring again, I have used Micro sol and set also how long does it take to get the smell of a whole bottle of micro set out of a small room once said bottle has accidentally been spilt on the carpet?Sign - Oops [#oops].

Overall I couldnt be more pleased with the model thus far and with the end in sight cant wait to start the next one.




In Progress: Trumpeter ME262 75% Dragon M4A2 (76) DONE! Dragon Abrams AIM 25% Rob "Audere est facere"
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Posted by tho9900 on Thursday, May 11, 2006 6:34 PM

Tecs - looks fabulous!  You should be able to future within about 12 hours, some wait longer but unless it is rather humid where you live you should be fine.  Your build looks fabulous and you should be very proud of it!

As far as the Micro-Sol a day or two tops should be sufficient... believe me I know!  At least yours spilled on the carpet and not on the decal sheet!  Disapprove [V]

---Tom--- O' brave new world, That has such people in it!
  • Member since
    February 2006
  • From: Bedford, England
Posted by Tecs on Saturday, May 13, 2006 4:28 PM
Have nearly finished I will Flat Coat the model tomorrow and add the tailwheel I forgot to glue on as well as the tail wheel doors.

 All in all I am over the moon with this spit and really cant wait to start the next, hmmm now what will it be?

Thanks for all the input guys and especially Tom, without whose guidence this build would have been a lot less trial and a lot more error. I shall post more pics in the Aircraft section of the forum.

Rob


In Progress: Trumpeter ME262 75% Dragon M4A2 (76) DONE! Dragon Abrams AIM 25% Rob "Audere est facere"
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Posted by tho9900 on Saturday, May 13, 2006 5:44 PM

Rob - ok... I am feeling inferior and insecure here... your first airbrush job looks better than my 10th did!  Wink [;)]  seriously, a really well done build!!!  I was very impressed with your willingness to throw caution to the wind and go for some more advanced techniques (masking the invasion stripes etc...)  I'm a bit more timid I guess, maybe I *should* start scratchbuilding interiors more (that's what I am "playing with" at present.. haven't got much past the adding some wires behind the IP and maybe on the sidewalls yet...)

I can't wait to see your next build!  And if ya feel like coming into any of the Group Builds posted in that section you'll have the one on one attention of many experienced modelers willing to spend the extra time to help figure out something... and they always learn from the person they are helping in the process... and learn a lot of history about what you are modeling at the same time!

---Tom--- O' brave new world, That has such people in it!
  • Member since
    February 2006
  • From: Bedford, England
Posted by Tecs on Sunday, May 14, 2006 2:48 PM
Thanks for the props Tom I will certainly consider the group build option, although with a young family free time is limeted, I started this kit in February!

BF109E-3 1/48 Hasegawa or Fw190A3 1/48 Tamiya next I think, give the Brit something to shoot down Mischief [:-,]
In Progress: Trumpeter ME262 75% Dragon M4A2 (76) DONE! Dragon Abrams AIM 25% Rob "Audere est facere"
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Posted by tho9900 on Sunday, May 14, 2006 4:09 PM
cool Rob - no prob on the time though, most group builds last anywhere from 6 months to more than a year!  It's what lets people like me get overbooked for building!  ("I've got timt o do that, it doesn't end until August! etc...)  In fact that Bf-109E 3 is spot on for the Battle of Britain GB which doesn't end till October... no push though... just enjoy building!!!
---Tom--- O' brave new world, That has such people in it!
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