Apparently, I don't thin my paints right...

I hate to necro an old post, but did you ever solve the splatter problem?  I'm having the exact same effect.  I'm using the MM enamels and Tamiya acrylics and have that problem with either one.  It either splatters like that or it's too thin and runs.

TryintoModel wrote:

I just seem to get a lot of little dots when airbrushing in too wide of an area.  I know that is sorta how airbrushing is, but I think it should be way finer.

Yes, you are correct. You should be able to make adjustments so that you can spray fairly clean sharp edges.

I've tried all kinds of adjustments, but the thing I keep coming back to is I think my thinner is not mixing well enough. I'm definately going to get some MM airbrush thinner and try that. It may be a bit more expensive, but if I only use it for thinning and not cleaning, it shouldn't be too bad.

Using the proper brand of thinner for the paint will certainly remove any doubts about the paint not being thinned with the correct product. It will still be a trial & test sequence to get the mix ratio to your liking.

It just always seems like the paint's coming out too thick and when I try to thin it a bit more it streaks...  My paint jobs don't come out really bad, but I definately can't do much, if any, free hand work because of the way the paint comes out.

The paint "seeming" too thick could be do to using an improper thinning agent. It might seem better once you switch to Testors or MM thinner.

Here is an example. See how there is a lot of overspray of tiny dots?  If I get closer, it will blow the paint on the surface too much.  If I cut down the air and get closer, it still sprays too many of these dots just like this but in a smaller area.  If I try and thin it more, it starts spidering.  I didn't have this problem using the paint from the spraycan in my airbrush.  It was nice and smooth.

Since the results and action worked fine when spraying the paint from the can, I wouldn't think you have much damage to your AB. My guess is something is amuck with the paint mixing and/or application technique (not meaning to pick on your abilities, maybe settings of some sort need to be changed). It seems from the photo that the brown and green have fairly clean lines. It really obvious that the white is not playing nice. I have a few questions for you that might help us all to help you. Humm... does that make sense? Dang I needs me morning coffee.

Does that overspray effect happen all the time?
Do you spray just one type and brand of paint?
What is your airbrush brand and model?
It's needle/nozzle size?
What is your air supply and what is the air pressure set at?
Do you regularly take apart your AB for thorough cleaning?
What is the distance between your AB and subject when spraying?
For how long have you been AB'ing? You did practice alot LOL.

I have always used Ronson lighter fluid with my Testers enamels and have always had good luck! But now I only use acrylic's and only use distilled water as thinner.......

                                   "RC"

I am in no way an expert at airbrushing, in fact because of the same problem you are having, I had not used mine unless I absolutely had to until I joined the forums here. Not to get of topic but this forum has helped me so much especially with my airbrush. I have a Paashe VL and could not get MM enamels to flow no matter what I did. I had multiple problems which I later learned. First, my AB was really dirty so I took the entire thing apart and soaked all of the parts in mineral spirits for about 24 hours. I couldn't believe how much paint was left in it even from paint colors I hadn't used in over 6 months. BTW make sure to remove all of the seals or you will have to get new ones (lesson learned lol). I figured I had solved the problem but still had the same effect so I took it apart again, bought a magnifying glass as Shaun said in his post and inspected the tip and the needle. I found that my tip was ever so slightly bent at the needle opening so I bought a new needle and a couple of tips. After that, everything worked great that is as soon as I figured out how to mix my paint. I had to play around with mixtures for awhile until I found one that worked good for me. I have really good luck with MM enamels mixing them 50/50 with Testors AB thinner and have learned that getting a cup of hot water (not boiling) and setting my paint in it for a few minutes helps the flow even more. I probably have reposted a lot of stuff that other people have said in this topic and others which was not my intention. Just wanted to share what fixed my airbrush problem and hope it helps you.    

That pic look familiar to me I use MM enamels and Poly scale acrylics. To thin I use MM airbrush thinner. On poly scale I use isopropyl alcohol(rubbing alcohol) Their thinner turns some of their colors into goo. I have no idea why. Thinning MM paints I'm close to a 1:1 paint to thinner ratio, maybe a bit heavier on the thinner. That is what I feel comfortable using at 15-18 psi. I airbrushed the camo pattern on my monogram A-10 freehand that way. Like you said, the paint can stuff is really thin. It will run if too much is applied at one time. Same is true with airbrushing. It is better to over thin a bit and apply the color in two or three light coats(allow dry time between each) than have one coat that looks like the peel of an orange.

As you get more comfortable with the a/b you will be able to do these effects that I take for granted. I have been airbrushing for almost 20 years now and I still get these problems regularly. There are some paint brands that I have no luck painting with what-so-ever. Tamiya, Vallejo, and MM acryl make me look like a guy that just picked up his first a/b. I just can not get them to spray properly for me. I also have given up on them. Pick a paint brand that you have access to easily and carries the colors you require and get comfortable with it. Repetition is boring I know, but is necessary(ask your significant other about that one)It is an important key here.

If there is any thing else, just ask. We'll all try to and help you through the evils of airbrushing. Then eventually you'll get the right answer 

Drew

Hey Guys, been lurking here for a couple of years but finally decided to put in my two cents.

TryintoModel, it looks like you may be having one of several problems with that paint splatter.  One may be that you are mixing way too thick.  Like previously stated, a good compromise to look for with paint consistency is that of 2% milk.  Always use the manufacturers thinner (especially if they have a specific airbrushing thinner) for airbrushing; a lot of times these thinners have additional components that promote correct flow and drying.

   Another possiblity is that your airbrush is either damaged or dirty.  While most of the time all that is required is a flush to clear an airbrush, it only takes one time for that paint to dry on the needle or tip, and its really gunked up you'll sometimes get spray pattern like that.  If its clean, check the needle and tip for damage.  You'll have to remove both from the airbrush.  If you havent done that before check the book that came with your airbrush and there should be a walk-through in there - most manufacturers are pretty good about that.  To check for needle damage, place the needle on a flat surface and gently roll it - you'll be looking for any wobble at the very tip.  If it wobbles, it's bent and needs to be replaced.  To check the tip, examine the very end where the needle protrudes from, and look for any cracks, bends, or splitting.  You might have to use a magnifying lens.  Again, if it has any of those problems, replace it.

Anyway, this should help.  I have problems like that every once in a while, and usually its a gunked needle or tip.

Shaun

 

I'm just stumbling along trying to figure out this airbrush stuff too, primarily by trial and error (mostly the latter), so I empathize.  For finer work I agree that  generally you need to lower the pressure in order to avoid blowing too much paint on the surface, but at lower pressures you start having the kind of problems you describe.  It seems that to correct these problems at lower and lower pressures the mixing ratio becomes more and more critical-- sometimes too critical.  Something I stumbled across and have actually had some success with  is increasing pressure (40psi) while using a very thin mix, and then adjusting the paint flow to a minimum.  I don't have a clue why that works, but it seems to.  Just stumbling along............

TomB     

I just seem to get a lot of little dots when airbrushing in too wide of an area.  I know that is sorta how airbrushing is, but I think it should be way finer.  I've tried all kinds of adjustments, but the thing I keep coming back to is I think my thinner is not mixing well enough.  I'm definately going to get some MM airbrush thinner and try that.  It may be a bit more expensive, but if I only use it for thinning and not cleaning, it shouldn't be too bad.

It just always seems like the paint's coming out too thick and when I try to thin it a bit more it streaks...  My paint jobs don't come out really bad, but I definately can't do much, if any, free hand work because of the way the paint comes out. 

Here is an example.  See how there is a lot of overspray of tiny dots?  If I get closer, it will blow the paint on the surface too much.  If I cut down the air and get closer, it still sprays too many of these dots just like this but in a smaller area.  If I try and thin it more, it starts spidering.  I didn't have this problem using the paint from the spraycan in my airbrush.  It was nice and smooth.

Dave, I use MM enamels almost exclusively for airbrushing and find proper thinning to be an inexact science at best.  It's important to ensure the paint is stirred well prior to thinning.  I also use MM airbrush thinner.  Yes, it's more expensive than generic thinners found at the hardware store but I feel more confident that MM thinner will work well.  That's just my opinion, though. 

I always test on scrap plastic first, and sometimes find that my thinning ratio isn't quite right, so either have to add more thinner or more paint.  It just takes a lot of practice; something I'm still working on myself!

HTH,

Mark

When I painted cars, the paint was very thin... you'd be surprised.

Using either the manufactures suggested mixing ratio or the consistency of 1% or 2% milk is really a general guideline. There are many factors that play a roll in what the proper mix is and it's not really an exact science, close enough usually should work.
Temperature
Humidity
Air pressure
Needle/Nozzle size
How fast you move the tip / how heavy you apply the layer
Distance from subject being sprayed
To some extent, the type of paint

I mix paint by the toothpick-drip method, LOL.
I give it a test shot on something first at my usual distance and pressure to make sure I can work it. If you stick to one paint brand and work with it long enough, the mixing ratio will become easier.

-- Oop's Edit --

It is important to use a thinner compatible with the paint.
Runs are caused by one of two things or both.
Too thinned paint or too heavy of a coat/layer.

DrewH wrote:

I used the can paint consistency to help thin my own. Now I don't even look at the marks on the eyedropper, just a feel for the right amount.

Should my paint be that thin??  That spray can paint seems really thin, much thinner than I make when I use bottle paints.  If that is the case, I really must not be doing it right.

Does anyone know why my paint runs so bad when I try to put more thinner?  Could it be that it's not mixing right with the thinner or would that not be the problem?

Dave

I remember seeing it at such places as Ace Hardware, Home Depot, and even Wal*Mart.
So it should be pretty easy to find.

Hmm, that's interesting.  Is it sold in hardware stores?

I'll probably pick up some Testors thinner first and see if that helps. 

Hey guys, Ross did a bit of research for us in another thread. He found out that it might be best to "try" thinning Testors & MM enamels with Naptha instead of mineral spirits.

http://www.finescale.com/FSM/CS/forums/630185/ShowPost.aspx

Well, it has been said that perfection is the result of thousands of failures. I'm no different than you. I had nothing but bad luck when airbrushing. try this or that everyone said. Then I heard of the spray can in a cup then spray that paint trick. Got the same results as you. After years of painting, I still have the odd problem. I used the can paint consistency to help thin my own. Now I don't even look at the marks on the eyedropper, just a feel for the right amount.

One thing I do use, especially on MM paints, is the manufacturers thinner to thin the paint. You just want to be sure it works the way it is supposed to. Use the mineral spirits to clean up after though. The other stuff is too pricey for that!

Drew