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Chrome silver Testors-Model Master rattle can

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  • Member since
    January 2004
Chrome silver Testors-Model Master rattle can
Posted by st_gorder on Tuesday, June 20, 2006 5:23 PM

Hey guys;

Does this stuff exist?  I thought I saw some at Hobby Lobby but, not sure.

Thanks;

Steve Gorder

  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, June 20, 2006 6:34 PM
i know MM used to have a whole line of rattle cans,but i haven't seen any in a long time,i'm not even sure if they still produce them
  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: SETX. USA
Posted by tho9900 on Tuesday, June 20, 2006 6:49 PM
yeah model Master makes it, if you can't find it at HL, you can order it from www.greatmodels.com.  Search for TES1290 and you'll see it...
---Tom--- O' brave new world, That has such people in it!
  • Member since
    November 2005
  • From: White Mountains, NH
Posted by jhande on Wednesday, June 21, 2006 1:35 AM

-- Jim --
"Put the pedal down & shake the ground!"

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: SETX. USA
Posted by tho9900 on Wednesday, June 21, 2006 6:23 PM
yeah but if he gets it from Greatmodels there's always the benefit of having to order a kit and other goodies to offset shipping a bit!  Wink [;)]
---Tom--- O' brave new world, That has such people in it!
  • Member since
    January 2004
Posted by st_gorder on Wednesday, June 21, 2006 6:57 PM

Thanks Tom, Jim and lone.  It's very true what you said about having to order a kit or two to offset the postage just a bit!!

Thanks,

Steve Gorder

  • Member since
    November 2005
  • From: White Mountains, NH
Posted by jhande on Friday, June 23, 2006 5:31 PM
No problem Steve and by the way, I wasn't really suggesting that you purchase it from Testors. Rather I gave that link in hopes it would be helpful to make sure it was the correct paint you were looking for.

I check Testors paint catalog for the color and item number that I want, then shop elsewhere LOL.



-- Jim --
"Put the pedal down & shake the ground!"

  • Member since
    February 2006
  • From: Boston
Posted by Wilbur Wright on Monday, June 26, 2006 2:04 PM
It is # 1290 as stated here. I would say it is the brightest chrome they make, hoever you must be careful as it comes out quite heavy. Warm the can first, and use several  light coats. I have just used 2 cans of this.

It is normal testors not MM

  • Member since
    January 2004
Posted by st_gorder on Tuesday, June 27, 2006 5:50 PM

Thanks Wilbur;

Waiting for it to come from Great Models.  It's going on an Academy P-36 that will eventually become an 86 Rasmussen PH defender.

Steve Gorder

  • Member since
    July 2003
Posted by J Pad on Wednesday, June 28, 2006 3:25 AM

Like Wilbur says, this stuff comes out of the can VERY thick. Use no more than a couple of passes on the part, otherwise it will turn into a drippy silver blob of paint!

I use this color on my cars; it works great for timing covers, oil pans, intake manifolds, etc... It's a great substitute for non-chrome parts, and looks like polished metal. It has many uses for sci-fi and aircraft too.

Be careful when handling the parts after painting, as the silver finish scratches easily.

Good luck!

  • Member since
    January 2004
Posted by st_gorder on Wednesday, June 28, 2006 6:22 PM

Does this stuff dry to a glossy finish, or should I to Future the plane before decaling?

Steve Gorder

  • Member since
    July 2003
Posted by J Pad on Thursday, July 6, 2006 2:28 AM

Yes it is glossy, in fact a good rule of thumb is that ALL metallics and transparent colors will dry glossy. This Chrome color will be VERY bright, especially in direct sunlight!

A clear coat will not be necessary unless you have applied/will apply some delicate weathering to the surface (such as chalks). But usually decals would be applied before weathering anyways.

Be sure to mask off and paint some contrasting panels on the plane lighter and darker shades, or it could end up looking very toylike due to the bright finish.

American aircraft used a much higher quality aluminum in their skins than other countries. Look at any bare-metal US AC from WW2 or the Korean war for example, German AC metal tended to look very greyish in its finish.

Due to weathering, your surface should look anywhere from bright and clean to dull and scratchy, depending on the amount of service the model would intend to depict. But even straight from the factory, a bare-metal plane would show a tiny amount of scuffing around wing-walks, cowl panels and other high traffic areas. Period photos of in-service AC will give you some inspiration in your painting/weathering endeavors.

Good luck!

  • Member since
    February 2006
  • From: Boston
Posted by Wilbur Wright on Thursday, July 6, 2006 1:40 PM
Using Future will ruin the effect of this paint color................it will not look like metal.............it will look like a shiny kitchen floor.............while Future has many great modeling uses ...this isn't one of them......so beware.
  • Member since
    February 2006
  • From: Boston
Posted by Wilbur Wright on Thursday, July 6, 2006 1:44 PM
As Jpad says you must vary panel color to achieve realism...........I am finishing a big Revell 1/72 B36 model and it is simply the most complicated paint and masking job in my 30 years of modeling..........at least as much cost for the paint as for the model (which was $80 bucks). 
  • Member since
    January 2004
Posted by st_gorder on Thursday, July 6, 2006 4:25 PM

Thanks Jpad and Wilbur;

Another couple of questions.  How does the paint react to decal setting solutions like Micro-Sol & Set?  Also, what would I use to seal up the decals if not Future?

Steve Gorder

  • Member since
    February 2006
  • From: Boston
Posted by Wilbur Wright on Thursday, July 6, 2006 6:04 PM
I use diluted white vinegar at $1.69 a half quart. to set decals (forget the testors 3.00 for a tiny amount)....Vinager is the same thing...................the sealing question for decals on this paint is a good question..........anyone????????
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