SEARCH FINESCALE.COM

Enter keywords or a search phrase below:

finishing problems

613 views
7 replies
1 rating 2 rating 3 rating 4 rating 5 rating
  • Member since
    May 2005
  • From: Left forever
Posted by Bgrigg on Monday, July 3, 2006 12:33 PM
Time I've got plenty of, I'm working on that elusive wisdom!

You're welcome, I've learned all my tricks right here in these forums (and especially from Scott's website), all I'm doing is repeating what I've heard and posting links. I've also made many mistakes and have a Zero sitting on my shelf with a sandpaper paint job, so I know what I did wrong! LOL!!

So long folks!

  • Member since
    May 2006
  • From: Tampa, Fl
Posted by zipmeister on Monday, July 3, 2006 12:27 PM

Wow. Thank you so much for your time and wisdom. People like you are what make this forum the greatest modelling tool in our hobby today.

Again thank you so much,

Steve

  • Member since
    May 2005
  • From: Left forever
Posted by Bgrigg on Monday, July 3, 2006 11:56 AM
I have the same brush with the Medium needle/head combo. I also have a Fine but it's TOO fine and tends to give me fits. It's a great brush and is capable of just about anything you want. The sister series of the gravity fed 100 brushes are capable of slightly finer lines as gravity fed brushes can use lower air pressure, but the 150 should be able to do 95% of what you want.

You should definitely thin the paint. You can buy 250ml bottles of Tamiya Thinner (X-20A) that already includes the retarder. Do not buy the little bottles or you may as well just start throwing money out the window! Or you can buy isopropyl alcohol (90% or 99%) and add the retarder (Createx or Liquitex), you need just a drop. Thinning is up to varying factors, have a read through MusicCity's website (scroll down for his tips) on thinning. Do note his caveat about isopropyl alcohol and flattening of gloss paints! He has lots of information there, and I suggest you take the time and read through them.

I stocked up on the Tamiya Thinner and use that, though I'm going to give iso and retarder a whirl when the time comes. What you are looking for is a 2% milk consistency. I eyeball my paint/thinner mix, but it's probably pretty close to 1 to 1. Try 15-20 psi of pressure and get up fairly close. You can practice on milk jugs or scrap styrene. Good luck!

So long folks!

  • Member since
    May 2006
  • From: Tampa, Fl
Posted by zipmeister on Monday, July 3, 2006 11:21 AM

 jhande wrote:
Oh come on now guys...
I'm surprised at you Bill and Steve...
Where are your priorities?
Shock [:O]

Get a window A/C unit, a little under counter fridge and pop a few of those wobbly pops! Wink [;)]

Then the paintjobs will look just fine.  Smile,Wink, & Grin [swg]

LMAO!!!!



Tried that but when the wobbly pops wear off the paint job is still there!Big Smile [:D]

  • Member since
    November 2005
  • From: White Mountains, NH
Posted by jhande on Monday, July 3, 2006 9:39 AM
Oh come on now guys...
I'm surprised at you Bill and Steve...
Where are your priorities?
Shock [:O]

Get a window A/C unit, a little under counter fridge and pop a few of those wobbly pops! Wink [;)]

Then the paintjobs will look just fine.  Smile,Wink, & Grin [swg]

LMAO!!!!



-- Jim --
"Put the pedal down & shake the ground!"

  • Member since
    May 2006
  • From: Tampa, Fl
Posted by zipmeister on Monday, July 3, 2006 6:37 AM

Thanks Bgrigg,

Yes 'm using Tamiya paints, no thinner straight out of the bottle, and yes in is hot ( Tampa fl.). I,m think I'm also too far away. Which set up is best Fine, Medium, or Heavy? I'm using a Badger 150 A/B.

Thanks again,

Steve

  • Member since
    May 2005
  • From: Left forever
Posted by Bgrigg on Sunday, July 2, 2006 11:19 PM
I'm guessing acrylic paints? What you describe is paint drying before it gets to the surface.  There might be a few things conspiring against you.

What thinner are you using, how far away are you spraying from, what pressure are you using and just how hot is the area you spray in?

I suggest using an acrylic retarder which are available at Hobby Lobby and Michaels and other places that cater to artists and hobbyists. A couple of drops of that will slow down the drying time. Second skootch up a bit closer with the nozzle and adjust your pressure to match (3-4 inches at 15-20 lbs. should do the trick). Try to paint in the early morning or late evening if you can't do it in an air-conditioned area.

Right now in Kelowna BC it's hitting 100° fahrenheit, as my house doesn't have A/C I'm hard pressed to even want to paint, let alone twist off another cap from a wobbly pop!

So long folks!

  • Member since
    May 2006
  • From: Tampa, Fl
finishing problems
Posted by zipmeister on Sunday, July 2, 2006 10:04 PM
Hey guys if I had any hair I would be pulling it out! I'm new to airbrushing, so that is problably the root of the problem. Ok, whenever I spray the paint seems to dry as soon as it hits the model. My flat paints look like powder and my glossy has a bumpy texture to them. Even when I spray on a future coat it comes out grainy! Please help, I'll owe ya
JOIN OUR COMMUNITY!

Our community is FREE to join. To participate you must either login or register for an account.

SEARCH FORUMS
FREE NEWSLETTER
By signing up you may also receive reader surveys and occasional special offers. We do not sell, rent or trade our email lists. View our Privacy Policy.