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efficient spot priming

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  • Member since
    February 2006
  • From: Boston
Posted by Wilbur Wright on Sunday, July 23, 2006 5:03 PM
I would not use a can for small areas. I had to do what you are talking about on the B36 I'm building. I masked off the trouble spot and brush painted the spot. When I saw the malformation, or seam line or whatever was corrected . I just wet sanded the spot back down with 400-600-1000-1200-1500-2000 grit  in that order, and your back in business to airbrush the whole area.
  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: SETX. USA
Posted by tho9900 on Wednesday, July 19, 2006 8:29 PM
I use Krylon white primer for most of my stuff and it works fine.  It's an enamel and only costs a few dollars per big bottle...
---Tom--- O' brave new world, That has such people in it!
  • Member since
    August 2005
  • From: Sydney, Australia
Posted by Phil_H on Wednesday, July 19, 2006 7:15 PM

Tamiya also has 40 ml bottles of brushable "Liquid Surface Primer" (which can be thinned for airbrushing if required) - Part number 87075.

It's a lacquer based product, so it's pretty "hot", but it means it dries very quickly. Having said that, it does self-level very well before it dries. You may still need to feather the edges down if you do lay it on too thickly though.

  • Member since
    February 2006
Posted by Neptune48 on Wednesday, July 19, 2006 12:29 PM

 goat monkey wrote:
I want to prime an area of plastic to make sure seems and holes were filled and sanded well and texture is consistent.  I've ... finally, i could spray some primer through my airbrush but i'm trying to avoid running anything non-water soluble through it to avoid having to clean the thing.  do i have any other options?  enamel marker maybe?  do they make white sharpies?

Mr. Monkey,

I'd recommend reconsidering the part about using you airbrush for solvent-based paints.  It's no harder to cleanup than acrylics, you just use lacquer thinner.

You might want to try Mr. Surfacer 1000 or 1200 as a combination filler and primer.  The will fill tiny scratches and exposed pits, holes, etc.  Mr Surfacer 500 brushed on will fill small voids.  All three sand to a smooth finish for NMF or gloss coats, as well as flat paints.

Testors makes an acrylic white primer, which is sold under Model Master Acrylics label, but I prefer the Mr. Surfacer.

 

"You can't have everything--where would you put it?"
  • Member since
    November 2005
  • From: White Mountains, NH
Posted by jhande on Wednesday, July 19, 2006 11:46 AM
I've used all kinds of "non" model specific primers. You can use "some" auto primers and even Krylon paints. Whatever you're about to get, just remember that some harsh lacquer paints hate plastics. I frequently use Krylon that I get at Wal*Mart for a few dollars a can.

As far as spot priming goes from a can...
Get a stiff piece of paper or card stock, cut a hole in it slightly larger than the area that needs priming. Hold the paper about 1/4" or so from the model and give the primer can a shot or two. The results will be close to already being feathered (less sanding of sharp edges).


-- Jim --
"Put the pedal down & shake the ground!"

  • Member since
    November 2005
efficient spot priming
Posted by Anonymous on Wednesday, July 19, 2006 9:23 AM
I want to prime an area of plastic to make sure seems and holes were filled and sanded well and texture is consistent.  I've got white primer in a spray can but i don't want to use it because it's not good for small areas and it's easy to waste this expensive as gold stuff even when spraying something big.  i could just spray it with some acrylic but it wouldn't really work as primer so, again, it'd be a waste.  finally, i could spray some primer through my airbrush but i'm trying to avoid running anything non-water soluble through it to avoid having to clean the thing.  do i have any other options?  enamel marker maybe?  do they make white sharpies?

does cheap automotive primer work at all?  the stuff runs $2 a can at autozone vs $9 for a smaller can of mr surfacer or tamiya primer.
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