Paint confusion

DCV wrote:

My paint choices are Tamiya or Model Master since these are what my local shop has in quanity. The Tamiya bottle paint are listed as acrylic but the spray cans don`t describe what type of paint it is (the color description matches, NATO Green and the Tamiya number on the bottle and the same NATO Green and Tamiya number on the spray can- Tamiya website doesn`t shed any light on it)

Tamiya bottled paints are acrylic (enamel versions of the same colours are available in some countries), however their spray cans are lacquer based. You can paint acrylic over lacquer without any problems - however, take care spraying a lacquer based paint over acrylic - there are plenty of horror stories to be found in these pages.

When in doubt, don't mix brands, and "patch test" on something unimportant. Generally, staying within the same brand for your paints reduces the risk of incompatibilities.

First off, Welcome to the forums. Please post here often and share your wisdom.

For the most part you will be fine. The MM (model master) spray cans are enamels. You are best to stay with the MM enamel bottle paints so the colors will match. Each company has a differnt shade for the same paint color. MM uses a standard paint system called FS 595B standard. It is a paint coding system that takes away guess work. eg: gunshp gray has the code FS 36118. This is the same in spray cans and bottles. Again this color will differ a bit from one manufacurer to the next, even with the same FS number. Tamiya uses their own paint codes to refence their paints. However, Nato green should be the same in spray can and bottle.

The problems with incompatability is usually found when a paint is not allowed to cure before the next is applied. If you are using the MM line, you will not have any problems. Let each color dry for three days before the next one is applied. If you are using a paint from a diffrent company, wait one to two weeks to ensure the paint has fully cured.

As thus far, acrylics have not been put into spray cans yet for modelers. So that solves that.

Hope I shed a bit of light here for you.

Drew

So I gather that using clear Laquer over a cured Enamel color base shouln`t give me any problems.

(Hope I`m gathering correctly :) )

Kits are so expensive now my biggest fear was ruining one- Looks like it`s going to be cheap styrene sheets for a bit of paint practice first.

Also looks like fast forwarding my time table towards an air brush is also in order.

Applying clear lacquer over enamels shouldn't be a problem if you do it right.

• Make sure the enamel is well cured first.
• Lay down a very thin "mist" coat of clear, and let it cure before proceeding
• Apply further thin coats (and allow to dry), until you have the finish you require

If you apply too much lacquer too soon, it will eat straight through the paint layers underneath.

Hey DVC, welcome back to the hobby. Yes somethings have changed a bit since our old days of modeling, but some haven't.

Painting lacquer over enamel "can" be a problem although if carefully done and using a not so "hot" lacquer might work just fine. But to play it safe, I never use lacquer on my models (tired of using them on 1:1 cars LOL).

If you want to make sure your paint layers are compatable with each other and no ill effects, try spraying an enamel clear over an enamel color coat. You can't find a dull clear coat you say? Try Krylon Low Oder Clear Sprays - 11 oz spray can of clear matte # 7120.

Leave the lacquers for covering the lacquers or a base coat. Unless you want to experiment and learn the technique.

Personally I take the easy and known compatability way out. 

Just my

-- EDIT --

Instead of practicing on expensive styrene sheets, blast away on some old plastic milk jugs, 5gal plastic buckets, kitty litter buckets, etc...

Excellent advice all and much appreciated- hope to report back in a couple of weeks as work allows on my progress.