The chore that is painting

I do know what drybrushing is. It's just that in the miniatures wargaming circles I frequent, it's scoffed at as being a "newbie technique". Experts in that art do wet-blending and layered highlights instead. Indeed, the ultimate expression of that is the technique of NMM (non-metallic metal), the simulation of reflective metal surfaces with skillful use of color gradients.

Several of my drybrushes are useless from being used in various un-brush-like roles, like spreading white glue. One of them looks like an afro on a stick. I still have one "tank brush", which is a big stiff brush that's decent for spreading a lot of drybrushing over big areas. I do need to get some higher-quality ones in the future, especially in the larger sizes.

Agamemnon wrote:

Plus some Citadel drybrushes (I'm not sure what they use for hair, but it's rigid enough to be used for a stabbing weapon).

You should be able to get Gunze acrylics in Europe, after the place I buy mine from in the UK, sources their stock from Germany.

Failing that try the link below to MDC where I buy mine.

http://www.shopcreator.net/mall/modeldesignconstruction/

They ship to the rest of the EU.

Karl

It's true that they're a bit hard to get properly mixed up. I was been thinking just sticking a ball bearing or something similar into the bottle to help, but someone helpfully pointed out that it would just block the nozzle every time you turned the bottle upside down.

I also need to get some more high-quality brushes. Some of my current ones are dollar-store quality. Plus some Citadel drybrushes (I'm not sure what they use for hair, but it's rigid enough to be used for a stabbing weapon).

If your Vallejo is doing that it may not be mixed well.  When I mix mine I shake for a good minute or two, take the bottle in your hand by the neck and tap the bottom against the heel of your hand or the side of your leg while shaking.  I use my Model Air for brush painting all the time with no problems and it is thinner than Model Color or Game Color...

If the bottle is new or hasn't been used for awhile shake it a little long to make sure you get it mixed well.  you might even try taking the dropper top off the first time you mix and get a long rod and mix them around a bit before shaking..

Good luck!!!

Agamemnon wrote:

I assume other brands have wildly different properties and there are no generic rules.

Triarius wrote:

Don't thin the paint unless it is drying too fast—painting in more humid conditions helps (turn off the air conditioning or get a room humidifier). Try adding small amounts of acrylic retarder to your unthinned paint.

Okay, this is obviously one of those things that does not translate from my 28mm wargaming/figures painting experience at all. IIRC, 1:1 is recommended as the MINIMUM dilution rate for Vallejo acrylics for figures, and I've always used it. Indeed, it's far too thick to be painted straight out of the bottle, approximately finger-paint consistency.

I assume other brands have wildly different properties and there are no generic rules.

Agamemnon wrote:

I've tried several coats of thinned paint, which is what I've always been told is the "correct" approach, but all I'm getting is an uneven, streaky surface with paint pooling into every crevice and raised detail.

Oh, decals are easy. I've not had appreciable problems with them, just the occasional speck of dust trapped between film and glosscoat, and the matte varnish I apply afterwards not quite killing the shine.

The cheapest airbrush deal I know of locally is approximately 120 euro, for what's probably not a very nice brush at all, and a compressor that I'm sure would wake up the neighbors with its infernal racket. Still, I suppose I gotta ask the locals if they can give me a few pointers. Even something crude that I could use for spreading an overall coat of panzer grey would be a pretty good start. And once I'd have a compressor at my disposal, getting a better brush would be possible at any time.