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question about air brushing camoflague on a 1/144th scale aircraft

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  • Member since
    February 2003
question about air brushing camoflague on a 1/144th scale aircraft
Posted by mass tactical on Tuesday, August 22, 2006 8:32 AM
Would like to know if it is practical to try a free hand scheme on a really small scale surface or would it be better to just to mask it and have basically hard edges. I am wondering if it is possible to shoot lines so fine that they are realistic. Thanks for ideas.

Mike
  • Member since
    January 2004
  • From: USA
Posted by MusicCity on Tuesday, August 22, 2006 11:55 AM
If the soft-edged demarcation on the real one is 4 1/2" wide you would have to get a 1/32" soft-edge to be realistically to scale at 1/144 scale (4.5 / 144 = 0.03125).  Only you can say whether or not you could get that fine a line or not or whether you are willing to go with something that is slightly out of scale.  Personally I'd try it and see how it worked out.
Scott Craig -- Nashville, TN -- My Website -- My Models Page
  • Member since
    February 2003
Posted by mass tactical on Tuesday, August 22, 2006 12:03 PM
Thanks. I'll give it a try perhaps on something like an old milk jug to see how it looks. Based upon your decription of the line width, there can't be much of a feathered edge if done properly.

Appreciate your help.

Mike
  • Member since
    January 2004
  • From: USA
Posted by MusicCity on Tuesday, August 22, 2006 1:42 PM
Yeah, that's the thing about it.  If you look at a real one you can't really put your finger on the paint and say the demarcation starts here and stops here, that's the whole idea behind soft edges.  A lot just depends on the guy who is spraying it, how close he gets, how careful, etc.

I usually guess that from soft edge to soft edge is somewhere around 6" more or less.  On 1/32 scale that's about 3/16" which is pretty easy to do.  At 1/72 scale it's down to 1/16" and at 1/144 it's around 1/32".  More is not going to make it look bad as long as it isn't a lot more.  If you get up around 1/16" that equates to about a foot on the real plane, and that would be pretty wide.  Also, the demarcation will be a lot more pronounced (i.e. visible!) in high-contrast areas such as between dark green and tan.

I think your biggest problem is actually going to be the size of the spray droplets.  Unless the paint is really good and thinned properly the spray "Dots" are going to look huge at that scale.  Play around with thinning, pressure, and distance from the surface until you find something you like.  If you use acrylic I'd recommend a good bit of retarder in the mix to insure the spray doesn't dry before it hits the surface and has time to level out.  It's probably going to take some trial and error so the milk jug would be a good place to start.

Scott Craig -- Nashville, TN -- My Website -- My Models Page
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, August 22, 2006 5:37 PM

Milk jugs? Is Tom lurking around here somewhere?

 

E

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