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Aztek Experience

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  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: NYC, USA
Posted by waikong on Thursday, September 14, 2006 12:50 PM
The Tamiya acrylic range is good, but its definitely not as large or as specific as the MM acrylic range. The MM range has FS number or says specifically their application - i.e. German Panzer Gray. Except for some Japanese aircraft specifc paints, Tamiya colors are more generic. If you are particular getting the exact correct shade of RAF desert tan, then you will need to use one of those paint cross reference charts which tells you which color or mix of colors corresponds to FS or other colors.

So I wind up using both, generic & Japanese AC colors I'll use Tamiya, but something specific like Hellbau I'll just use MM. I just have a hard time recreating specific shades of paint if I ever needed to touch up some area a few days later.

Here's a link to Tamiya flat acrylic color chart...

http://www.tamiyausa.com/articles/ln/72/images/X.jpg

  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: Chipley FL
Posted by urich on Thursday, September 14, 2006 11:16 AM
Hi all I have learned a lot from reading this post. I have used the aztek\testors AB for a long time For the most part I like the easy use of it. I agree with most about cleaning the tips you do have to take them apart too realy clean them. I can't remember but I believe they have a life time warrenty. I have tryed others Badger, Passche. But I keep comming back to the 470. I have a question I want to ask on the Tamiya acrylics paints do they have the same colors as MM I want to start working on my models over here were I work but I will need to use all acrylics. I was going to use MM  but now I'm not sure?  
  • Member since
    October 2005
  • From: Maryland
Posted by usmc1371 on Thursday, September 14, 2006 7:51 AM

There's been other talk on the forum about MM acrylics.  When they dry, they're tough as nails to remove.  After using MM Acryl paints, I have clean up my color cups with lacquer thinner or MM Dried Acrylic Cleaner.  Water won't budge them.

Jesse

  • Member since
    March 2006
  • From: Right Side of a Left State
Posted by Shellback on Thursday, September 14, 2006 12:30 AM

I used a Badger 150 for yrs , then started using the Aztex 470 , both are double action as you probably know  and both good AB's . Anyway i went back to my Badger 150 to see if it would solve my problem with MM acrylics ,it didnt . One thing i noticed was that holding and operating the trigger on the Badger is not as comfortable to use as the Aztex . The overall design of the Aztex is easy to use IMHO.

Shell

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: NYC, USA
Posted by waikong on Wednesday, September 13, 2006 3:42 PM
I don't have the 370, so I can't tell you if the 470 has more travel. But subjectively, it does have enough of 'range' for me to vary the air flow fairly easily.

The hose is not attached, theres a thread at the base of the AB where the airhose screws in.
jwb
  • Member since
    February 2006
  • From: Parkton, NC
Posted by jwb on Wednesday, September 13, 2006 2:31 PM
I have a question for Aztek users who have the 470 or the Contempo.

I use a Paasche VL and an Aztek 370. I really prefer the Aztek overall (though the only complaint I have with the Paasche is tip dry). The one area that the Paasche is easier to use is in the trigger.

The Paasche trigger is "taller" if that makes sense. To go from no airflow to full airflow, i don't have to depress the 370 trigger hardly any distance. The Paasche has almost double the distance. This makes it easier to really get just the right airflow I want.

I'm looking at the Contempo or a 470 set, but I wondered how the trigger height is?

Also, on the 470's, does the hose detach from the body? On the 370 it's fixed.

Jon Bius

AgapeModels.com- Modeling with a Higher purpose

"For I know the plans I have for you," declares the Lord, "plans to prosper you and not to harm you, plans to give you hope and a future." ~ Jeremiah 29:11

  • Member since
    October 2005
  • From: Maryland
Posted by usmc1371 on Wednesday, September 13, 2006 8:40 AM

I got rid of a Badger 175 Cresendo.  I have two Aztek airbrushes, A320 and A470. 

I love my Aztek.

  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by ssgkopp on Tuesday, September 12, 2006 9:17 PM

i am so glad i threw away my stainless Paasche H and got my aztec no more worries execpt for maybe a little tip dry

 

gotta love your aztec

 

k

  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, September 12, 2006 10:07 AM
I thank God every morning when I wake up and eat my wheaties... that I threw away my Aztek... and returned to using a stainless Paasche H...
  • Member since
    March 2006
  • From: Right Side of a Left State
Posted by Shellback on Tuesday, September 12, 2006 12:44 AM

Waikong , you may have solved my problem . Ive been using the gray nozzle (9305 ) with my acrylics .I see there are 2 nozzles for acrylics .

Jesse , thanks for the answer about the thinner , i'll look for it .

Shell

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: high dry cold SC Colorado
Posted by rgbenson on Monday, September 11, 2006 9:36 PM
Hi All,

Like many of you, I use a variety of paints through the Aztek.  I read all the posts here, and you've all helped with your ideas and suggestions.

One other thing that seems to help is to put the nozzles in one of those cheapo WallyWorld (Wal Mart) ultrasonic  jewelry cleaners.  Don't do it with a volatile solvent since the solution can heat up, but with isopropyl or Windex it shouldn't be a problem.  I usually put water in the tank, and then put a smaller jar with the nozzles and cleaner in it, kinda like a double boiler.

A few minutes seems to get those tougher clumps out.

Cheers,

Rob



  • Member since
    October 2005
  • From: Maryland
Posted by usmc1371 on Monday, September 11, 2006 9:08 PM

There are two types of acrylic thinner made by Testors.  The first is Model Master Acryl Thinner.  The second is Model Master Acryl Detail and Fine Line Thinner.  This first is used for general thinning and cleaning.  The second is more aggresive and is used for fine line detailing.  Testors states that all of their Model Master Acryl paints (excluding the skin tones) are designed for airbrushing straight from the jar.  Unless, of course, you're doing detail work.  There is also Model Master Dried Acryl Cleaner which is great for final cleanup work.  If you're having excessive tip-dry, try reducing you air pressure.  Before I begin airbrushing with Acryl paints, I kept a Q-Tip moisten with Acryl Cleaner near by.  If the tip starts to dry, I rub the tip gently with the Q-Tip, shoot a blast of air into rag, and then go back to painting.

Jesse

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: NYC, USA
Posted by waikong on Monday, September 11, 2006 12:35 PM
 I use Tamiya Acrylic thinner which as a retarder built in for both Tamiya & MM paints. Usually its not a problem on my 470.  I also clean by the usual spraying until clear, then pull the nozzle out and dump in a small container of windex. Sometimes I even just leave the nozzle in there until the next time I need it with no problems (I'm tallking weeks of months!).  No on mentioned it, but Aztek makes 2 nozzles especially for Acrylic, the others are meant for enamel. I've noticed the acrylic nozzels do not clog as easily.
  • Member since
    March 2006
  • From: Right Side of a Left State
Posted by Shellback on Sunday, September 10, 2006 10:29 PM

Thanks Tho and k , sounds like im using the same thinner and pressure , only my reults w/MM are different . I'm gong to look for MM acrylic thinner ,if there is such a thinner , and if so use it . If that dont solve my clogging prob then its time to switch paint brands . 

Shell

  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by ssgkopp on Sunday, September 10, 2006 10:12 PM

most times i spray at 15 psi and really dont have any probs

 

 

k

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: SETX. USA
Posted by tho9900 on Sunday, September 10, 2006 9:05 PM

I've used MM acryl in the past and now I am an avid believer in Vallejo... With MM use Tamiya acrylic thinner, maybe add some retarder to it (you can get it in the paint section at Hobby Lobby or Michaels)

With Vallejo, using their own brand of thinner seems to do the trick although the retarder can help if you still have problems....

Good luck!!!!

---Tom--- O' brave new world, That has such people in it!
  • Member since
    March 2006
  • From: Right Side of a Left State
Posted by Shellback on Sunday, September 10, 2006 8:49 PM
 ssgkopp wrote:

I use Vallejo Acrylics model air line through my 470  I started getting cloged tips also and finally took them apart like it has been discussed and have had zero problems yet   i use both alcohol and windex to clean up everything after use   and then i continue to soak the tips in the windex till the next use and leave a little alchol in the paint cup of the ab to keep it alrdy to go

 

k


I havent tried the windex yet . I'm still getting some clogging using Tamiya acrylic thinner in MM acrylics . What air presure are you spaying at "k"?

Shell

  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by ssgkopp on Sunday, September 10, 2006 7:18 PM

I use Vallejo Acrylics model air line through my 470  I started getting cloged tips also and finally took them apart like it has been discussed and have had zero problems yet   i use both alcohol and windex to clean up everything after use   and then i continue to soak the tips in the windex till the next use and leave a little alchol in the paint cup of the ab to keep it alrdy to go

 

k


  • Member since
    July 2006
  • From: Dallas, TX
Posted by Plastic_Cross on Thursday, September 7, 2006 5:03 PM

Thanks Shell - I was using water/isopropyl solution for the MM acrylics, which is what the fellow at the hobby shop suggested.  I may try some other solvents to blend with the water to experiment with.  Has anyone tried using white wine/water mixture?  The ethyl alcohol in the wine maybe could produce a different characteristic than the isopropyl.  I probably won't pursue alternatives too vigorously since I'm fairly content using the Tamiya acrylics.

Zoloft seems to be working OK for me.  Helped me break out of the deep depression I was in for 2 years.  My new modeling hobby (just started a couple months ago) is also adding some zip to my life as well.

Best Regards,

Larry

  • Member since
    March 2006
  • From: Right Side of a Left State
Posted by Shellback on Thursday, September 7, 2006 1:59 PM

Larry hi . Ive been airbruhing for a few years and have primarily used MM enamels with few problems . However  my bad experience with MM acrylics has me stumped . I dont know if there is a acrylic thinner by MM but i have not found it locally , maybe using it could help .Have you used it ? I did have Tamiya's acrylic thinner and used it ,which did slow  the clogging problem some . I used it along with a acrylic paint floating medium which retards the drying time . Ive tried using isopropyl alcohol as a thinner with no success , it causes the paint to clog even faster in my experience .

So far my besrt results airbrushing MM flat acrylics are :

Thin with Tamiya X-20A acrylic thinner  

Add a few drops of acrylic paint Floating medium

Air pressure at 15 psi

Take a Prozac

Shell                                                                                                                            

  • Member since
    July 2006
  • From: Dallas, TX
Posted by Plastic_Cross on Thursday, September 7, 2006 11:03 AM
 Shellback wrote:

Ive tried spraying MM flat acrylics for the first time and have had a problem with the paint drying and clogging the head/needle assembly on my Aztec A470 and also on my Badger 150 . Never had this much trouble spraying Tamiya flat acrylics , although it also would clog the head eventually . It seems that MM acrylic has a more coarse pigment than Tamiya .

I'm a very new airbrush user, so I thought it might just be me - but I have had a similar experience with MM flat acrylic paint.  I have a Paasche VLS airbrush and find that the Tamiya flat acrylic paint flows flows better, clogs less often and gives better results.  But I still don't rule out the fact that I am a novice and it could be me that's doing something wrong to cause this.  I also notice that the MM paint has a very clear phase separation and requires a lot more mixing to get it homogenized than the Tamiya.  It's possible that I just didn't spend enough time mixing.

Larry

  • Member since
    March 2006
  • From: Right Side of a Left State
Posted by Shellback on Thursday, September 7, 2006 12:45 AM

Ive tried spraying MM flat acrylics for the first time and have had a problem with the paint drying and clogging the head/needle assembly on my Aztec A470 and also on my Badger 150 . Never had this much trouble spraying Tamiya flat acrylics , although it also would clog the head eventually . It seems that MM acrylic has a more coarse pigment than Tamiya .

I use lacquere thinner to clean my Aztec and so far (knock on wood ) havent had to disassemble the head assembly.

Ive unclogged my airbrush while spraying MM flat acrlics by dripping a few drops of lacquer thinner into the head assembly ( while airbrush is still assembled and hooked up to air hose )then blowing air only through it . Seems to clean it out for awhile but eventually it will clog the head / needle assembly again . This process slows up the paint job quite a bit .

Buy the way i'm spraying camoflauge with a soft over spray edge but get to much overspray with the MM flat acrylic . My results were much more satisfying with Tamiya flat acrylics .

I'm about ready to give up on the MM flat acrylics .

Any suggestions ?

Thanks

Shell

jwb
  • Member since
    February 2006
  • From: Parkton, NC
Posted by jwb on Tuesday, September 5, 2006 7:43 PM
I found I had to do the same thing when I started using Acrylics. It was giving me fits. Pulling the nozzle apart worked perfect.

I'd been using my Paasche VL and my Aztek 370 equally, but since I switched to acrylics, the Paasche has been giving me fits- tip dry like mad. The Aztek hasn't had the problem. I did find that the Paasche handled Tamiya well, so I ordered some more of that. But the Polly S- while it goes down nice- just dries right up.

Jon Bius

AgapeModels.com- Modeling with a Higher purpose

"For I know the plans I have for you," declares the Lord, "plans to prosper you and not to harm you, plans to give you hope and a future." ~ Jeremiah 29:11

  • Member since
    October 2004
  • From: Nelson, BC, Canada
Posted by paul_toz on Tuesday, September 5, 2006 4:38 PM
Hi,
I also used the previous article that Steve refers to and finally got my nozzles completely clean. Just one word of warning though, if your nozzle is really clogged and the centre 'pin' is reluctant to come out, watch out for the spring pinging off across the room. I disassembled 2 nozzles this way without a problem, but on the third, the spring launched and was never seen again.

Since using this technique my nozzles never get so dirty and I strip clean them after every session. I leave them assembled in a jar of thinner when not in use. I use acrylics 99% of the time.

Paul
  • Member since
    October 2003
Posted by denniscermak on Tuesday, September 5, 2006 3:51 PM
Thanks for the tip. I have the top of the line Aztec but have not run into a problem yet, but I have not sprayed Acrylics with it either. No problem with solvent based paints as yet. I do like the Aztec though.
  • Member since
    February 2006
  • From: Bedford, England
Posted by Tecs on Tuesday, September 5, 2006 2:09 PM
I leave my Aztek nozzles in AB cleaner overnight after a session and they come out like new in the morning

In Progress: Trumpeter ME262 75% Dragon M4A2 (76) DONE! Dragon Abrams AIM 25% Rob "Audere est facere"
  • Member since
    June 2004
  • From: Minnetonka, MN
Posted by ewc2003 on Tuesday, September 5, 2006 1:38 PM

Steve,

You're right about that... They say not to do it, but on my Aztek 4704 I usually disassembled it after each session before storing it again.  I just put the entire disassembled nozzle assembly in a small 1/2 oz glass jar with acrylic thinner and then let it sit for a few minutes.  After that it was usually pretty clean.  Still didn't dissuade me from buying a Badger Crescendo 175 though....

 

Matt ------------------------------------------------- "The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing." - Edmund Burke
  • Member since
    April 2005
  • From: USA
Aztek Experience
Posted by cruichin on Tuesday, September 5, 2006 1:03 PM

Hi All,

 

I wanted to share my experience with Aztek AB nozzles.

I was painting with very thinned MM acrylics and clogged three of my nozzles. I could not get them unclogged using my normal cleaning techniques - which had always worked in the past. I remembered the post of a few months ago (in French) describing how to disassemble the Ab and nozzles, so I tired it. The center pin assembly of the nozzles pulled right out and exposed the clogged interior. A little Windex later and I was back in business.

The mfr's warning says not to do this, but it saved me junking about $35 of equipment and becoming an Aztek hater! I never had a real problem with the AB or nozzles before. I pass this along to other Aztek users to deal with the problems they've had with the AB.

 

Steve

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