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Badger 155 Air Output 1/2 of Air Input.

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  • Member since
    June 2005
  • From: I'm here physically, but not mentally.....
Badger 155 Air Output 1/2 of Air Input.
Posted by MontanaCowboy on Sunday, September 17, 2006 10:15 PM

   My Anthem is acting up again (actually more like I'm acting up to my anthem). My compressor regulator is set at 20 psi, but you can tell something is blocking the airflow when you press the trigger. It isn't a spongy feel to the trigger, it feels just fine. The airbrush has been soaked and cleaned thoroughly. Everything is tight and correctly oriented.

When I put my hand in front of the airbrush and blow air,  it is appearant that it is only about 1/2 pressure output of what the regulator dictates, now what could cause this?

The airbrush will also not spray paint nor thinner.

I have also tried the 200 model A/B with the same hose and compressor, and it was more powerful when I pressed the button.

 

 

Hmmmm

"You know, Life is like a Rollercoaster. Sometimes you just die unexpectedly." No wait, that's not it.
  • Member since
    December 2004
  • From: Stockton,Ca
Posted by Hippy-Ed on Monday, September 18, 2006 6:30 AM
Sounds like it could possibly be the needle bearing is shot out. You'll more than likely need to send it into Badger for replacement of the bearing.


If you lose your sense of humor, you've lost everything
  • Member since
    January 2004
  • From: USA
Posted by MusicCity on Monday, September 18, 2006 6:55 AM
I don't think it's the needle bearing.  Air never flows through the main body of the airbrush, the only thing that should be there is paint.  The needle bearing simply keeps paint in the front of the brush.  Air flows through an air passage, through the head, and AROUND the nozzle.  This creates a low pressure area that pulls paint through the nozzle.

The most likely culprit is dried paint in the air passages and / or air valve.  Unscrew the head assembly and you'll see a hold bored along the bottom of the airbrush body to the area where the air valve screws in.  That's the air passage and occasiionally paint will accumulate in there.  You can use pipe cleaners soaked with lacquer thinner or tiny inter-dental brushes to clean it out.  Also check the holes on the head assembly.  There should be about six of them and you may need to unscrew the crown to see them.

To disassemble the air valve, remove it from the body.  Look on the bottom where the air hose screws in and you'll see a hexagonal hole.  Find an Allen wrench that fits that hole, and carefully unscrew the end of the air valve.  There are a spring and plunger inside.  Hold it over a box top or something so that if you drop things you can catch them.  Clean the air valve body, spring, and cap with lacquer thinner.  The plunger has a captive o-ring on it.  DO NOT use lacquer thinner on that as it could admage the o-ring.  Just use alcohol on a q-tip.

Scott Craig -- Nashville, TN -- My Website -- My Models Page
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Monday, September 18, 2006 11:25 AM

I agree with Scott. This same situation happened to me last summer. I swabbed the nozzle and needle with lacquer thinner and a very small amount of fluid and/or vapor got into the air valve assembly as I removed the needle to wipe it down. The air valve o-ring swelled up like a balloon. Had to remove it and let it air dry for a day or so to get it back to normal size. I now keep several o-rings on hand in case this happens again. Lesson learned: always remove the air valve if cleaning with lacquer thinner and make sure all of the thinner has evaporated before replacing. The only thing that I do different than what Scott mentioned is that I don't use thinner to clean the air valve, I use 90% isopropyl for the whole assembly if needed. HTH.

 

E

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