I have to disagree. I've been using acrylics almost exclusively for over twenty years, and I used to work in the paint industry:
ZzZGuy wrote: |
If your hand brushing acrylic paint for the first time, be warned that when applying serveral layers, each new layer you apply may be striped down to the plastic with the brushing action. Small parts that don't require much brusing are generaly safe. If you do encounter problems, i recommend putting on a clear coat inbetween layers, befor i got my airbrush i used testors dullcoat as it drys very fast and worked good for me (you don't need to use only this brand or type of clearcoat).
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I have never had such a problem with fully
cured (There is a difference between "dried" and "cured"!) acrylic paint on a clean surface. Brushed coats are generally thicker than sprayed coats, and thus take longer to cure after they have dried.
ZzZGuy wrote: |
I recommend enemal paint for hand brushing which i thin and clean the brushes using mineral sprits. The downside is it takes 24 hours to dry properly, <snip>
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To
cure properly, as do acrylics. In fact, hand brushed acrylics take longer to dry and cure. I'd wait at least 48 hours (varies with temperture and humidity)
ZzZGuy wrote: |
<snip>the brand name thinner as this is basicly the paint medium without any color added.
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Sorry, that is not the case (although a reasonable assumption). Thinner is solvent, or a solvent blend, possibly with additives (e.g., Tamiya thinner contains a retarder). Paints are formulated with a specific ratio of binder to pigment to solvent. Changing that ratio usually reduces the shelf life of the paint, sometimes drastically. Paints that have been thinned/diluted/"reduced" (the latter is the proper paint technology term) for spraying should not be stored for extended periods of time. They will
usually keep for the duration of a single project, provided that project does not run for a month.