Ref your quote "it seems a little dark". I have made some discoveries (or observations if you will)over the past years.
A. If you truly want to match the paint on a 1 to 1 scale item, you need to make a comparison with 1 to 1 paint. (everyone seems to see a color a little different if trying to match from memory)
B. Even in the real (1 to 1) world, a color from the same manufacturer will have differences ranging from nil to absurdly wild in differing batches. There are a multitude of reasons.
c. How was the paint applied (brush or spray), over what kind of surface (rough or smooth), what color of base (dark or light)? Each of these will have an effect on the final tone of the applied color.
d. Don't trust a color chart unless it is produced from the actual paint. Charts printed with inks will usually differ from charts printed with paint. (Get a Model Master paint chart and compare it with the actual Model Master paint - they'll be close but no match usually).
e. You need to go with what you feel comfortable with, cause you are building that model to please yourself. If you want, mix the green yourself - start with a 50/50 mixture of black and yellow and adjust the tone by adding black (darker) or yellow (lighter).
Thanks for letting me spout off - by the way I use Model Master Zinc Chromate because I think it is closest to the chromate I use on real airplanes and its easiest for me to get (Humbrol works well also).
Qmiester