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Switched to acrylics

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  • Member since
    December 2006
  • From: Langley, B.C. Canada
Switched to acrylics
Posted by sarge on Saturday, December 9, 2006 5:02 PM

In the interest of marital bliss, I am switching to acrylics in an effort to cut down on the fumes.  I hope to be using the acrylics for most projects which will be armor and military aircraft.  I plan to thin with isopropyl alcohol.  I am now looking for tried and true suggestions as to proportions, i.e. paint to thinner.  Also, if I make sure I clean new kit parts with detergent and water, do I need to prime?

If so, what are the better primers?   

 

  • Member since
    May 2005
  • From: Left forever
Posted by Bgrigg on Saturday, December 9, 2006 8:30 PM

Welcome to the world of less fumes, easier clean-up and Windex!

Thinning is dependent on many factors. The rule of thumb I use is the consistancy of 2% milk. I use Tamiya Acyrlics with their thinner and just eyeball the mixture, but if I were to put a number on it it would probably be 60% paint to 40% thinner. A caution when thinning acrylics with isopropyl is tip dry as the alcohol can dry so fast it clogs up your airbrush. Needle lube such as Badger's Regdab or the Iwata-Media Super Lube helps prevent that, and keeps the needle moving freely to boot! You may want to investigate using an acrylic retarder (found at places like Michael's) to slow down the drying time.

Using a primer is a matter of choice. Acrylics need time to cure and are often still "wet" even though they are dry to the touch. Before they are fully cured they are quite susceptable to lifting, especially if you use tape for masking with. Once they are cured you shouldn't have any problems. However there is no guarantees in life! I rarely use primers, but when I do I throw marital bliss to the wind and use Tamiya's AS-12 Aircraft rattle can for (duh) aircraft and their Primer for everything else. I've heard of good results with Krylon as well, but keep forgetting to buy some...

I also suggest giving the styrene a wipe with the isopropyl before painting to remove any residual detergent and oils from your hands.

Washing up acrylics is simple, I use Windex with ammonia. Windex will also remove acrylic paint in case of a booboo. 

One caveat, though. Even though acrylics aren't as smelly as enamels, they still smell. My wife if hypersensitive to odors and complained about the fumes until I bought a jar of enamel home and opened it. She has since realized that I'm going to need to paint with something and accepts the acrylics as the lesser of the evils. Good luck!

So long folks!

  • Member since
    January 2003
  • From: Peoples Socialist Democratic Republic of Illinois
Posted by Triarius on Saturday, December 9, 2006 11:14 PM
ONE WORD: SPRAYBOOTH.

No matter what you are spraying.

Thin Tamiya and Gunze with isopropyl. Thin PollyScale with water. Not sure what to use with the Testors lines, as I don't use them.

I always prime, using Tamiya flats. I cure the paint in a forced air food dehydrator (or wait a few days), and I've never had paint lift.

I'd post more, but there are technical difficulties between the forum and I.

Ross Martinek A little strangeness, now and then, is a good thing… Wink

  • Member since
    March 2006
  • From: Right Side of a Left State
Posted by Shellback on Thursday, December 14, 2006 1:02 AM
I use MM acrylics , my biggest problem with them is the drying tip . Otherwise i enjoy using them .
  • Member since
    January 2003
  • From: Peoples Socialist Democratic Republic of Illinois
Posted by Triarius on Thursday, December 14, 2006 8:50 AM
Shellback, you can reduce tip dry by using an acrylic retarder. I use Golden, but there are others by Liquitex, Createx, etc. About one tiny drop (I'd guess about 0.05 cc.) per 1 cc. of paint. This also improves the quality of the finish, but the paint takes longer to dry, and has to be protected from dust longer. Try it, I think you'll like the results.

Ross Martinek A little strangeness, now and then, is a good thing… Wink

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