Q about Silver paint....Grrrrrrr!!!

This is an enamel, I'm assuming.

It is possible that the pigment load is too high, due to evaporation from the original container. But it is more likely due to settling in your paint cup or "spraying dry." It sounds like the surface of the paint is "dusting." You would notice this effect immediately with an ordinary flat or especially a gloss paint—but metallic pigments are different in that they are flat particles, so they tend to lie flat on the surface, producing a normal appearance until you touch it.

Aggitate the paint in the airbrush cup, and use a slow evaporating solvent, or slightly more of it, as a reducer. Move the air brush a little closer to the surface, too.

I'd drop your air pressure, first.

What are you using for thinner? 

Any idea what the solvent(s) is(are) in the Testors thinner?

Try straight odorless mineral spirits and see if you get a better result.

gulfstreamV wrote:

Ed, I dont know what the solvent base is in Testors THINNER is either. But I do know Testors Silver#1146 has always had that problem (seal it with a clear prior too) Testors also has the Metalizer Lacquers in silver tints that should be sealed with their own sealer or equiv.? There is also Testors # 2734 Silver Chrome and MM # 2714 German Silver Metallic Enamel that you might want to try? Seal it is my best guess.       HTH

Hmmm, Now all this time I thought it was me with the problem!! and to learn Testors did this on purpose. Ok, Looks like I'll throw down the paint , let it set & shoot 'er with Future. Think that'll do the trick? Or, do I go ahead & try this stuff I got in a rattle can called "Crystal Clear Glaze" (by Krylon) says it works on plastics,paper, wood, metal....

Hey Bro, you been using the Testors 1/4 oz 1146? Chuck it in the trash, or save it for touch ups. For major spraying, next time use their 3 oz rattle can 1246. For some reason the spray can gives much better results and don't worry about your AB getting jealous.  I found that the older those 1/4 oz bottles get, the nastier they are to dry. Also the metalics such as silver and gold don't appreciate being thinned.

Clue for Ross... maybe?  The silver paint tends to act with age like it hand linseed oil added to it. You know how old timers used to add some linseed oil to enamel paint to retard the drying time. Add just a bit too much and you end up with a gooey never to dry sticky layer of... well you get the idea.

I'm not so sure I would want to shoot a coat of clear over a non-cured layer of paint. Ed, have you tried putting it close to a non-flammable heat source for maybe a few days? If the silver coat can smudge now and you paint over it, it will always be smudgeable (I know, not a real word LOL).
  

Hey Jim, Haven't seen ya around lately! Dang glad ta see ya!! Hmmm, so, this stuff don't have much of a shelf life huh? That's interesting to learn. I guess I could see if they have hte rattle can at Michael's next time I get up that way.

I'm in no rush on this & as for a non flammable heat source, I don't have anything around here.

Thanks for the run down.

Eddie 

I've been super busy with college. Just finished finals for this semester, pulled off A's & a B+. Next semester doesn't start until 1/8/07 so I get a big break. Well kind of, been working on the online shop and well, going nuttier.

It's hard to tell exactly how long those little bottles have been sitting on a shelf even before you get them. Also the metalics like to be stirred and shaken constantly as the pigments settle quickly. You'll have to constantly shake the can while spraying, but it comes out nice.

Duh...   It is a lot warmer where you are compared to where I am. So maybe just letting the model sit for a few days might help??

If you have a Wally World near you, they usually carry that color too.

I haven't used Testor's enamels for years, but now that Jim mentions it, I do recall that there was a drying oil in their metallics at one time.

This can also lead to problems with shelf life if there is a small loss of solvent. That's when the retarding effect (not true retardation) of the oil can cause havoc. I still also suspect a high pigment load.

Metallics generally have a lower shelf life than other paints, regardless of system, because of the oddities of the pigment, and the problems with formulation that makes necessary.

Rattle cans of metallic have a very definite shelf life (buy only as much as you will use on one project!) but it is usually very easy to tell when they have gone "off."

Off topic: Congratulations on your success in college, Jim! Glad to hear it!

I'm not sure what the difference in carriers are between the metallics and regular enamels, but you can see a difference when the pigments settle out.

Regarding the shelf life - I have had some bottles now for two years that I am still using for brushing small items. They are starting to show the need for replacement as it is taking longer to dry (overnight and the next day). The cans I sometimes buy 2 at a time, 1 for the current project and 1 for the next. The longest I've had an un-used can on the shelf is about a year and it worked just fine. Used cans I use up rather quickly so I don't know how long they can sit around for.

Just a few more words for thought, or ramblings on...

Off topic: Thank you Ross!

It seems that this was a good topic for discussion Seems I am learning something from you guys about paint!!  Now would the Aluminum paint react the same as the silver or is that a different formula?

Oh, and Jim, Congrats on the college stuff. I know you've been workin' & studyin' hard there my friend

The aluminum and silver are probably very similar in composition.

Something most people don't know: Almost all metallic pigments, regardless of color, are aluminum. The pigment particles are given a different coating to produce different colors. 

Chimera wrote:

Hrm.  I would have seen that base as a perfect excuse to try out a foil application project.  Have you considered that approach?

Doh!! I shoulda thought of that!! Now I just shot the last coat of flat black a little bit ago and now you've given me an idea.... an I still do the foil on it where I want the silver? Now I've been meaning to try foiling my projects sometime & yeah, thiis would be a fairly simple test run....

Hippy-Ed wrote:

Now would the Aluminum paint react the same as the silver or is that a different formula?

Oh, and Jim, Congrats on the college stuff. I know you've been workin' & studyin' hard there my friend

jhande wrote:

Hippy-Ed wrote: Now would the Aluminum paint react the same as the silver or is that a different formula? To be honest with you Eddie, they seemed like exactly the same paint just with different labels on the bottle.    Oh, and Jim, Congrats on the college stuff. I know you've been workin' & studyin' hard there my friend Thank you bro! I have a long way to go still. Hope this doesn't kill me, I know all this thinking makes my brain hurt. LOL

Ok, Thanks Jim, I think I am gonna try to foil this bad boy, just need to pick up some glue to do so.

And didn't ya know, thinking IS Hazardous to one's health?!! I wish ya the best on your studies. Happy New Year to you & the family my friend 

Hippy-Ed wrote:

And didn't ya know, thinking IS Hazardous to one's health?!!

For some, thinking may indeed be hazardous to health…

…but not thinking is hazardous to life!

Triarius wrote:

Hippy-Ed wrote:   And didn't ya know, thinking IS Hazardous to one's health?!! For some, thinking may indeed be hazardous to health… …but not thinking is hazardous to life!

This is true

Here's an update om what I've decided to do....

So far I have 1 part foiled (left wing on the base) my first foil attempt and thought I'd show ya

Grante, it aint done but hey, at least I'm givin' it a shot I see I have some practice to do yet