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MM Metalizer paints

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  • Member since
    November 2005
MM Metalizer paints
Posted by ssgkopp on Saturday, January 13, 2007 12:04 PM

I want to use these to paint up a resin 1/72 B5 thunderbolt but have a few questions

1.     Looking at the testors webpage and guide section it says to paint directly to unprimed plastic does that work the same with resin kits 

2.  Do i need to use the Metalizer sealer before i put on decals or can i use any top coat

3. what would you recommend for drying time in between coats of paint   

 

any suggestions would help out as i really do not want to destroy my work

 

thx guys

 

 

  • Member since
    May 2006
Posted by MortarMagnet on Saturday, January 13, 2007 12:25 PM
Are you refering to the pre-thinned AB metalizers?
Brian
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by ssgkopp on Saturday, January 13, 2007 12:29 PM

yes the buffing and non buff sort

 

http://www.internethobbies.com/tesmetpain12.html

  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by ssgkopp on Monday, January 15, 2007 7:09 PM

cant anybody help me out here

 

  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Monday, January 15, 2007 7:29 PM
yes you can paint the rsin with it..it dries rather fast 10-20 minutes,after that you can use the sealer (or any laquer based clear,or even Future)...if your buffing for a shine ,do that before the sealer...i've used the system for years,it's pretty good stuff,,,,WEAR A MASK!
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by ssgkopp on Monday, January 15, 2007 8:31 PM
thankyou very much for the help
  • Member since
    May 2006
Posted by MortarMagnet on Monday, January 15, 2007 11:47 PM
Yeah, they do dry fast.  I've had some of the prethinned ones dry fast enough to touch in less than 5 minutes.
Brian
  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: NYC, USA
Posted by waikong on Tuesday, January 16, 2007 8:56 AM

Regarding the sealer, you have to use something as the metalizer will continue to rub off your fingers if you don't seal it. Also without sealing, the decals adhesion will be very poor. The bad part about the sealer is that it will dull the shine a bit you just lovingly buffed into your plane. I've switched to Alcad now since it does not require a sealer and its associated problems. However, I still use Testor MM for smaller areas for color variation.

  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by ssgkopp on Monday, January 22, 2007 7:48 PM
another question is it better use use a gravity feed or siphon cup when spaying these paints
  • Member since
    February 2006
  • From: Southeast Louisiana
Posted by Wulf on Monday, January 22, 2007 8:18 PM

I use siphon and have had no problems. Either way will do.

Andy 

  • Member since
    April 2005
  • From: Piscataway, NJ!
Posted by wing_nut on Wednesday, January 24, 2007 10:47 AM
Take care if any masking needs to be done.  The metalizer have a relatively weak sruface and the seal/top coat can peel away with the mask removal.  Unless oyu have a ton of the metalizers to get rid of, consider the AlcladII as previously mentioned.  It is a superior product that dries fast, hard and takes masking quite well.

Marc  

  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by ssgkopp on Sunday, February 4, 2007 11:40 AM
hey guys have to thanlyou all for the help put down a flat black primer and then shot my first coat of metalizer and it worked great i wish all paints covered htis well and came ready out of the bottle

now im going to use parafilm of wet paper masks to darker alot of panels with a new color


thx again
  • Member since
    October 2005
  • From: Maryland
Posted by usmc1371 on Monday, February 5, 2007 6:56 AM

 ssgkopp wrote:
i wish all paints covered htis well and came ready out of the bottle


thx again

Just FYI, Model Master Acryl paints cover great and can be airbrushed straight from the bottle.

-Jesse

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