Hey guys, let me start off by saying that I've already learned alot by reading posts from the last 10 pages or so - great forum!
As for me, the last time I built was models was like ~20 years ago... and my painting experience was basically crack open a bottle of Testor's paint, dip brush, and voila! Lumpy, not quite like the nice pics on the box... (I've always wondered why...)
For no apparent reason whatsoever, I purchased a few models and a Badger airbrush (single action)... I now I think I'm ready to brave the model world again... at least I was until I read all the complexities of this hobby... as stated at the beginning of this soon to be "novel of questions", I've learned quite a bit reading, but hopping on a bike without training wheels isn't exactly helpful either, so here goes my list of questions (super basic/newbie compared to other Q/A's that I've read, so please bear with me!)
1. Brush question: I tried to paint a "beater" model with paint mixed with thinner (Testors, paint to thinner ratios: 1:1, 2:1), single coat - it didn't look like the paint stuck very well - the pigment was all uneven, looked like the mixture was too watery, runny even (does that make sense?). Is it suppose to be like that? if so, how many coats do I put on? Will additional coats give it a even color when done? I ask about brush painting for the smaller things, like pilots, wheels, etc. - or do you hardcore enthusiasts just use the airbrush for everything?
2. Airbrush primer layer - does it have to be a different color than the final coat? I know cars have a different color, but I never understood why? Is there a special primer paint, or any other color will do? I've read about using lighter/darker colors as a primer in one of the other posts already, but never fully understood the need of a primer layer.
3. Airbrush ventilation - if I do the spraying in a open area (eg. backyard) - do I still need a booth? A respirator? Or is that only for enclosed areas, like indoors? I was planning on using one of those simple masks that you get at Home Depot for $2 in the back yard...
4. Having gone on a purchasing frenzy for airbrush and models, I just spent approx. $400+; but didn't get a compressor... (stupid, stupid me). I actually cancelled (replaced) two bottles of that canned propellant stuff from my recent order of kits after reading this forum and decided to look for a compressor - any recommendations of a cheap/discounted place to get compressor, water trap, regulator? Have to get it ASAP before CC bill arrives and girlfriend decides to hurt me...
5. Painting (again) - one of the things I remember is that if I apply another layer of (unthinned) paint over an existing layer of (again, stupid me, unthinned) paint, it seems that the previous layer gets "wet" again and causes one huge sticky mess... is that normal? Or will that problem go away if I let the first lay dry for over 24hrs? (Testor's little bottles)
6. Painting - Testor's paint + Testor's plastic cement = dissolved paint + sticky mess. Again, is that just me? What happens if you have to glue something after painting it (and the glue touches the paint)?
7. Glue suggestions - I used the same Testor's plastic cement as I did 20 years ago, so don't know of any better solutions. The one thing that used to******me off was the "strings" of 1/2 dried glue sticking to my fingers, the model, and everything in between (also happend when I tried to use a toothpick). Is there a better way? A better glue?
8. Putty - again, Testor's putty (it was next to the Testor's glue) - doesn't seem to work very well... but then again, I'm not too bright when it comes to models apparently... suggestions? I'd apply a stream of that milky white stuff along the seam (making sure the gaps are filled), then sand down leftovers... but it just doesn't seem right somehow...
9. Thinner - apparently, this is used for everything! I found a large bottle of this stuff on a recent expedition to the hobby store only to find that there's one labeled for airbrushes, another for regular use... what, why, and how???
10. Paint (yet again) - how do I know when a paint is properly mixed with thinner? Somebody posted that they'd wait for 3 drops, any more/less would call for more/less thinner.
11. Model Master enamels ok? I thought they were better that the Testors ones on a recent test run on a poor, butchered P47 Thunderbolt that I've been experimenting with. By the way, I only have Testor's thinner - that should work ok with the MM paints right?
12. Strain through a nylon before using paint - I thought the thinner was used to break up/thin out the clumps already?
13. Any tips on the more "detailed" items? I was trying to paint the wheels on the landing gear, and was very unsuccessful in painting the rim of the wheel a different color that the wheel (white hub, black wheel) - and whenever the white came in contact with the black... sticky, grey mess. I actually used thinner to clean off the paint (2x in 2 attempts), and am now considering "priming" the whole wheel in white, then attempt to paint the wheels black with a brush afterwards.
14. Clear plastics - sometimes I find that when I cut off a clear piece from the moldings (canopy, windshield, etc.), it leaves a "translucent" edge when the joint was - is this normal?
15. "Finish' - whats that? Same as clear coat?
16. Camo - scares the hell outta me... I can't even paint an even coat of 1 color, much less various camo designs. I know most modelists strive for "authentic accuracy", but for me, I just want to be able to create a good looking coat for now - even if it means painting a WWII fighter in either all Navy Blue or Chrome for now even though its suppose to have greys, browns, blues, and greens for camo. Any tips for creating realistic camo patterns?
(If you're still with me...) Thanks for reading my novel. Feel free to answer as few or as many questions as you can... any help (esp. with the painting parts) would be helpful!
Thanks in advance!