What paints do you use (and why)

I mostly use Games Workshop paints. One of my favorite thing about those is that the containers are completely transparent, so i can easily and clearly see what i'm buying.

I also use Vallejo stuff occasionally.

I prefer the water based acrylics to the enamel paints mainly because they are so easy to thin. 

I use Floquil lacquers, MM enamels, Humbrol enamels, White Ensign enamels, And Tamiya and Gunze arylics.

     #1 - Floquil lacquers:  These can be found in the Model Railroad section of your hobby shop. They airbrush easily, and I usually get one-coat coverage.  This is especially true with "Reefer White" and "Old Silver."  I use the Old Silver as a base for natural metal finishes on aircraft.  DO NOT use these on top of enamels or acrylics!  Thin with either Floquil Airbrush Thinner or lacquer thinner.  Cleans up with lacquer thinner.  NOTE:  Fumes can be toxic!

     #2 - MM, Humbrol enamels:  Easy to use, but better results by airbrushing, and an excellent range of colors.  DO NOT use on top of acrylics,  but may be used on top of lacquers or enamels of the same manufacturer.  Thin with the manufacturer you're using thinner.  Cleans up with thinner or lacquer thinner.  NOTE:  Fumes may be toxic.

     #3 - Tamiya and Gunze acrylics:  Good brush painting coverage, usually does not leave brush strokes.  Thin with either mfgrs thinner.  (The Tamiya thinner smells like alcohol - but haven't used alcohol to thin).  Do not use lacquers or enamel on top of acrylics, but may be used on top of lacquers and enamels without problems.  Thin with distilled water.  Not toxic, although there is an odor that is not objectionable.

I have left out White Ensign enamels, as I just purchased them (the Japanese WWII colors), and have NOT tried to airbrush them.  Have brush painted them, and they cover well without brush marks.

As an aside, I also make a paint chip card when I open a new paint.  I take a 3 x 5 card, cut it  in half width-wise so that I have two (2) 3 x 2 1/2 cards.  Along the top, I write the Manufacturer, and the stock number; along the bottom I write the description (i.e. Red; Blue Angels Blue, etc) and the matching FS number.  Then I put the color chips in numerical order (NOT FS number, but company stock number), put some double-stick tape on the back, and place it on a sheet of heavy paper, and then put them in a plastic document protector, and store in a notebook.  I've completed all my MM paints, Floquil lacquers, and Tamiya and Gunze acrylics.  I've got a lot of Humbrol left to do.

So, hope this helps.

Mainly Tamiya Acrylics with a few MM.

I started back into the hobby building Tamiya models and it was very easy to match the colors. 

I imagine I'll expand once I get more diverse in my building.  

   I use MM enamels and Testors Acryl acrylics.  I was given about 5 different colors of Tamiya acrylics about five years ago, but wasn't impressed, although at that time I had no airbrush and only brushed them on. They seemed not to spread evenly.    There is a much wider selection of the MM and Testors stuff here in town also.  Can't afford to buy a bunch of different brand paints to experiment with, and I'm happy with what I use now.

Chris

I've used enamels for close to 50 years and currently have no reason nor desire to change.  If you take a look at my paint storage area you will find Testors MM, Testors, Humbrol and even a few bottles of Pactra which are perfectly usable.  I've found two types of bulk thinners (Laquer thinner and one of DuPont's enamel reducers) both of which will thin all three brands very well (try that with acrylics).  Of the three hobby shops I usually do business with, all three carry enamels.  Plus enamels currently have a wider range of color mixes than acrylics do.  As far as the toxic nature of enamels, I'm sorry I'm going to take the same precautions with acrylics as I do with enamels (paint booth, respirator and rubber gloves - although acrylics aren't as toxic as enamels, I still don't think a coating of plastic particles will do much good for my lungs).  And lastly, I don't have the money it would take to replace the enamels I have in stock.

My suggestion is this:  Try several types/manufacturers paints on several models and then make up your mind on which paint you want to go with.  No matter what I or the other folks here say, it's you who have to make the final decision on what you're happy/comfortable with.  Good luck 

I use a combination of the aforementioned Tamiya acrylics, and Gunze Sangyo acrylics.

Both spray beautifully, but Gunze are definitely better for brush painting, as Tamiya acrylics have a tendency to lift with the second coat.

Karl 

I primarily use Tamiya acrylics.  I like the range of color, they can be found at just about every online hobby store (there are no hobby stores local to me), they clean up real easy and they don't stink up the joint.

I just ordered some Testors MM acrylics for an upcoming project, so I'll get to see how those behave and I always have some testors enamels for little parts that I can brush on.

-Fred

When I first started building I didnt know there was anything but enamels.

I'm going with acrylics on my return to the hobby. Cheaper, easier to find, more colors, less odor, easier to mix, fast clean up.

Question? Are the acrylics found in craft stores for use on ceramics OK to use?

I use almost exclusively Tamiya Acrylics.  The main reason is the availability.  The closest store always have the Tamiya bottles in stock and they are cheap.  I like them also because I prefer playing with alcohol and windex for thinning and cleaning than mineral spirit or lacquer thinner.

This is for the main painting sessions.  But I also have several bottles of Testors enamels for metallic colors such as Silver, Gold, Bronze, Copper, Aluminium, etc...  I like the way it turns out.  Tamiya metallic colors sucks, especially gold.  Their gun metal and metallic grey are not bad but I prefer enamels.

For weathering, I recently bought some Artist oils and I will never use anything else from now on.  They are fantastic for washes.

I heard very good things about Vallejo Acrylics, especially for figure painting, and I will probably buy some in a near future.  I also heard they were not easy to airbrush so I'll stick to the Tamiya for general painting.

I'm using Vallejo acrylics, mostly, and some enamels. Results are excellent, except for white color. I still can't get good enough results with white. Why I use Vallejo? Well, they are good, they come in handy plastic bottles with droppers, so you can use one drop, or five, or twenty, and no paint is wasted.

I use polly scale acrylics for some obscure colors. Acclads for metalics, amongst others. And so on. If I'd had Auto Air anyone close, I would definitely use them. Clear coats are necessary anyway.