Painting raised areas using liquid mask

Stretchie,

I just got a copy of Mike Ashey's "Basics of Ship Modeling, the Illustrated Guide" yesterday and realized he does the opposite of what I did--- he paints the vertical surfaces first, then masks them and then paints the horizontal surfaces.  I can't find any discussion in there about why one approach would be better than the other, but maybe someone out there can enlighten me.  I'm forging ahead with what I did and hoping for the best.  If there is a fatal flaw in this approach I'll just have to learn it the hard way (won't be the first time.....)

TomB

Well...as my photo-etch post reveals, I have the 1/350 Fletcher coming. I am interested in your results.

From what I've seen, I think you will have nice crisp edges.

Since the Fletcher will be my first try at the camo'd superstructure, I've watching what everyone else is doing.  

Stretchie,

I haven't tried liquid mask for the purpose you are using it for, but I'm experimenting with using it to help mask all the painted horizontal surfaces in preparation for painting all the vertical surfaces of the Fletcher Class destroyer I'm working on.  I'm using masking tape to cover the majority of the surface area and then using liquid mask at the edges overlapping onto the masking tape.  I'm hoping when I pull up the masking tape the liquid mask will come with it and I'll have nice clean edges.  I'm painting over the next week or so and I'll let you know how it works.  If anyone else has used liquid mask in this way, I'd be interested to hear about their results.

TomB

Thanks for the info. images uploaded

This was my first time trying this technique, but I think it came out pretty well. This example needs a little touch up, but far easier than what I did earlier. You can see the progression in these pics.

Starting with the nameplate:

Sprayed Tamiya XF-1 for the background 

The liquid mask I tried. no idea if there is better, this was my first try 

notice the buildup on the left......it comes into play later....  

the nameplate after I removed the mask. the mask came off pretty easy. I used an old dull #11 exacto blade to carefully get under the mask.  note the discoloration on the left where there was buildup.....in the future, i will make sure that i remove that buildup.

all in all I'm happy with the way it turned out. I will make slight adjustments next time.

I haven't encountered any other situation that I could use this on, but I haven't even touched the surface of modeling yet.

I hope this helps someone out. My chance to give back to a forum that has given me so much.

Try http://www.freeimagehosting.net/ . No fuss whatsoever, you don't need even to register, just upload your pisc right away.

I would very like to see your examples. I myself use another method - airbrush letters silver, wait for 24 hours, airbrush whole thing black and quickly (quickly because I use fast-drying Vallejo acrylics) but carefully wipe black from letters with a cloth. Results are completely satisfying, and I'll post an example, once I'll find that damn camera...

However, me being primary plastic sailing ship modelled, I need to paint much more complicated ornaments, so I'm looking for new methods. Have you tried your method on something other than letters?