Best Primer for Testors Acryl Paints

I have not been using Acryl paints very long myself, but the times I have used them I always shot them over a well-cured enamel grey primer and as of yet I have not had a problem with any lifting. In regards to your inquiry about their compatability with other acrylics, so far all I have done along those lines is spray clear coats over them (both glosses [Future] & flats [Tamiya flat base/Future or Pollyscale flat/satin]) and I am happy with the results so far, but as I said, my experience with them is limited, so hopefully another forum member will be along with a more in-depth response.

I am certain I am going to invite a flood of contraversial disagreement here, but if and when I feel like priming (which I only tend to do with metallic or bright colors like red, yellow, white), I tend to use Testors flat enamels, as they are compatible.

But, having said that, I have not yet tried the Testors primers, and as I understand they work well on metal surfaces, like the stupid PE dive brakes that came with my Accurate Minitures SB2C.

Tom

Ruddrat-

I had no idea that Acrylic paint would even work on an Enamel base coat! I thought the Acrylic would peel right off. When you say "well-cured Enamel base coat" do you mean 24hrs or more?

Thanks for the advice everyone.

MattSix,

I use Testors Acryl and Polly Scale acrylics almost exclusively and I usually prime no matter what color I'm overcoating with. I use a light gray – Acryl has a primer in their range that works pretty well, but any light gray or white works well. I have used enamels under acrylics with no ill effects but I let the enamels sit a long time before overcoating them to minimize any chance they might come through the acrylics. I have also used Tamiya, Gunze Sangyo, Vallejo and Badger ModelFlex paints over one another with out problems.

Hope this helps.

Matt...yes, I let my enamel primer coats set up overnight, usually 24 hrs.

Thanks to everyone for the advice. I really appreciate it. My LHS has a huge selection of Testors MM Acryl paints and Enamels. They do have some Tamiya Acrylics, but the color choices are limited.  Glad to hear that mixing brands shouldn't cause any problems.

Question for Arron-do you have any issues with the MM Acrylic when removing any masking tape when using MM Acrylic Primer?  I have on occasion and now use Krylon (spray can and a trip to the garage).

bobbaily wrote:

Question for Arron-do you have any issues with the MM Acrylic when removing any masking tape when using MM Acrylic Primer?  I have on occasion and now use Krylon (spray can and a trip to the garage).

Bobbaily,

Yes. I have had that problem, usually in odd areas of the model such as corners, etc. I surmise that there are a couple of possible causes for this: 1) improperly prepared plastic. If that stuff's not perfectly clean, then the paint can lift. 2) Getting the paint too thick in places (such as corners, where the paint tends to pool).

Obviously, the acrylic doesn't adhere to the plastic as well as enamels to. I have tried Tamiya spray can primer before under the paint to no ill effect.

I, like one of the other members above mentioned, used to live in a place where Testors paints were my only option, and have always preferred acrylics, so me and the Acryl line are well acquainted.

I may try the Krylon paints next. Thanks for the tip!

Aaron Skinner wrote:

I, like one of the other members above mentioned, used to live in a place where Testors paints were my only option, and have always preferred acrylics, so me and the Acryl line are well acquainted. I may try the Krylon paints next. Thanks for the tip!

I am not sure if you realized this or not Aaron, but Krylon is the good spray paint you can get at your local Wal-Mart hardware dept.

Tom

T_Terrific wrote:

I am not sure if you realized this or not Aaron, but Krylon is the good spray paint you can get at your local Wal-Mart hardware dept. Tom

Tom,

I've used a couple of their colors for projects before. They have a pretty nice silver (I don't remember the name) but it went on pretty thin with a pretty fine grain. Liked it alot.

How about Mr. Surfacer 1000

Chuck B.

I'm achicken when it comes to mixing mediums, so I usually prime with Acryl flat black. IMO it gives depth to the details and it's a lot easier to see the spots you missed.

To help "seal" the paint for masking, hit your build with some future and let it cure 24hrs. Then tape away!  After masking spary with more furtue to "seal" the tape and prevent seapage!