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MM enamel (for brushed on parts) Gumming up!

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  • Member since
    January 2007
Posted by Gigatron on Monday, April 30, 2007 8:56 AM

I hate brush painting (both enamels and acrylics from any manufacturer) because of the whole gumming up issue. 

I find that when working from an open container, they tend to skin over way too quickly.  And since you generally only dip the tip of the brush into the paint, it tends to drag a bit of the dried paint with it, which really makes a mes of things.  I find that I have to continously stir the paint in order to give myself some working time.

But besides the stirring, dip your brush in a little bit of thinner, wipe a majority of it off and then dip it in the paint.  Then clean the brush thouroughly every so often, so it's like starting with a new brush.  The little bit of thinner not only keeps the paints from gunking up in the brush, but helps it flow better as well so you don't get brush marks.

As for the coverage with the white, I have the same problem.  I just have to settle for making 3 or 4 passes, allowing each coat to dry first.

-Fred

 

  • Member since
    January 2003
  • From: Peoples Socialist Democratic Republic of Illinois
Posted by Triarius on Sunday, April 29, 2007 10:08 AM

The gumming may be related to rapid drying. A small amount of retarder or thinner may help, as will raising the relative humidity in the workroom. There are, however, a host of other possible problems, starting with bad paint and including an unfortunate change in formulation. The latter you can do little about, except complain to the manufacturer. If they get enough complaints, they may fix the problem.

Coverage with many whites is often a problem. First, make sure that the paint has been thoroughly mixed. The pigment used in white (titanium dioxide) is relatively heavy, compared to some, and may settle harder than most. Undercoating white with silver will help a great deal. Also, flat whites tend to have better hide than gloss whites.

And I second Jon's endorsement of Polly Scale. I use that and Tamiya almost exclusively. Tamiya is a more difficult paint to work with, at times, but I like the results I get. Polly Scale isn't quite as good a detail paint for brushing, but it produces a wonderful finish and is a joy to use. 

Ross Martinek A little strangeness, now and then, is a good thing… Wink

jwb
  • Member since
    February 2006
  • From: Parkton, NC
Posted by jwb on Sunday, April 29, 2007 7:41 AM

 MaxPower wrote:
I have found Pollyscale acrylics to be an excellent brushing paint, but I can't speak first hand on the coverage of their white.

Pollyscale white brushes on as does their other colors- very nice- but like most white paints, it takes a few coats when brushing. A base coat may help to give the paint something to hold on to better. It airbrushes great. I can cover most parts in one coat satisfactorily.

Jon Bius

AgapeModels.com- Modeling with a Higher purpose

"For I know the plans I have for you," declares the Lord, "plans to prosper you and not to harm you, plans to give you hope and a future." ~ Jeremiah 29:11

  • Member since
    June 2006
  • From: Calgary
Posted by MaxPower on Saturday, April 28, 2007 10:24 PM
I have found Polyscale acrylics to be an excellent brushing paint, but I can't speak first hand on the coverage of their white.
  • Member since
    April 2007
  • From: Bethlehem PA
Posted by crazygerman on Saturday, April 28, 2007 10:10 PM
i'll agree, i've found that MM flat black never comes out right, other colors brush on just fine but flat black always gums up too quick
“It’s the unconquerable soul of man, not the nature of the weapon he uses, that insures victory.” -George S Patton Jr. On the Bench; 71 "Cuda
  • Member since
    February 2006
  • From: Boston
MM enamel (for brushed on parts) Gumming up!
Posted by Wilbur Wright on Saturday, April 28, 2007 9:16 PM

I am a very experienced modeler and over the last 6 months or so I have found that MM flat black and flat white have been gumming up on me when using on brushed on segments of models.

Its inevitable, for instance, on a complex ship model that many parts cannot be airbrushed because of the construction sequence.

I'm also finding it very difficult with flat white to get coverage over molded  light grey styrene. I will often even prime with MM camo grey to help get a more even coat than 2 coats of MM flat whit and still not total coverage.

 

WHAT IS UP WITH THIS? THE PAINT IS LIKE WATER (btw Tamiya is worse) ......what is the best covering ENAMEL flat white.

Note all MY paint is always fresh and new. I usually end up throwing out half a bottle.

HAVE TESTORS CHANGE THE CHEMISTRY OF THIER PAINT?  This is not so far fetched as Benjimin Moore (for instance) have greatly fallen out of favor with pro house paniters for changing their formula.

COMMENTS???? 

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