Mr. Resin?

I have not used Mr. Resin but I have talked to a couple of people that have used it with less than spectacular results.

I use Mr. Surfacer for my priming, both 1000 and 1200, but this is AFTER I have layed on Duplicolor Sandable Primer to fill pinholes and take care of the typical resin problems.  

 If you are new to figures, I have a couple of suggestions.

1: soak the figure in Castrol Super Clean for several days.  Some of these kits (especially the Asian kits) come loaded with oil and the CSC cleans this off. Rinse THOROUGHLY. I have left several figs in the stuff for a month with no affect other than being clean when they come out.

2: Get several grits of soft sanding foam that looks like the rubber stuff you put plates on to keep them from sliding around.  This is in Walmart now and is purple in color, I believe 3M makes it. It is wonderful for figure work.  Also grab some 000 steel wool. 

3: Duplicolor sandable primer in light grey is your freind!  I went thru two cans of this plus most of a can of typical red primer on my Beach Girl figure. I learned a LOT on her!  The light grey primer in two light coats will show all the pinholes.  Sanding reveals pinholes. Pinholes are a way of life with resin on any scale ( I build 1/6 scale mainly)

4: Get a light blue, orange and black sharpie marker.  Run the orange sharpie over the legs, arms, sides of the chest, head, feet, etc where the mold line is, to help show it off. Lightly sand with one of the purple sanding pads or 000 steel wool to lightly remove MOST of the the sharpie; it will remain in the low spots that need to be filled where the mold was mismatched. Even the very best figures will need some cleanup.  Fill/sand away as needed, and use the light blue marker next along the area you just cleaned, to reveal what depressions remain.  You should not have to go to the third color if your putty work is good.

4: filling pinholes--when you find your pinholes, drill them out just a bit more to make them easier to access.  Mix talcum powder with medium superglue on scrap whatever and make a paste like toothpaste, and immediately set this into your drilled out pinhole.  A #70 drill is fine for this. Pack the SG/T mix in let dry ten minutes, then wet sand and finish off with 000 steel wool. Finish will be plastic smooth and you are ready to reprime that area. Dont let this sit overnight as it will harden. This mix will not shrink the way putty and Mr. Surfacer 500 does, and I use it extensively now in my modeling.  

5 On large/heavy figures pin the legs, hands, head, arms , feet, etc together with wire, just bore it out and glue with epoxy. I have had superglue fail in this situation several times, and I was NOT happy about that! 

6: When you have your filler work and everything else, go ahead and prime with Mr. Surfacer. I am loving the stuff in the spray can that I got from Bobe's in Pensacola.  I actually like this better than the airbrushable reduced bottled variety, but I still use a lot of that for quick general filling and seam work.

Hope this and the following photos help

the photos are of my Usimutu which is at this current stage, and I am now ready to paint...someday! 

David