Airbrushing for beginners..

Zombee wrote:

Hi All, I have taken up modelling again after a long hiatus.  I'm into armor and have always used brushes.  Now I want to use an airbrush so I have a few questions; Do I need a 'spray booth'? Do I put the kit together first or spray parts one at a time? Do I need to mix the paint with thinners first to use in the spraygun? Do I need to do an 'undercoat'? I've done a search but am having trouble answering these questions. Cheers Zombee

Do I need a 'spray booth'?

If you're not going to be building a lot of models then it really isn't essential. As long as you're working in a well ventilated area it should be fine.

Do I put the kit together first or spray parts one at a time?

Often it's easier to put together as much as you can which will be painted the same colour and paint as a sub-assembly, particularly if assembly involves filling/sanding etc. Some will build the entire kit before painting, some paint as they go - it depends on the individual and sometimes depends on the subject (eg. open topped vehicles).

Do I need to mix the paint with thinners first to use in the spraygun?

Almost certainly yes. Even if your airbrush is capable of spraying unthinned paint, the actual application may be too heavy and will likely result in a rough, pebbly finish (sometimes referred to as "orange peel") *tip - do a search on "orange peel" Actual thinning ratios will depend on what sort of effect you're trying to achieve and are very much an "individual preference" thing, but general rule of thumb suggests thinning to approximately the consistency of milk.

*If you do a search on "thinning ratios" you'll find a huge number of opinions.

Do I need to do an 'undercoat'?

This is a matter of personal choice - some people do and others don't. *tip - do a search on "primer" and "priming"

Phil_H wrote:

Do I need a 'spray booth'? If you're not going to be building a lot of models then it really isn't essential. As long as you're working in a well ventilated area it should be fine.

I'm going to disagree, rather strongly, with Phil on this, although the crux of the matter is how "well ventilated" is defined. There are stop-gaps that are adequate until you can obtain an adequate spray booth, but they are far from being good solutions—they are only adequate.

There are two considerations that must be understood:

1. Aerosolized solvents and particulates are much more readily absorbed by the body.
2. The source of solvent vapor is not only during actual painting, but during cleaning, when you will be spraying and otherwise using much more solvent.

Of the stop gaps, perhaps the most practical is a large breeze box in a window, immediately adjacent to where you are spraying, and an organic vapor respirator.

A good rule of thumb: If you can smell paint or solvent, your ventilation is not adequate. If you can smell it outside the room where you are working, your ventilation is nonexistent.

Acrylic paints should be considered only slightly less hazardous than enamels, as they often contain alcohols and other, more exotic organic compounds, (including the binder and pigment) none of which you want to breathe.

Always remember that legally, a product can be labeled as "non-toxic" until proven beyond an unreasonable doubt to be toxic. Toxicology research can only test hundreds of compounds in a year. In any given year, thousands of new compounds are invented. Just do the math.

And nobody has the faintest clue about the toxicity of any of these materials in combination with other potentially hazardous materials to which we are exposed every day.

 Think of it this way: If you are not exposed to it, it doesn't matter how dangerous it is. What does a single visit to your doctor cost, without insurance? About the cost of a decent spray booth, that's what.

Fantastic guys - thanx very much!!

Cheers

Zombee