badger 150 boo boo

The back lever should appear as a curved spring with a tab at the top which aligns with the trigger slot. The wider circular bottom part should have a hole in the middle through which the needle passes. The bottom section of the back lever is wider than the slot that it inserts into, so it has to go in sideways, then you turn it to the correct position (only the top of the tab protrudes through the trigger slot).

Note that the trigger and back lever can only be installed with the needle removed. If it doesn't seem to go in correctly,  ie there doesn't seem to be enough space to insert it and the trigger, then you can unscrew the tube shank a little to get it to fit. (Sometimes it feels like you need 3 hands to get it to sit in properly)

If it is different to the configuration in the parts diagram, can you post a pic?

Here a "new" back lever. Looks much like my civil war issue 150 did.

Man, is it ever hard to get a closeup with a cheapo point and shoot digital! 

This is the most troublesome thing to put back, as Phil says a third hand would come in, well handy. Here's what I do.

Remove the trigger and back out the tube shank a little, the needle tube (50-011) gets in the way. Then lower the back lever into the slot that runs perpendicular to the body and “hang” the “T” in the wide slot that the trigger sits in. Then lower the trigger making sure the needle slot is facing the right way until it can depress the air valve. You’ll feel the spring in the air valve pushing back on the trigger. Then tighten up the tube shank so the needle tube pushes against the back lever. Then carefully thread the needle through everything, tighten up the chuck and you’re done!

Thanks for the help.  Still no success, but I am sure it is just my lack of dexterity.  My back level must be the 50-042a as oppossed to the 50-042b that is pictured since it lacks the "T" above the post which I have decided must aid considerably in the process.  I appreciate the feedback and cannnot express in family friendly terms what a frustrating experience this is (my poor A-20 Havoc will never get painted at this rate).

whoo hoo I finally got it! Thanks again for all of the help.  Only have one left over part.  Time to track where where this little hollow screw thingy goes.  Eight modeling days left before I have to pack it up again.

centerdeck wrote:

whoo hoo I finally got it! Thanks again for all of the help.  Only have one left over part.  Time to track where where this little hollow screw thingy goes.  Eight modeling days left before I have to pack it up again.

The only two parts I can think of which resemble this description are:

•  the spring retainer (50-031 "Spring Screw") which has a knurled ring at one end and is threaded on the outside, and
• the needle lock nut (51-010 "needle chuck"), which is threaded on the inside.

50-031 screws into the end of the tube shank (50-030)

51-010 screws onto the end of the needle tube after the needle has been inserted and is seated in place.

I think it must be the equivilant of 50-010.  I does not look like the diagram but that is pretty much the only place it will fit.  I think my re-assembly needs some tweaking.  I managed to make this a single action airbrush.  The air part works by pressing straight down, but the foreward to rear (or vise versa) only gets adjusted once without having to take off the rear cover and manually pushing the tube foreward.  It screws into the the tube although it is threaded on the outside.  Okay the springback problem is now fixed until I put it in the tube.  I think the problem is that I may have not gotten the back lever seated correctly.

Ok, it sounds like we're almost there.

If your back lever is topped by a semi-circular tab which sits in the trigger slot, it should be barely protruding from the slot and should be snug against the back of the trigger shaft through the entire range of the trigger's fore/aft travel (and may bot quite be visible at the "full back" posiotion).

When you draw the trigger back, the action should be smooth and the spring resistance should be consistent through it's entire range of travel. If there is any binding or notchiness, the back lever may not be properly seated as you suspect.

Unscrew the tube shank (without removing the needle) until there is no spring tension against the trigger/back lever. Hold the airbrush with the tip down and lightly jiggle the trigger (the back lever should fall snugly against the trigger) Slowly screw the tube shank/needle assembly back in until there is spring tension against the trigger and test the action. Hopefully this will sort it out

I should have just posted this last night. This is a "new" parts lists, but still shows the old handle.

Is this the same as the illustration you have? 

I think this puppy is going to work now.  It works great without air or paint... I guess it would be better to say it appears to be functional.  It will be a good many hours before I can test it but I would like to thank everbody again for the help.  Phil, the next time I am in the land down under I will buy you a cold frothy beverage.

bgrigg, i think that is the parts list i have.  I am sure this airbrush will serve me well if only for the good karma aspect of it.  I think that it had been gutted and the tube used for other purposes.  Now that it is an airbrush again it will relish in the opportunity to prove itself.  Pretty high expectations for an inanimate object...maybe...but at least if  I can't get it to work right I can say that it was ruined by its previous suspected misuse.  By the way, like the toilet.  Think I'll buy one for the future in laws.

Cheers

Sounds like it's good to go. 

Forgot to mention earlier...

One more thing to check - Make sure the needle is fully seated. Loosen the needle lock nut, push the needle in as far as it will go and retighten the lock nut.

 

Hey! What about the land up over?
 

Tube used for other purposes? The mind boggles. The only thing that comes to mind is crack pipe, which is a pretty bizarre thing to use an airbrush for. Mind you, crack is pretty bizarre.

Airbrushes are actually pretty simple things, and if you can't get it to work properly, just send the whole thing back to Badger. They will assess the damages, rebuild the brush and give it a factory fresh tuneup. The cost would likely be minimal, and probably well worth it.

Have you replaced the head washer P/N 50-055 or the needle bearing P/N 50-046? The needle bearing is best installed by the factory.

The toilet was a mistake. I had used that image in another forums posting and it was still on my clipboard when I went to paste the parts list in. I don't know why it created the double post I edited the link right away. Now I'm trying to delete the post! 

I was thinking a meth pipe, but to be honest I don't even know if meth is something you smoke.  I have not replaced anything on the brush, just put the pieces parts back together.  Sorry, I am morally obligated not to offer a Canadian a frothy beverage due to the torment of that ugly period in history when Brian Adams dominated the pop charts.  I know it was a long time ago, but we Americans are still awaiting an officail apology.  I do appreciate the help though.  Now I am trying to figure out how to rig this brush up to my cheesy testors compressor.  I can see what my nest investment will be.

Crystal Meth can be smoked, so there you go. 

Okay, consider this an official apology. We are very sorry about Bryan Adams, and Celine Dion while we're at it. I'll also extend an apology for the music of Shania Twain, but not for the way she looks! While I'm at it, I'll apologize for William Shatner, and especially David Frum!

You're on your own with the compressor. I'm guessing that it's not a standard 1/4" NPT fitting. I have absolutely no experience with it, other then it's cheesy.