Starting to understand the finishing process (I think)

A lot of views, but no comments. Am I to take that to mean that I have it mostly correct? This just cannot be.

Here are my comments:

1. I typically don't use primers, but I do make sure that the mold release agents are washed off the surface and I give the styrene a final wipe with Isopropyl Alcohol before painting. I DO use primers when painting light colors on dark colored styrene, and also paint aircraft fuselages with Tamiya AS-12 Aircraft Silver which works much like a primer. I do that with the idea that any scratches will show the "natural" color of the fuselage.
2. "Some" acrylic paints don't require thinning, but it most cases they still benefit from thinning, even if it's very minor.
3. Using appropriate thinner is very good. Tamiya can be thinned with Isopropyl Alcohol, which in turn can benefit with the addition of acrylic retarder. I tend to stick with their thinner.
4. I use Windex with Ammonia. Actually I use Zep brand Concentrate with Ammonia, which apparently is no longer sold. That came in a gallon jug and makes enough for 30 gallons! It will likely last me years! They do make a Refill window cleaner with Ammonia, which is less than half the price the Windex brand refill sells for. It's considerably cheaper than using Isopropyl!
5. No comment required.
6. Careful with this, some decal solutions are vinegar based. Vinegar's key ingrediant is Acetic Acid which can attack the Future coat and cause hazing. Sometimes it doesn't, and sometimes it does. For this reason I use only Micro-Set and not Micro-Sol.
7. No Comment required.
8. No Comment required.
   
9. No Comment required.
10. I've only used Future mixed with Tamiya Flat Base, and haven't required any thinning thus far.
    

Thanks all. Couple of questions:

Bgrigg wrote:

Here are my comments: 1. I typically don't use primers, but I do make sure that the mold release agents are washed off the surface and I give the styrene a final wipe with Isopropyl Alcohol before painting. I DO use primers when painting light colors on dark colored styrene, and also paint aircraft fuselages with Tamiya AS-12 Aircraft Silver which works much like a primer. I do that with the idea that any scratches will show the "natural" color of the fuselage.

Just curious, is it still necessary to wash the surfaces if I intend to use primer? Granted, I'm sure that it would be the optimum approach, but washing just adds one more opportunity for me to stag small parts and rip them off the model with the wash cloth.

Bgrigg wrote:

2. "Some" acrylic paints don't require thinning, but it most cases they still benefit from thinning, even if it's very minor. 3. Using appropriate thinner is very good. Tamiya can be thinned with Isopropyl Alcohol, which in turn can benefit with the addition of acrylic retarder. I tend to stick with their thinner.

Duely noted. The acrylic retarder may be a good idea for me as well, as it would help me get better coverage over and around small detailed parts/areas without overapplying.

Bgrigg wrote:

4. I use Windex with Ammonia. Actually I use Zep brand Concentrate with Ammonia, which apparently is no longer sold. That came in a gallon jug and makes enough for 30 gallons! It will likely last me years! They do make a Refill window cleaner with Ammonia, which is less than half the price the Windex brand refill sells for. It's considerably cheaper than using Isopropyl!

Any cheap window cleaner with ammonia. Got it.

Bgrigg wrote:

6. Careful with this, some decal solutions are vinegar based. Vinegar's key ingrediant is Acetic Acid which can attack the Future coat and cause hazing. Sometimes it doesn't, and sometimes it does. For this reason I use only Micro-Set and not Micro-Sol.

I purchased the Micro-set solution, so I should be ok here. It really was a toss-up for be between the two, not having seen any significant difference between the two from what I had read (more than one person had mentioned that they could be used interchangeably), but I just finally decided that a "SETting" solution seemed more appropriate for my needs than a "SOLution" solution.

Thanks for the feedback!

Mist086 wrote:

I always clean my brushes and airbrush when using acryls with windex or windshield fluid.  other than that you got it down pretty much

Does the typical windshield washer fluid contain ammonia, or do you not worry so much about there being any ammonia in your brush cleaning solution? I know windshield washer fluid is really inexpensive and would be a good alternative to Windex and Isopropyl alcohol.

Rich.Carpenter wrote:

Mist086 wrote: I always clean my brushes and airbrush when using acryls with windex or windshield fluid.  other than that you got it down pretty much Does the typical windshield washer fluid contain ammonia, or do you not worry so much about there being any ammonia in your brush cleaning solution? I know windshield washer fluid is really inexpensive and would be a good alternative to Windex and Isopropyl alcohol.

The key to cleaning brushes and airbrushes when you're using Acrylics is the amonia.  Amonia will break down and disolve acrylic paint faster, easier, cheaper and safer than anything else.