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Badger 100LG Acrylic Problems

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  • Member since
    August 2007
Badger 100LG Acrylic Problems
Posted by ben1227 on Sunday, September 2, 2007 12:28 PM
I'm back AGAIN! I was spraying Model Master Acryl gray primer, Just like last time, and I wiped the tip with Windex and it doesn't do anything for tip dry. Paint would not come out, there was primer all over the needle, i cleaned the needle, cleaned it again after every time it clogged, and so on. My airbrush is flooded with primer on its insides, paint got into the air valve, and I don't know how. Its also in the trigger mechanism and past that...
.:On the Bench:. Tamiya 1/72 M6A1-K
  • Member since
    January 2007
Posted by IYAAYAS on Sunday, September 2, 2007 2:27 PM

Are you able to spray windex or water through it?

you most likely have a clogged tip. 

a small wire ran through all the little holes on the tip may help.

or you could be lazy like me and buy a whole new tip.

  • Member since
    May 2005
  • From: Left forever
Posted by Bgrigg on Sunday, September 2, 2007 3:37 PM

How do you do this? Acrylics don't dry that fast!

Windex isn't going to help tip dry. If anything it will accelerate the tip dry. Windex is mostly water with Isopropyl Alcohol, which is why it drys streak free when used as window cleaner. The alcohol dries very fast.

 

So long folks!

  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, September 2, 2007 4:24 PM

Im not familiar with badger 100LG AB. I have an old badger AB that I have been using  for priming my model kit but I am not having problems.  I clean mine using lacquer thinner.  I dont know if your AB is made of composite materials, metal and hard plastic.  If your Ab is all metal you dont have problems using lacquer thinner for cleanning your AB when it is clogged with dry paint.  Another reason why your paint isnt coming out too well is maybe the pressure in your compressor is too low I suggest that you adjust the setting of the pressure of your compressor..  secondly maybe the mixture of your primer paint and thinner is not right.  I am suspecting that your primer paint is not properly thinned.

for best result when using acrylic paint that are water based thinned it with 95% isoprophyl alcohol and when you are using thinner base acrylic paint use Mr. Color thinner or Tamiya thinner to achieve best result.  My method for priming is I use the mixture of Mr. surfacer 1000 and lacquer thinner. 

  • Member since
    August 2007
Posted by ben1227 on Sunday, September 2, 2007 4:48 PM
I need to post a picture with my answer to this, by the font/HTML/color/font size/picture bar isnt there!
.:On the Bench:. Tamiya 1/72 M6A1-K
  • Member since
    August 2007
Posted by ben1227 on Sunday, September 2, 2007 4:53 PM
wow..why won't the picture/tool bar show up?
.:On the Bench:. Tamiya 1/72 M6A1-K
  • Member since
    August 2007
Posted by ben1227 on Sunday, September 2, 2007 4:57 PM

.:On the Bench:. Tamiya 1/72 M6A1-K
  • Member since
    August 2007
Posted by ben1227 on Sunday, September 2, 2007 5:00 PM
OK paint got into parts #51-011     50-030     50-044    50-031    51-010    50-042    50-019    50-0342    and 50-013.     -Also, to clean it, I can't unscrew part #50-0381. That back portion of the tip is too hard to unscrew, I've never been able to.
.:On the Bench:. Tamiya 1/72 M6A1-K
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, September 2, 2007 11:03 PM

Okay, one more time.  If paint is getting into the air valve and trigger area, you've either got a bad needle bearing or you are trying to clean your brush with the needle removed.  The only way paint gets back there is through the hole that the needle passes through.  The needle bearing seals that hole so that only the needle gets through and not the paint.  If you remove the needle and clean the brush, paint and/or thinner can leave the top cup and flow back into the brush.  At this point, you need to remove the air valve and soak the brush in lacquer thinner because it sounds as though paint has gunked up the innards.  If paint is in the air valve itself, you have to get a small allen wrench and unsrew it.  The air valve seal is probably toast but they are cheap. The rest can be soaked.  Make sure you dry everything out before reassembling and replacing the air valve seal.

 

E

  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, September 2, 2007 11:10 PM

Read your last post more thoroughly.  If you've tried to unsrcrew the tip, you may have damaged it or the needle tip.  Badger makes a three cornered reamer to remove the tip without damage.  A new head assembly cost about fifteen dollars.  To clean it the head assembly, you can remove the whole thing and soak it as a unit.  Also, a good set of cleaning brushes is worth the investment.  HTH

 

E

  • Member since
    August 2007
Posted by ben1227 on Monday, September 3, 2007 9:39 AM
Alright...I have a feeling i need to replace some O-rings and seals because they've been dissolved by the thinner I've soaked it in. I'm looking for that reamer...
.:On the Bench:. Tamiya 1/72 M6A1-K
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