Problems with Testors enamel

One was the bottle was full almost to the top, second was the paint was super thin, almost like water. When I thinned it to airbrush it was so thin it wouldn`t cover, ran off of the high spots and I had to use a ratio of much less thinner than normal to get it to stick. This left some spots with a little heavier build up than normal and is taking much longer to dry.

The only reason for thinning paint is to get it to flow through the airbrush.  If it's already thin then don't reduce it any more.  There is no such thing as a "Normal" thinning ratio, just thin the paint to the point that it will airbrush properly.  In your case you reduced paint that was already too thin, with the result that it was FAR too thin. 

DCV wrote:

This is leaving me with a couple of questions. Is there something in the pigment of blue paint that causes it to be harder for manufacturers to get a mixture correct or consistance?

 No. The two bottles of paint you bought were defective. In the first case, either insufficient solvent was added to the manufactured paint, or the paint lost solvent between the plant and your workbench. Most likely the latter. In the second case, there was too much solvent. This can happen at the end of a production run if the paint was not properly mixed in the main tank during filling operations, or it can happen at the beginning of a run if the cleaning solvent used between runs was not completely flushed out of the lines before the next run was started. You should have returned that one, too.

DCV wrote:

And do I dare chance leaving my painted model in sunlight in hopes of completely drying the paint I was able to use without danger of warping or melting the whole thing?

No. Too little control over the temperature. Your best choice is to strip the paint and start over. You may be able to get the paint to cure by forced-air drying. Put the model in a large cardboard box with holes in the top, and put a 40W lamp in the box. A safer arrangement is to put the model in an open sided box with a low-flow fan blowing into it. Put a 100W bulb between the fan and the box, NOT in the box. 

Good luck! 

DCV wrote:

Is there something in the pigment of blue paint that causes it to be harder for manufacturers to get a mixture correct or consistance?

I've certainly seen similar things in other Model Master enamel colors.  One bottle on Sand was thinned much as your described your bottle of Dark Sea Blue.  It wad far too thin to use with a paint brush, but it airbrushed beautifully: no thinning required.  A second bottle of the same color was of a more normal consistency.

I've also had paints that were more like that way you described you Flat Sea Blue, having a consistency being thicker that that of very heavy cream.  Whe that happens a little paint goes a long way, with a drop or two providing enough pigment for a quarter or third full color cup of thinned paint.

One moral of the story is that the concept of a "thinning ratio" is usually meaningless.  Always look at the paint you have and use thinner as needed to reduce it to proper airbrushing consistency.  The paint may work fine out of the bottle or it may need several parts thinner to one part paint.

DCV wrote:

And do I dare chance leaving my painted model in sunlight in hopes of completely drying the paint I was able to use without danger of warping or melting the whole thing?

I wouldn't do that.  I probably would just set it aside in a dust free area and wait as long as it takes for it to dry.  Once dry, you can decide what needs to be done. 

Andy