enamel primer and acrylic paint???

Friendly New Guy

Dato

My airbrushed Aztek acrylic cracked over Testors enamel primer. Letting the enamel primer dry several hours wasn't enough time, probably. Perhaps a high humidity indoors (fog outside) played a role in the dry time. Just coated with Testors satin lacquor dullcoat and may airbrush over it, once cured.

So far, I've had better luck airbrushing Vallejo without a primer, though it'll peel when masking if not sealed first with Testors satin lacquor dullcoat. Nothing, not acrylics or enamels, stick to Testors gloss lacquor.

I'd like to spray Vallejo's acrylic primer and then spray Vallejo's acrylic paints, but the acrylic primer gummed up and jammed my Badger 105 airbrush. I may try to shoot the primer at a higher psi.

On a good note, my projects are already weathered before I go to weather them.  :D

 

 

Uh.... you do realize this thread was posted 13 years ago, right?

My airbrushed Aztek acrylic cracked over Testors enamel primer. Letting the enamel primer dry several hours wasn't enough time, probably. Perhaps a high humidity indoors (fog outside) played a role in the dry time. Just coated with Testors satin lacquor dullcoat and may airbrush over it, once cured.

So far, I've had better luck airbrushing Vallejo without a primer, though it'll peel when masking if not sealed first with Testors satin lacquor dullcoat. Nothing, not acrylics or enamels, stick to Testors gloss lacquor.

I'd like to spray Vallejo's acrylic primer and then spray Vallejo's acrylic paints, but the acrylic primer gummed up and jammed my Badger 105 airbrush. I may try to shoot the primer at a higher psi.

On a good note, my projects are already weathered before I go to weather them.  :D

QUOTE: Originally posted by huskerguy I have looked thru several pages and cant find anything about using a Testor rattle can enamel primer, and then putting on an acrylic paint. Can it be done?? i am ready to airbrush

I've posted on this a couple of times. The bottom line is that I've had great results using Testor's spray enamel (flat light grey) with Tamiya Model Master acrylic paints. Following advice I've read elsewhere (and echoed above) I let the enamel dry for a week or so before I started spraying the acrylic with my airbrush.

Waiting for the primer to dry worked out pretty well 'cause I had to do some additional sanding after I sprayed it.

I really like having the primer. The bottom of my plane is white, and I initially had a hard time getting the white to lay nicely on the bare plastic.

Regards,

-Drew

Sorry, guys, but I've had great results with automotive acrylics painting over enamel from rattle cans - but I probably cheat - I spray the paint into my airbrush jar and spray it on (thinned) - I almost never spray right out of the can.
Even though the hot thinners of the acrylic can eat enamel, I spray a good coat of enamel primer, let it fully cure, then dust on a very thinned coat of the acrylic color coat. Let that dry completely, then dust on another, then another, then move onto wet coats, allowing full drying time between.
I guess the secret is to lay down several thin coats and allow to dry to act as a barrier before nailing the model with a wet coat.
One reason I use acrylics so much is that there's a huge array of auto-touch-up cans around with some amazing colors, including the bright whites needed for most airline liveries.
The acrylic dries very quickly and dried very hard, and one benefit is the stuff really seems to lay down (or get much thinner) as it dries. I've painted heaps of cars and planes like this and never had a tragedy. I've painted a car with about 10-12 thinned coats of acrylic, and the overall paint thickness is still thinner than a decent enamel coat.
An added bonus is that with the paint drying so quickly, you can rub off dust specks and hit the model with a tack-rag before the next coat (all before the paint turns to concrete in your airbrush).
Another bonus is the fact you can then use high quality automotive polishes to get a "wet look" shine. I use Meguiars' - bloody expensive stuff, but it's the best, and a normal bottle will last for years (if you keep it away from the car in your garage).
Give it a try
Cheers,
LeeTree

I agree with Swanny. Just remember to have each layer sufficient time to cure or dry before applying the next one.

Fire away with the airbrush then.

Layering paint:
Put down any Lacquer paints FIRST
then use any enamels then
use any acrylics

As long as paints go on in that order you will not have any trouble. It doesn't matter if it's from a rattle can or an airbrush.