please make my mind up for me :)

Airbrushing a model is no less art than airbrushing a t-shirt or a hood of a car.  Art is an expression, nothing more.

With that said, I own 2 Iwatas for the sole purpose of modeling.  I have an Eclipse BC-S, which is a bottom feed that I use for large scale applications like primers/base coats and Future.  I also have a Revolution BR, which is a gravity feed that I use for everything else.

The Eclipse cost me about $130 (US), the Revolution was $60, plus I purchased an additional 3mm nozzel for fine work.

Iwatas are the cadillacs of airbrushes.  They're dual action, internal mixers.  You're not going to get better paint atomization from any other brush.

I say, get the Revolution, you won't be sorry.

-Fred

JMHO...I would get some experience with a cheaper brush, learn how to PROPERLY use them, then invest in a more expensive A/B.

Otherwise, your frustration will build, and might cause you to lose intrest all together.

IYAAYAS wrote:

JMHO...I would get some experience with a cheaper brush, learn how to PROPERLY use them, then invest in a more expensive A/B. Otherwise, your frustration will build, and might cause you to lose intrest all together.

I can attest to wat IYAAYAS said...I have a Badger 100LG, internal mix double action, as my first airbrush...It's very nice, sprays nicely, but I'm just kinda wishing I would have gotten a Badger 200, single action. Just saying, if you have the money, get a 200 series badger to learn with. I wouldn't classify that as a beginner only brush. I'd go buy one right now....And then buy something nicer. I can't say much about iwatas, they're good, but where i live Badger parts are more easily found. I've found myself frustrated more than once, even though most of it is my fault, a single action would simplify repairs. My new head assembly cost me $15, just because of a dumb mistake...I didn't know what the wrench was for and used pliers instead. Talk about frustrating. Take your brush apart and learn your way around it when it isn't covered in paint...I've learned it all the hard way, & I hope you don't have to...

I am glad a couple of you say that the Badger 200 is a good buy, as I just picked one up today. I looked at a few different A/B's, thought this would be the best of both worlds. I had other air brushes before, a Testors S/A cheapy that was great to lay down primer and base coats, a cheap Badger rip-off called a "Beaver" how blatant, Nice D/A brush until I dropped the tip on a concrete floor.

Tomorrow I play with my new toy

I'm the guy who tried to get Ben to buy a 200-20, but he got ensnared by the shiny color cup of the 100LG.

The 200-20 (note there is a big difference between the 200NH and the 200-20) isn't really a "beginner" airbrush (there really isn't such a thing), but a very good detail brush. It's slightly easier to use than the 100LG primarily because you can lock in the needle position and just vary the air pressure to achieve your desired effect. With the 100LG you vary both the needle and the air pressure, which is harder to use.

My advice is to get a brush like the 200-20 and learn it in and out before stepping up to another airbrush. The fact of the matter is, once you've got the spray booth and compressor, ponying up the dough for a second airbrush is not much more than two decent kits. That's my advice anyway. I didn't take that advice and started with the Badger 150, moved up to the 100LG and have just recently bought the 200-20. I wish I had done it the other way.

Supraman, be careful with that 200-20, it doesn't have the "crown" spray regulator most dual action brushes come with. The needle is exposed to the world and is very vulnerable. I back the needle out of the tip before putting it away in storage. 

More data is needed. What type of paint do you plan to use? You said you mostly wanted it to overspray a masked area. From what you said it dosen't sound like you intend this to be for models. You didn't say how much paint you expect to use at one setting.

 Because you are masking, a gravity fed is not an issue. It appears you are not blending and shading ao very fine atomization is also not required. That said here are my humble recommendations.

1.  Bottom feeds:  Badger 200-20.@ $50,   Iwata Revolution SAR @ $60,  Paasche VL set @ $ 90.

2. Gravity feeds: (if you don't plan on using much paint) Iwata Revolution CR @ $ 65.

Prices from Dixie Art Supply web site.

Bgrigg wrote:

I'm the guy who tried to get Ben to buy a 200-20, but he got ensnared by the shiny color cup of the 100LG. The 200-20 (note there is a big difference between the 200NH and the 200-20) isn't really a "beginner" airbrush (there really isn't such a thing), but a very good detail brush. It's slightly easier to use than the 100LG primarily because you can lock in the needle position and just vary the air pressure to achieve your desired effect. With the 100LG you vary both the needle and the air pressure, which is harder to use. My advice is to get a brush like the 200-20 and learn it in and out before stepping up to another airbrush. The fact of the matter is, once you've got the spray booth and compressor, ponying up the dough for a second airbrush is not much more than two decent kits. That's my advice anyway. I didn't take that advice and started with the Badger 150, moved up to the 100LG and have just recently bought the 200-20. I wish I had done it the other way. Supraman, be careful with that 200-20, it doesn't have the "crown" spray regulator most dual action brushes come with. The needle is exposed to the world and is very vulnerable. I back the needle out of the tip before putting it away in storage.

Yes, and I'm still enjoying my shiny color cup while I'm waiting for that new head assembly to come! My modeling has stopped without my airbrush though, I don't know what I did without it. Glad to hear you're getting one. Just take your time, and USE the wrench they provide you with to remove the head assembly! Ask Bill (Bgrigg) about that story

Dunnynnud,

I take your in Aus? If so take a look at the range of airbrushes from runway 13 - I've got to of them, both are ab-134's. I've sprayed lacquers, enamels and acylics through them with great results. You can get them from www.runway.com, or www.themodellerschoice.com .

Smokey