Model Mater Aluminium Paint

Are you doing Revell's 1\48 B-29? If you have an airbrush, go with Alclad. It's simply the best NMF I say...

www.squadron.com

They carry all of the Alcald line.

Or,

www.hawkeyeshobbies.com

They've got all the SNJ and some new Talon series acrylic NMF's that look nice.

 

Which MM aluminum? Metalizer or regular bottle paint? The Metalizers always dried very quickly for me but be it the buffing or the non-buffing I always had some of the paint rub off some. This doesnt mean it's not dry, just a nature of the beast. The bottle paints always take more time to dry. I used to use MM chrome silver for NMF before I discovered Alclad but it takes at least an entire day to dry and I normally let it set for a week before masking.

About masking, one can mask the Metalizers but only if it's coated first. I've only used the Metalizer sealer and it works well and does not change the appearance of the paint finish. As someone else mentioned if you try to mask the bare paint it will pull the finish everytime. Once I discovered Alclad all the NMF problems were solved for me. Dries fast, looks good and can be masked without worry.

You may have addressed this somewhere else, but would you consider Alclad? Either the Polished Aluminum or Airframe Aluminum give stunning results and if you let it cure for a few days you'll be able to mask.

 

I don't think I've ever seen an aluminum enamel paint (be it MM, Testors (small bottle), Humbrol or even Krylon) that will let you mask over it w/regular masking tape - pulls up the finish every time.  So if you have other colors to apply, make sure you apply them prior to your silver finish.a (that alone almost makes Alcad II look worth while).

I airbrushed MM aluminum on the same model and got acceptable results. Just don't rush the coats and dry time as particulary with any non flat paint. I think alclad would be better, but it is more money.

This is a surprisingly common problem with aluminum colors. It generally has one of two causes:

Old paint. Aluminum pigment (Almost all metallic paints are actually aluminum flake.) consists of a metal flake coated with a protectant that also helps it settle flat side down. When the protectant coating is attacked by a solvent, strange things happen to the binder, and it refuses to set.

Similar to the first, using the wrong reducing (thinning) solvent can create the same problem.

Binder-solvent combinations for metallic pigments are frequently very specific. This is one area where using a proprietary solvent is highly recommended.

Spraying thin coats of metallics is generally a good idea. However, too thin will not allow the pigment to settle flat. 

I have used the MM aluminum in the spray can and I love it. I use it for engine parts, landing gears, etc. I never have put it on as a finish coat. I would use the airbrushing version for that. But, if it's like the spray can, you can't go wrong. It gives a real convincing metal finish that you can polish up. Since it is laquer based, it will take a while (days) to completely cure, be patient. If you have to thin it, use laquer thinner and do like you said, several thin coats with about a 20 minute dry time between coats.

Andy