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Badger 200NH Questions

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  • Member since
    July 2007
Badger 200NH Questions
Posted by JButler on Monday, September 24, 2007 12:50 PM

Hi Guys,

I just tried using an airbrush that I got for free with the compressor that my wife got for my birthday.  The Badger is (I think) a 200NH single action with siphon feed.  I had OK results using Tamiya acrylics.  I don't have a manual and I was hoping that someone could direct me to a place where I could get one, or if someone could scan one for me.  I'm not sure what the two adjustments are on the back of the brush, but when I screw them in, I seem to get more pressure.  I found that my Harbor Freight compressor (1/8 HP tankless compressor with 30 PSI output) runs at about 19 lbs when spraying.  I also found that I used a lot of paint.  I think that a color cup would be handy.  Do any of you use this brush with a gravity feed cup?  Finally, how do I clean this thing?  I cleaned out the bottle and siphon with water and windex.  I sprayed Windex through the brush and then I took off the two front pieces to clean the needle.  Is this all I have to do?

Thanks for any help you can provide.  I really think this brush will help my paint jobs.  Just need a little practice, is all.

 

Johnny B 

 

  • Member since
    May 2005
  • From: Left forever
Posted by Bgrigg on Monday, September 24, 2007 6:32 PM

Johnny,

There is a 200NH and a 200-20 that are both siphon feed. The -20 version has what looks like three O-rings wrapped around the handle, and one of the adjusting rings is graduated 1, 2, 3 etc. and the -NH version just has two knurled knobs. There is a difference in the kind of head, as well.

The small knob on the far rear is used to hold the needle tightly, and the large one is the adjust the needle position. Turned all the way clockwise is the smallest line and turned all the way counter-clockwise is the widest line. Somewhere in between is where you'll want to be. That's the same for both kinds, with the -20 having a graduated scale for consistancy and a non-Crown spray regulator for close up work. The needle can extend past the spray regulator, so be careful if this is your kind!

I prefer the color cups to the bottle, easier to use, fill and clean! They are also siphon fed. The gravity fed versions have fixed cups on the body.

There isn't a good reason to remove the head for cleaning, unless you've allowed paint to dry in there! If you're using acrylic paints only, this is my routine:

Rinse the color cup out with Windex, no point in spraying windexed paint through the airbrush. I usually take the cup or bottle off and rinse out, and use a Q-tip to remove excess paint from the connection on the AB body.

I use an old bleach bottle and cut an X shape large enough to poke the head of the airbrush into about 3" from the bottom to spray the cleaner into. Makes less mess this way. Take the lid off before spraying!

Fill the cup/bottle 2/3 or so full and spray until the cup/bottle is empty and repeat. Take a soft rag (or even a paper towel and carefully cover up the tip of the airbrush. You might want to pull the needle back slightly to protect it and gently spray until bubbles appear in the cup or bottle. This is called back-flushing. Then I pull the needle (loosen the small knob and pull from the rear of the brush) and check to see if it's clean. If there is paint on the needle, carefully put back and keep spraying until you don't see any paint on the needle. Then fill the cup or bottle with some distilled water and rinse out any Windex. Windex contains ammonia and that can stain the airbrush. Put a little needle lube or glycerin on the front 1/3 of the needle and put back. You now have a clean airbrush. 

Badger will send you an instruction manual, though they're pretty light in information. I've got the 200-20 and I can scan those instructions for you. PM with your email address, as I can't send attachments through the FSM mail system. You might be better off contacting Badger as below: 

Badger Air-Brush Co.

9128 W. Belmont Ave,

Franklin Park, IL 60131

Phone (800)AIR-BRUSH or (800)247-2787
Phone (847)678-3104
Fax (847)671-4352

For general information please E-Mail info@badgerairbrush.com

 

 

So long folks!

  • Member since
    July 2007
Posted by JButler on Monday, September 24, 2007 6:57 PM

Thanks so much, Bill!  I was hoping someone would chime in on this thread.  I can't wait to get home and spray some more.  Its pretty cool.  I'm certain that I have the 200.  There are no "O" type rings on the barrel.  I'll give your cleaning routine a try.  Two other questions:  1)  How delicate is the needle?  Do I have to be very careful handling it?  2)  My compressor is rated for 30 psi.  When I spray through it, it drops to about 19 psi.  Is this sufficient output to spray Tamiya?  I had pretty good luck last night.

Thanks again,

Johnny

  • Member since
    May 2005
  • From: Left forever
Posted by Bgrigg on Monday, September 24, 2007 7:36 PM

The needle is extremely delicate. A bent tip on the needle can ruin the head of the airbrush by causing the tip to split. It's also very sharp! Handle with care!

I use Tamiya exclusively and spray between 15-20psi when using a siphon fed brush. So you're just about right.

MusicCity (Scott) has a webpage full of helpful information, admire his work, then scroll to the bottom of the page for tips on thinning, cleaning and more.

Montana Cowboy (Christian) has a great tutorial on airbrushes which is hosted by Swanny (Matt) on his excellent website. One of the brushes he uses is the 200NH, and it's dual action brother the 155 Anthem.

So long folks!

  • Member since
    August 2007
Posted by ben1227 on Monday, September 24, 2007 8:14 PM
 Bgrigg wrote:

The needle is extremely delicate. A bent tip on the needle can ruin the head of the airbrush by causing the tip to split. It's also very sharp! Handle with care!

I use Tamiya exclusively and spray between 15-20psi when using a siphon fed brush. So you're just about right.

MusicCity (Scott) has a webpage full of helpful information, admire his work, then scroll to the bottom of the page for tips on thinning, cleaning and more.

Montana Cowboy (Christian) has a great tutorial on airbrushes which is hosted by Swanny (Matt) on his excellent website. One of the brushes he uses is the 200NH, and it's dual action brother the 155 Anthem.

Bill said it all...

.:On the Bench:. Tamiya 1/72 M6A1-K
  • Member since
    July 2007
Posted by JButler on Tuesday, September 25, 2007 12:01 PM

I just wanted to say thanks for all the info.  The links provided are very informative.  This is a great site and I appreciate the help.

JB

  • Member since
    May 2005
  • From: Left forever
Posted by Bgrigg on Tuesday, September 25, 2007 12:52 PM
You're very welcome!

So long folks!

  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: Southern California, USA
Posted by ABARNE on Tuesday, September 25, 2007 2:28 PM

Johnny,

In case you're waiting for Badger, here's a link to some Badger 200NH instruction scans, although aside from the parts diagram, there's probably nothing overly relevant that Bill didn't cover.

http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v624/ABARNE/Instructions/Badger%20200NH/

I have the same airbrush which I use for all my enamel painting, and it is a very nice airbrush: easy to use and quite capable.  With the adjustment knob turned in and your airbrush close to the work, you can get lines that are narrow enough for almost any modelling situation.  When you open up the needle, you can spray very wide patterns for putting down base coats on anything.

Your 19 PSI should be fine for anything you're like to do.  I typically spray at about 15 PSI, maybe down to 10-12 PSI for extreme detail or up 18-20 PSI for wide base coats.

The color cup is definitely the way to go, easier to clean and you need to mix less paint.

On cleaning, I'll second Bill's recommendation there.  Contrary to popular mythology, you DON'T have to spend an hour disassembling the airbrush after every use.  On the other hand, if you are wanting to clean it a bit more thoroughly than a spray through cleaning, but would prefer not to fully remove and replace the delicate needle, you can split the difference by unscrewing the head (PN 51-071) and removing the conical tip (PN 41-004).  When I do this, I do back out the needle a bit so that it is not projecting beyond the tip.  I then use an old paint brush to brush out the paint chamber, and clean the needle and the tip.  

Andy

  • Member since
    July 2007
Posted by JButler on Tuesday, September 25, 2007 2:58 PM

Thanks Andy.  Those scans are helpful.  I don't think that I'm giong to go back to spray cans anytime soon.  Its a pretty magical moment, spraying your first body.  I keep looking at the bottle and the body, hardly believing that I got the paint from there to there! 

One bit of advise I can pass on to people who have questons about airbrushing and which airbrush to get -- buy a brush from one of the reputable manufactures and use it!  I read many, many posts on airbrushing before I gave one a try, but once I actually got a brush and sprayed something, many of my questions were answered. 

 JB
 

  • Member since
    May 2005
  • From: Left forever
Posted by Bgrigg on Tuesday, September 25, 2007 3:13 PM

You said it, Johnny!

There is a big leap from wanting to do it, talking about doing it and actually doing it. Airbrushing is both very hard and very easy. The hard part is convincing yourself that you need to spend the time and money to get one. Using one is actually pretty easy.

Using one well, now that's a different story! Big Smile [:D]

So long folks!

  • Member since
    July 2007
Posted by JButler on Tuesday, September 25, 2007 8:27 PM

Alright, guys.  Here is a pic of my airbrush.  Is this a 200NH?  Now, I'm not so sure.  Can anyone confirm this?  There is no number on the brush. 

Thanks,

JB

  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, September 25, 2007 9:17 PM

Nope - that appears to be the 200, before the change to the NH.  A fine airbrush.  Actually uses the same head/tip as the 100 and 150 series. 

There should be markings on the spray regulator (the front end of the AB) that will give you an indication of the size (they make 3, fine, medium, heavy) - I think the "IL" is the medium, but don't quote me on that - someone here will have more detail.

 My 200 is quite old - 30+ years, looks like this:  They haven't changed all that much..

 

 

  • Member since
    May 2005
  • From: Left forever
Posted by Bgrigg on Tuesday, September 25, 2007 9:38 PM

That's definitely the "old" style head 200. An excellent brush.

The instructions Andy posted will cover most of it, but the parts list will be ever so slightly different. I prefer the "old" style head to the new, but it's an arguable point. The new head was supposed to eliminate the need of switching needles and head assemblies, but I've noticed Badger now sells a "fine" head and needle combo for the NH model.

This is the parts dio for the 200G which is the gravity fed version. Everything except for the actual body will be the same as your model:

 

 

So long folks!

  • Member since
    July 2007
Posted by JButler on Tuesday, September 25, 2007 10:22 PM

OK ... so I have a 200.  Sounds good.

Tonight, I realized that my compressor doesn't have a regulator!  It has a guage, but no regulator.  (This is the box.)  I guess I have to go to Harbor Freight to get one this week.  I've seen you guys recommend regulators which have fine adjustments.  Anyone have a specific recommendation?

Once again, my wife and I appreciate your help.  (She's using spray cans to paint her current build, a Tamiya Repsol Honda.  BTW, she just finished our club website.  Check it out.)

JB

  • Member since
    July 2007
Posted by JButler on Wednesday, September 26, 2007 7:43 AM

OK  ...  I found a thread by Hippy-Ed and it looks like I should get the Paasche regulator from dixie art.  I think this is the correct one:  regulator.

JB

  • Member since
    May 2005
  • From: Left forever
Posted by Bgrigg on Wednesday, September 26, 2007 9:33 AM

I use a cheap one that cost less than $10. You can get them at Harbor Freight or places like that:

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=90590

I'm sure the more expensive ones are very nice, but the price difference buys a kit!

Besides you've already have a moisture trap on your compressor, right? 

So long folks!

  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Wednesday, September 26, 2007 11:37 AM

Go do a search for Norgren B07  (that's zero seven) on a well-known big auction site.. 

I did, and bought 4.  One for me, one for my son, one for a friend, and a spare.  

 

 

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