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Acrylics question

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  • Member since
    August 2007
  • From: Souther California
Acrylics question
Posted by rong on Thursday, September 27, 2007 1:49 PM

Like many of you I've jumping back into A/C modeling after a couple of decades lapse.  So much has changed but thanks to this forum I've gotten a great deal of helpful info in an attempt to get back in the groove.

Though in my past modeling I used enamel paints I am now using acrylics and for several reasons I can not use emamels these days.  So, I've been practicing on some of my old collection of models and trying to get decent results with acrylics but the results are that the covering is as best I can describe very 'chalk' like.  Is this normal with flat acrylics or is my technique flawed?  I suspect that the paint may be drying too fast so I've ordered a bottle of retarder but maybe the chalky finish is normal...??

I'm airbrushing (badger 100GL) and thinning with distilled water.   

Help will be much appreciated.

Ron G 

 

  • Member since
    January 2003
  • From: Peoples Socialist Democratic Republic of Illinois
Posted by Triarius on Thursday, September 27, 2007 2:33 PM

You didn't say what brand of acrylic you are using, and it does make a difference in specific diagnosis of your problem.

Acrylics dry more rapidly than enamels, although they attain full cure more slowly. Basically most of what is happening to you is that the paint is partially drying before it reaches the model surface. Acrylics require slightly different techniques than enamels for application. Since you apparently are an experienced airbrusher, you know that a retarder will help. But you should also experiment with different pressures, distances, and reduction ratios to find what works best for you.

Be aware that unlike enamels or lacquers, there is no universal reducing solvent for acrylics. For spraying, it is hard to go wrong when using the paint manufacturer's proprietary thinner, some of which already include a retarder (e.g., Tamiya). However, the stuff is outrageously expensive. Some acrylics do well when reduced with deionized or distilled water (e.g., Polly Scale), others require 90% isopropyl alcohol (e.g., Tamiya, Gunze Sangyo). Reducing ratios also vary from brand to brand (hence my initial statement) and sometimes even within a brand. Using the wrong reducing solvent can also cause the type of problem you report (and many others that you really don't want to learn about the hard way!)

Oh, and in case you've forgotten (I did.) mix the retarder with the reducing solvent first, then add it to the paint. 

Ross Martinek A little strangeness, now and then, is a good thing… Wink

  • Member since
    August 2007
  • From: Souther California
Posted by rong on Thursday, September 27, 2007 2:44 PM

Triarius,

Thank you for the helpful info.  Primarily I am using Tamiya but also have a few Polly bottles.  So I will take your advice and try with the Tamiya thinner which I do have one small bottle of in addition to your other reccommendations.  I've only been at this for a few weeks now so still lots of skill building and knowledge ahead of me.

Thanks for all the pointers.

Ron G 

 

  • Member since
    May 2005
  • From: Left forever
Posted by Bgrigg on Thursday, September 27, 2007 3:16 PM
Once you've used up that bottle of Tamiya, only buy the large 250ml bottles as the little ones are quite dear in price. Acrylic retarder and isopropyl alcohol is a cheaper alternative.

So long folks!

  • Member since
    August 2007
  • From: Souther California
Posted by rong on Thursday, September 27, 2007 4:35 PM

Thanks, I'll get the isopropyl alcohol.

Instead of building up any more models to the painting stage, I'm going to just pull out a wing and/or a fuselage from my old stash and paint until this is solved.  I've done three partial builds over the past few weeks and every paint job has been a problem.  Oh well, it's been time well spent anyway just getting back in the swing of things. 

  

  • Member since
    May 2005
  • From: Left forever
Posted by Bgrigg on Thursday, September 27, 2007 6:32 PM
A reminder that Isopropyl Alcohol without retarder can cause the dreaded tip dry, where the needle builds up dried paint and plugs the airbrush, then unleashes a huge blob onto your paintjob!

So long folks!

  • Member since
    August 2007
  • From: Souther California
Posted by rong on Thursday, September 27, 2007 6:32 PM

Problem solved.  It was the solvent.  Using the Tamiya thinner instead of distilled water solved the 'chalking'. 

Thanks again all for the help.

Ron G

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