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clear coat question

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  • Member since
    June 2006
clear coat question
Posted by KennyB on Friday, October 5, 2007 12:02 PM

I build mostly aircraft and an occasional ship or armor vehicle, so my world is almost always flat in finish. A friend of mine gave me a car to build for a change of pace. I haven't built a model car in maybe 20 years. I'm really enjoying the build. I'm going to paint it with Model Master light ivory enamel. I want to get the best gloss finish possible. Should I use the Model Master clear gloss top coat, or should I spray it with Future, or maybe something all together different. Another thing is, I will be using bare metal foil for the trim, and there is a lot of it. This is a 1962 Pontiac. Should I clear over the foil, or foil after the clear coat? I'd appreciate any and all help with this.

                                                                          Ken

  • Member since
    January 2007
Posted by Gigatron on Friday, October 5, 2007 12:28 PM

Hi Ken,

I'll let others chime in as to which is the best clear coat, but I'll tell you that it's best to clear coat before you foil.  The clear coat has a dulling effect on natural metal finishes and tends to make it look plasticy.

-Fred

 

  • Member since
    August 2006
  • From: Neenah, WI
Posted by HawkeyeHobbies on Friday, October 5, 2007 1:26 PM
Do you really need a clear coat? If you paint it just like they do the real deal, a clearcoat shouldn't be needed. Prime, sand, prime, sand, paint, sand, paint...allow to cure rub out then wax twice.

Gerald "Hawkeye" Voigt

http://hawkeyes-squawkbox.com/

 

 

"Its not the workbench that makes the model, it is the modeler at the workbench."

  • Member since
    June 2006
Posted by KennyB on Friday, October 5, 2007 2:15 PM
Fred, you just might have something there. I never gave it any thought (duh). I've already primed it a few times after sanding out defects. I used Mr Primer 1200 thinned, my favorite. What you suggest is what I will do. Paint, sand, paint and rub out. Thanks, Ken
  • Member since
    January 2007
Posted by Gigatron on Friday, October 5, 2007 2:38 PM

 KennyB wrote:
Fred, you just might have something there. I never gave it any thought (duh). I've already primed it a few times after sanding out defects. I used Mr Primer 1200 thinned, my favorite. What you suggest is what I will do. Paint, sand, paint and rub out. Thanks, Ken

 

Actually, that was hawkeye that gave you that tidbit, but, all real cars since 1992 do recieve 2 clear coats after the paint.  The clear coats contain a UVA and UVB protectant to keep the paint from fading.  Up until 1989, car recieved just gloss paints.  From 89 to 92, it was hit or miss as it wasn't mandatory to use protective clear coats.  Some manufacturers did, some didn't.  In 92, every manufacturer used clear coats on top of the paint.

And most pro and semi-pro restorers I know, give their classics 2 or more cloats of clear to protect the finish.  So to give your model a clear coat wouldn't be 100% incorrect.

I'd use Future as it's the easiest to deal with and besides a high gloss shine, it'll also offer protection for the paint job.  You can get high gloss from the sand/paint method, but you're still left without a protective coat.

-Fred

 

  • Member since
    August 2006
  • From: Neenah, WI
Posted by HawkeyeHobbies on Friday, October 5, 2007 4:19 PM

The one real hard thing to accomplish using Future is keeping it from orange peeling.

Clearcoating on modern cars is primarily a means to keep the car looking new, since most Americans love their cars but hate to take care of them. The clearcoat keeps that just waxed look, and the UV additives does keep the color from fading. On a model, if you use a good automotive wax, you'll accomplish the same thing. Adding too many layers of paint and clear only fills in any of the subtle details.

Once you polish out the paint, the wax will give it great depth. It is also a handy excuse...honey I gotta wax the car!  The scale one that is...just try not to talk to it when she is around, you may end up living in your real one! Wink [;)]

Gerald "Hawkeye" Voigt

http://hawkeyes-squawkbox.com/

 

 

"Its not the workbench that makes the model, it is the modeler at the workbench."

DHM
  • Member since
    September 2007
Posted by DHM on Saturday, October 6, 2007 7:45 AM
 HawkeyeHobbies wrote:

The one real hard thing to accomplish using Future is keeping it from orange peeling.

 

I don't think future sprays very well.  Just use a wide, flat brush and brush it on. 

  • Member since
    June 2006
Posted by KennyB on Saturday, October 6, 2007 9:06 PM

i appreciate the feedback. I think that I will paint as planned. Wet sand with a very fine paper. Then paint again. If it looks good after that, i will buff it out and see what the paint looks like. After that i will decide if i need a clear coat for a better shine. thanks.

                                                                                         Ken

  • Member since
    August 2007
Posted by ben1227 on Saturday, October 6, 2007 10:38 PM
 DHM wrote:
 HawkeyeHobbies wrote:

The one real hard thing to accomplish using Future is keeping it from orange peeling.

 

I don't think future sprays very well.  Just use a wide, flat brush and brush it on. 

I have to say airbrushing Future is the best. There was an article on it in the latest FSM issue. It doesn't need to be thinned, and it's more convenient than brushing for me.

.:On the Bench:. Tamiya 1/72 M6A1-K
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