Color cups on bottom feed airbrushes?

Bgrigg wrote:

MikeV wrote:  Bgrigg wrote: What? You don't have a 200-20? I'm shocked! Shocked I tell ya!  You'll probably find it redundant compared to your 100LG. I find it easier to use, but I don't have your experience and skill. It's a darn nice airbrush, though!  I do now, the UPS man just came. So, squirted anything with it yet?

Not yet, been busy today with "honey-do's"

MikeV wrote:

Bgrigg wrote: What? You don't have a 200-20? I'm shocked! Shocked I tell ya!  You'll probably find it redundant compared to your 100LG. I find it easier to use, but I don't have your experience and skill. It's a darn nice airbrush, though!  I do now, the UPS man just came.

So, squirted anything with it yet?

Bgrigg wrote:

What? You don't have a 200-20? I'm shocked! Shocked I tell ya!  You'll probably find it redundant compared to your 100LG. I find it easier to use, but I don't have your experience and skill. It's a darn nice airbrush, though!

I do now, the UPS man just came.

H3nav wrote:

IMHO, the Badger 200, all things being condidered, is the best single action brush out there.  My second choice would be the Paasche H.   E

Thanks for the input H3nav, I am looking forward to trying it out.

 

 

IMHO, the Badger 200, all things being condidered, is the best single action brush out there.  My second choice would be the Paasche H.

 

E

Bgrigg wrote:

LOL I don't think I talked him into it, but he did realize that he has an odd number of airbrushes (which puts the world off balance) and lacked a single action. I'll be eagerly awaiting his review!

LOL I don't think I talked him into it, but he did realize that he has an odd number of airbrushes (which puts the world off balance) and lacked a single action. I'll be eagerly awaiting his review!

H3nav wrote:

What's even greater about this brush is that you've talked MikeV into getting one!

No, I am just curious to try a well made single-action airbrush.

 

Bgrigg wrote:

Is that a life long evaluation?

Why yes it is.

Funny, I thought about doing the same thing with the PPS conversion on my old style 200.  However, the price of the handle and the adjustment knob make it just as cost effective to buy the whole brush from Bearair or Dixie.  Go ahead and get the fine needles, as you know, the ergonomics of the 200 make it a joy to use.  I actually prefer the feel of the 200 over the 100lg or 150.  What's even greater about this brush is that you've talked MikeV into getting one!

 

E

Thanks for the information, it is kind of you to offer, but I am aware of all that. I know full well what the screw forward of the trigger is for, but I DO find it easier to dial in the line thickness and mash down the trigger on the 200-20. The preset helps only in making sure your line gets no thinner, but there isn't a stop on the aft end to prevent me front making the line too wide.

I'm quite the Badger nut, and am familiar with the majority of their products, their differences and especially their similarities. I currently am the proud owner of a 100LG, 150 and the aforementioned 200-20, along with a fine, medium and coarse head assembly and their attendant needles. I ordered spares of the 200 needle in medium, but didn't get fine one. Silly mistake, since I can easily convert the 200 to a fine head using the extra pieces I have. The PPS is very nice, and I find it simpler to remember to set it to 1.5 than it is to remember 1 2/3 turns.

If Badger would make a needle with an additional 3/8" length, I could attach the PPS handle to the 100LG and use is like a large cup single action!

I wasn't aware that they are using the trigger from the Omni/Vega line. In appearance it looks similar to the ones on the 100/150.

Bill, you can get consistent fine lines with the 100 or 150 by using the needle adjust knob that is forward of the trigger.  It basically presets the needle for line width and paint weight the same as you would on the 200, only from a different direction.  It is simpler and cheaper to do this vs. the Iwata preset handle method which limits needle travel for line limiting. The 200-20 is basically the old style 200 with an enlarged trigger housing to accomodate the trigger from the Omni/Vega line.  The PPS, although very nice, is just an adaptation of the needle adjuster that was on the back of the 200.  It's metered to take out the guess work of the line width, i.e., no more test shooting to verify the line.  The actual needle is the same time tested one that I started with almost 30 years ago.  It's the same "calibre" of the one from the 100/150 IL series except that it's elongated to accomodate the total length of the 200 ( hence single action ).  The original 200 should not be confused with the 200NH which uses the Anthem needle.  The total breakdown of the Badger family is quite interesting from a marketing point of view.  They cover the total spectrum quite well with brushes that overlap capabilities depending on personal tastes and genres. Iwata, on the other hand, concentrates the majority, although not all, of it's brushes to a specific market looking for that style of brush. Case in point, there's no Iwata external mix brush nor is there an equivalent to the Badger 250 Basic Sprayer.  HTH.

Is that a life long evaluation?

I'm interested in hearing your report, specifically comparing it to the venerable 100LG. I'm finding it easier to get consistant fine lines with the 200-20. I am using medium heads/needles in both. If I had been cleverer I would have ordered a fine needle for the 200-20 when I ordered mine, as I already have the head assembly. 

Bgrigg wrote:

MikeV wrote: [ I sure am hearing a lot of positive praises about the 200-20 on here. I am going to send Ken an email about it and ask him to send me one to try. What? You don't have a 200-20? I'm shocked! Shocked I tell ya!  You'll probably find it redundant compared to your 100LG. I find it easier to use, but I don't have your experience and skill. It's a darn nice airbrush, though!

I have a new 200-20 coming next week for me to evaluate.

Really? I knew the ammonia can stain the chrome finish black, which is why my last cleaning is with a distilled water rinse, but I never knew it would attack the finish like that. I dump used color cups in a Windex bath until I'm done for the day. They've been in there overnight before without any problems.

Windex will eat the finish off of an airbrush if you soak it / expose it for a length of time.

 

E

Distilled water won't work, at least not with Tamiya. If you're going to Bear Air get some Createx Retarder (P/N 840043 $4 for 4oz), use Isopropyl Alcohol to thin with and add a DROP to the color cup. 4oz will last a LONG time. If you bought Regdab or Meadea Super Lube, you can smear some on the color cup and the front 1/3 of the needle. This helps with cleanup and also with tip dry.

The 200-20 has a cut off regulator, and so doesn't allow build up of paint that will dry in place. Tip dry will likely be a thing of the past if you follow the instructions above. I know I never have problems with it. 

I don't know what's eaten off the finish on the Badger? It probably won't affect the performance of the brush, but send an email to Badger and confirm (info at badgerairbrush dot com). This is why I use acrylics only, clean up is a cinch with Windex, and no harm to the airbrush.

It will probably work but remember that Windew is mostly just isopropyl alcahol with a bit of ammonia and blue color so I don't think it will be any btter, and it may actually be worse.  I haven't tried this and I'm not a chemist so I can't say for sure but you can try it. 

Ok, but I've had BAD problems with tip dry. Alcohol evaporates quickly, would that accelerat tip dry? Does windex work ok?

If you have any isopropyl alcohol, thin it with that.  Tamiya paints don't like water very much.  I suggest buying some of their thinner, it has always worked well for me. 

I think it's time for a 200-20 ...Off to Bear Air!   ...Bill, I don't have any Tamiya X-20A acryl thinner on hand. Would distilled water work? I only have X-20 lacquer thinner in the 250ml jug. Would using Windex to thin Tamiya paints be more likey to cause tip dry than just using distilled water? I don't want another model master gray incident and have to soak it in lacquer thinner again.

Also, on the inside of the 100LG color cup, it's like paint and thinner has eaten away the chrome covering. I can feel a ridge inside the cup. Down in the bottom  part of the cup, the chrome is gone and there's gold/brass color showing.

 

H3nav wrote:

It's on the website.  Look under new products.  HTH.   E

LOL! I've never even bothered to look there! It even took me while to find the link for it! Thanks for pointing that out. I wonder why websites do that? I mean, I can see why you would have a "new products" page, but why not update both pages? 

It's on the website.  Look under new products.  HTH.

 

E

archangel571 wrote:

*I heard 3155 is a 155 with finer needle and float head set assumed to go against iwata's BCS, never seen it in person though.

You're absolutely right. The 3155 is in the Badger catalogue, but not on their website. It's the Anthem with the finer head option. I'm sure that it's a fine airbrush, but I'll stick to my 100/150/200 series tried and true ABs! 

DHM wrote:

ben1227 wrote: Thanks everyone. I would be getting  Badger, so I don't think a Paasche cup would fit   I've used badger cups in a passche, and it worked fine, I would think it work the other way around.  There is a badger cup if you want to play it safe but it's more expensive.

Alrite, maybe it was just me then.  The paasche siphon bottle I looked at was in this cone shape and had a white paint metal cap and metal tip at Pearl.  Maybe I will bring my airbrush in next time as their airbrush stuff are all non-returnable.

ben1227 wrote:

Thanks everyone. I would be getting  Badger, so I don't think a Paasche cup would fit

 

I've used badger cups in a passche, and it worked fine, I would think it work the other way around.  There is a badger cup if you want to play it safe but it's more expensive. 

Bgrigg wrote:

MikeV wrote: [ I sure am hearing a lot of positive praises about the 200-20 on here. I am going to send Ken an email about it and ask him to send me one to try. What? You don't have a 200-20? I'm shocked! Shocked I tell ya!  You'll probably find it redundant compared to your 100LG. I find it easier to use, but I don't have your experience and skill. It's a darn nice airbrush, though!

To tell you the truth I have never, ever used a single-action airbrush in my life my friend.

I learned to airbrush with a Paasche VL double action airbrush and have used only double action airbrushed since then. I think it's time I tried a single-action airbrush so I can actually see what you all are talking about.

MikeV wrote:

[ I sure am hearing a lot of positive praises about the 200-20 on here. I am going to send Ken an email about it and ask him to send me one to try.

What? You don't have a 200-20? I'm shocked! Shocked I tell ya! 

You'll probably find it redundant compared to your 100LG. I find it easier to use, but I don't have your experience and skill. It's a darn nice airbrush, though! 

Bgrigg wrote:

MikeV wrote:  Bgrigg wrote: Ben, Trust me on this. Don't bother with the 155 or 3155 (is that a set number? It's not on Badger's website) and go for the 200-20. It comes in a boxed set with bottles and a color cup. It's the perfect companion to your 100LG and shares the same head assembly, so things like head washers and tips are interchangeable. The spray regulator is too, but the 200-20 doesn't use the crown tip and has the exposed needle so you can get REAL close.  Bill  Bill, The crown tip does not make you have to get further away from the surface, the reason for it is to keep the tip from building up paint as bad and that is all.  With those 4 open areas of the crown it helps to keep paint from building up on the head and therefore less spatter from wet paint on the head assembly. I find with the "cut-off" regulator on the 200-20, I can touch the needle to the model if I'm not careful. That allows me to get close. Too close, actually! Closer than I can with the crown tip. I realize the crown tip is supposed to reduce build up, my first 150 had the old style regulator with the holes and it clogged up all the time.

I sure am hearing a lot of positive praises about the 200-20 on here.

I am going to send Ken an email about it and ask him to send me one to try.