Remove Air-valve for a constant air flow

There's a constant flow air valve available from Badger for the 100GB which is the "bakery" edition. If you go to the Badger website and download their price list it's listed with the other parts for the 100G. As the 100LG is the same AB with a larger cup, the valve would fit.

I've never heard of a modeler requiring one, and can't imagine using one. If you're concerned about controlling the paint flow, then I suggest the 200-20 with the PPS Paint Metering System, that allows you to dial in the needle position fixing the line thickness. Otherwise the air flow is controlled by the on/off operation of the trigger.

I would also be concerned that the compressor could handle the constant running. Many people buy compressors that are oil-less and they heat up very quickly. Badger sells a Bakery compressor that maxes out at 10psi and runs between 3-5psi. Rather low for spraying model paints, IMHO.

for the compressor, I have one consisting an one fridge motor + air tank.

The question is, because I've read that is a little tricky to master the air-on, paint-on, paint-off, air off movement.Means , first push the trigger down, then back, forward and switch air off.

Again, I still didn't try it, so I dot know how difficult could be.

Thanks for the answer

Jose

Before you start taking your airbrush apart to change things, I'd recommend that you give it a try.  It's about as difficult as remembering to let go of the trigger on a water hose while washing a car.

Besides, an airbrush isn't going to work without an air valve.  If for no other reason than that's where the hose connects to.

Scott's right, it's not that hard to do.  

The Badger continuous air valve P/N is 50-0361 and it's listed in their 2007 price list at $4.75.

You don't remove the air valve, you replace it!

(Maybe if you hooked it up to a CO2 compressor...)

Bgrigg wrote:

it's not that hard to do.

I agree. The 100LG was (is, actually, i just got it) my first airbrush and you get used to it, and it'll feel better over time. I guess it'll eventually become automatic.

Just train your finger, it's not that hard.

When you get to the end of a pass with paint then move the trigger forward with the air still on and it will clean that drip of paint off the tip so that it won't spatter on your paint job with the next pass. You can also just point it off into another direction and shoot air only to do the same thing. Also remember to always hold the trigger down all the way, these airbrushes were not designed for you to control both air pressure and paint volume from the trigger.