Homemade spray booths?

If you're not routing the fumes outdoors, filtering is going to be very expensive. Normal filters are designed to capture larger particles, charcoal will filter odors. What your main concern is toxic fumes. Respirator filters can take care of this, but look at the cost. Is there no way for you to route the fumes outdoors?

As for the fan, computer style fans also come in 120v, such as is used on small reefers and wine coolers. Good luck!

AC 120v fans don't need a computer power supply. Here's an example of an AC fan and the AC plug. Simply twist the matching wires together with wire nuts and plug in.

http://www.buyextras.com/su12acfan.html

http://www.buyextras.com/6feulceacfan.html 

If you are going to continue to use enamels, I strongly suggest that you save up and buy an airbooth than has the filtration to recirculate the air. If you switch to acrylics ONLY, you might be able to get away with recirculating it through a multi-stage filter. 

Here was my solution.  I found a circular "Squirrel cage" fan on e-bay.  It was a 48v fan.  Then I found a 48v Telephone Power Supply that runs on 110v.  Then I built a housing around the fan and put a top line furnace filter in it.  The hose in the back goes to a dryer vent outside the house.  But it could be just run outside on a as needed basis.  Doesn't look very good, but I've got less than $100 in the whole thing. Counting the wood.

Bgrigg wrote:

AC 120v fans don't need a computer power supply. Here's an example of an AC fan and the AC plug. Simply twist the matching wires together with wire nuts and plug in. http://www.buyextras.com/su12acfan.html http://www.buyextras.com/6feulceacfan.html  If you are going to continue to use enamels, I strongly suggest that you save up and buy an airbooth than has the filtration to recirculate the air. If you switch to acrylics ONLY, you might be able to get away with recirculating it through a multi-stage filter.

Thanks! Thats exactly how I'll do it. So i just connect the bare leads with the wires from the fan and plug it in? Is there any way I could put a switch in that setup? If you don't mind, post  a link if you find one. Also, how many fans should I use?

Fans come in different cfm, but I would probably use 2 fans hooked up to a dimmer switch to vary speed. Normally, hot wire(+) from fan to switch, hot wire(+) from lead(cord) to other end of switch and commons just spliced together.

I apologize in advance for anything that comes out of my fingers; I'm really tired, but I feel the need to respond to this post .

1.  Did you think of doing a search on this forum for spray booth information?  Before ANOTHER sub-standard, non-efficient "booth" is constructed, PLEASE do some research.  A whole dump truck full of info has been written on the subject in this forum.  Take the time to read some of it; it'll save you some time, maybe a few bucks, but absolutely will help prevent some future headaches.

2.  If you're pressed that hard for money, scrap the booth idea, and opt for a good respirator (about $20-$25), and put some fans in the room when you spray.  Open a window (top and bottom) in your spraying area to allow for some good dilution ventilation.  Works great.

3.  You can't use respirator filters as a booth filter.  They won't work at required booth airflow speeds.  Vapors will blow through the charcoal without having a chance to adsorb properly.

4.  Computer fans won't cut it in the airflow department.  They're great for passing a little air over a chip in a 1.5 cubic foot computer cabinet, but to establish adequate vapor capture, and physically get it out of the way, you're going to need something considerably stronger.  The link provided by Bgrigg indicated the fans are rated at about 68 cfm.  Using two as you suggest is an exercise in futility.  At a bare MINIMUM it's going to require close to 400 cfm (based on a 2ft by 2ft booth).  Once you add in filtration and ducting, you've just decreased effective duct transport velocity by a fairly significant amount.

But you said you can't duct outside.  So you'll need to invest in some activated charcoal filters, and they're more expensive than a standard furnace filter (which really isn't all that efficient for paint spray operations). I would save my money and go with a good Artograph booth.  It has everything you're looking for in a booth.

5.  RandW's idea of a rheostat control on fans is great, IF you have a hoss of a fan.  The idea of using a rheostat on 2 computer fans is funny...in a pathetic sort of way.

6. I want to ask Therriman's permission to use his picture in one of the (hopefully) upcoming seminars at the IPMS Nats.  It will be used in my "What NOT to do" section.  How 'bout it, Tim?

By the way, it's "vapor" not "fume".  A fume is a particulate, typically seen as the condensation of a metal after heating, usually associated with operations such as welding.  Acids can also generate fumes (Oleum is fuming sulfuric acid.) 

Ben, do some research, and save your money so you can either buy, or build, something that will actually work the way it's supposed to.  You can either feel safe, or actually BE safe.

Gip Winecoff

There's nothing to be sad about.  Although nice to have, spray booths are not an absolute necessity in this hobby.

1.  Get a good respirator.  Mine Safety Appliances (MSA), 3M, and North Safety all make a great product.  I highly recommend any one of the three.  Get a dual cartridge, half-mask device equipped with organic vapor cartridges (has a black ring on the cartridge), and a paint pre-filter (to catch particulates).  These companies also make combination cartridges (organic vapor + HEPA, or P100) that will work, as well, and at about the same price point.  You can order on line, or check the large home improvement stores (Home Depot, Lowe's, etc.).  STAY AWAY from E-bay.  I've seen a lot of cheap, no-name brands that are, as far as I know, not NIOSH approved devices.  If you don't know what to look for, you'll get snookered every time.

2.  Learn to inspect, wear, clean, and store your respirator correctly.  I wrote a fairly lengthy post some time ago that at one point was part of a "Sticky" (where did that go, btw?).  A forum search should turn it up for you.

3.  Get a couple plain, ordinary, room floor box-type fans (Wal-Mart, K-Mart, Target, etc.).  Position them behind you at an angle while you spray.  Putting them at right angles to your work will cause unnecessary cross-drafting.  The purpose here is to a) drive the vapors away from your breathing zone, and b) to dilute the vapor concentrations.  A source of incoming fresh air, either through the HVAC supply, and/or an open window should be available during spraying operations.

4.  An airbrush surface is limited only by your imagination.  The only thing you should consider is whatever surface you spray on should be open on all sides to allow for the circulation and dilution that circulated air provides.  Do NOT spray into a cardboard box, since vapors will concentrate there and provide a source of overexposure.  You should also give consideration to having a fire extinguisher in your modeling area.  Oh, and don't forget the great outdoors as a great spraying surface... (yeah, I know, winter is upon us).

5.  Lastly, if you are dead-set on a booth, save your money and prioritize your modeling budget.  That Hasamiyamonovell super-kit you've been wanting may just have to wait...

Hope this helps you some.

Gip Winecoff

Ben,

I'm including a few links.  These are certainly not necessarily the best, and may not be the cheapest, but are intended to provide you with some information on what sorts of things to look for.

MSA cartridges for painting (organic vapor + N95 particulate): http://www.discountsafetygear.com/ovrecaformsa.html

Here's the MSA respirator with cartridges included: (This is what I have; it's excellent!)http://www.discountsafetygear.com/msaadvov.html

Here's a 3M half-mask respirator (5000 series) with OV + particulate filter: http://www.discountsafetygear.com/3m50sehamaov.html

Here's a North half-mask: http://www.discountsafetygear.com/nosihama.html  I wear this at work occasionally.  Quite comfortable.

North cartridges: http://www.discountsafetygear.com/refiforno77s.html  The combination cartridges shown are overkill, but will still do the job.  If you buy from a safety place such as this, ask if they carry cartridges suitable for painting.

(A look at the North catalog: http://www.linkpath.com/data/issuePDF/N1/1500000261-N1.pdf  shows on page 16, Cat #7581P100 a combination OV and P100 particulate filter, and on page 17, Cat #7531N95 shows a particulate filter assembly that snaps over a plain OV cartridge(Cat #N75001).  Both are suitable for painting.)

A couple things to keep in mind:

1.  Respirators are sold in S, M, and L sizes.  Typically, if you're "average" size, and have a fairly narrow nose and "average" face, then a medium will usually fit in most circumstances.  If, however, you're heavy set, and/or have a wide nose and face, a large may fit you better. If you are black and have the genetic wide nose and attendant facial structure, I have found that this respirator seems to work quite well in both the M and L sizes: http://www.msanorthamerica.com/catalog/product583.html  Of course, there are always exceptions in every case.  If you have the chance, visit a local safety supply house and ask if you can try on a couple manufacturers and in various sizes.

2.  You cannot interchange cartridges between manufacturers.  An MSA respirator cannot be used with 3M or North cartridges or vice versa.  In addition, you can't put MSA Comfo Elite cartridges on an MSA Advantage 200 respirator.  Cartridges are usually sold in pairs, or in boxes with even numbers.  When cartridges go bad, they go bad together.  Change them both at the same time.

3.  If you have questions about a specific brand and what is offered, ask someone. Buying from a safety supply house is often advantageous, because they have folks knowledgeable about the products they sell.  If you want a respirator and cartridges for painting, they usually won't try to sell you one for asbestos abatement; the liability is too great.

4.  Care and feeding:  I found the post! /forums/142964/ShowPost.aspx  Lots of good info there.

There's about a book's worth of info I could write (and I'd have a cure for insomnia!), but I don't wanna.  If you have any more questions, please don't hesitate to post 'em here!

Hope this helps.

Gip Winecoff