Replacement air tank

sizzlak wrote:

I run a regular room fan (10") blowing cool air at my compressor. It really keeps the compressor running cooler and reduces moisture in my moisture trap.

So do I.

I installed this on my Badger Million-Air compressor when I got it to help cool it.

A tank will also extend the life of the compressor as heat is what destroys them and the more they run the hotter they get.

Pulsing is only a problem with diaphragm compressors and ones like the Paasche 500 pulse like crazy in my experience.  

Your post got me searching for something to clean an airtank with, and wah lah.

http://www.por15.com/prodinfo.asp?grp=SSK&dept=1

For bigger tanks look at the Cycle Tank Repair Kit.

Again...thanks for all the info. As soon as I get to the weekend (Mon and Tues for me), I'm going to get to ordering. I need to paint. <shaking> 

I'm itching to get the Big E finished and get back to my Fletcher/first-time-PE project.

I have one of these tanks connected to my Jun-Air compressor.

Buy the gauges, a drain cock, a pop-off safety valve and you are good to go.

http://www.kmwperformance.com/products/AirTanks.aspx 

You have to tip the tank. Manufacturers do that for a reason. If the tank is dropped you don't want the drain valve to take the brunt of the impact. A fully pressurized tank dropped breaking the valve off can create serious injuries.

Another option, take the tank to a radiator repair shop. Some will acid etch out the rust then seal  it. They do it with gas tanks too. It might be a bit more expensive but if you are having troubles finding a tank, it might be one option.

Lastly, you could (if you have access to one) use a 40% off coupon from Hobby Lobby and pick yourself a whole new setup.

The info is much appreciated. The tank was on a carpeted floor (between a wall and the desk) and the compressor was mounted on top of the tank. The tank has a drain, but it is built in such a way that there can be a full centimeter of water on the bottom of the tank and it won't drain out. (cheap cheap manufacturing )

since that tank is rusted and dirty, I need a new one. That is proving not so easy.  

The compressor shouldn't have any issues filling a larger tank. Just means you'll have more volume to work with. However the compressor will need more time to fill it. Putting a water trap between the two probably is asking for more headaches. Just be sure your tank has a drain and use it frequently.

Probably the easiest way to limit the amount of water vapor being ingested into the tank is to limit what is going into the compressor. Refrigerated air dryer. Or the poor mans way is to position the compressor where the air is coolest and least humid. Warm moist air rises, cold dry air settles. Place the compressor close to the floor but not actually on it. About a foot off the floor is best. A bare concrete floor will hold moisture even if the air is 'dry'. Also, make sure your tank drain is the lowest part of your system.  

Also I do a little extra step to keep water condensation levels low in my system. I will backflush the tank with alcohol. A cup of alcohol poured into the tank, swirled around then drained out will pick up much of the water and debris. Once you get as much as you can out the drain. Start the compressor and let the air flow through the tank and out into the atomosphere. DO THIS OUTSIDE if possible AND NO SMOKING or IGNITION SOURCES within several feet of the unit. Alcohol vapors can make one hell of an explosion. After a minute or so you can button it back up and start painting again.